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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:38 am
Posts: 41
Got the Answer directly from Look:

First the rotation of the blade 2 is a little hard because of the seal. The rotation will become smoother after some ride. Do not forget also that the spindle have two spring rings for eliminate the lateral play.
Also the blade 2 is balanced, the blade one was not balanced and the other pedals with metallic spings pull the lever downward.
I advise the customer to engage and release the pedal when the feet is in lower position. It is easier. When the pedal is at the top , the ankle can turn enough for an easy release of the cleat.

Christian Caplier
Look Warranty Department


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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:34 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:17 pm 
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Posts: 97
That sounds like a fairly high-friction design.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:22 pm 
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The seals are actually very low-friction and smooth. It is just that the pedal itself is so light and evenly balanced that there is no reason for it to hang in any particular direction.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 2:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:03 am
Posts: 620
Location: nyc
I saw a pair in box last weekend (16nm) and the finish, quality when hand held was impressive, I know it doesnt necessarily mean much, but as someone with experience with LOOK pedals for past decade or more these felt really promising. Beautiful design and construction at least to the touch/eye. When 20's come out I may take the plunge...unless...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:12 am 
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 983
Location: France
I am using a 16nm pair for a couple of weeks now, a few comments.

- They are a pain to clip in and out of, mainly due to pedal not returning to a neutral position. These are definitely not a pedal to use if you are clipping in and out regularly such as on a commute. However if you only clip in once or twice per ride they are great.
- The carbon spring is more vulnerable to damage than on the previous Keo Blades. Occasionally when clipping in blind you will find you go to clip into the wrong side of the pedal. When this happens your cleat will rub against the carbon spring, it is not recessed and so is vulnerable to damage. If there a small stone trapped in the bottom of the cleat all the worse. I clip in and out with my left foot, my left pedal spring already has scratches after a couple of weeks. My previous Keo Blade did not suffer from this. ( I will try and take a few photos )
- Occasionally when clipping out I seem to require a much greater torque to release. Quite unnerving as it can momentarily feel that you are trapped in the pedal. Still, better than clipping out inadvertently and it is probably down to bad technique on my park or a semi worn cleat.

Otherwise great pedals!

- Pedal platform feels noticeably larger.
- When you are clipped in you feel very securely attached to the bike.
- Seals look better and good enough to prevent water ingress to the axles.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:52 pm
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I have had the Look Keo Blades for about 6 months now and noticed that the bearings have finally started to break in. The pedals are now almost returning to the neutral position.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:04 pm 
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Posts: 620
Location: nyc
jdwertz wrote:
I have had the Look Keo Blades for about 6 months now and noticed that the bearings have finally started to break in. The pedals are now almost returning to the neutral position.



Talkign here about Blade 2's...original Blades had durability issues more than anything else..

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Always look much better than Shimano


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:50 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Staffs. UK
I have a couple of pairs now, I bought a pair to try and although the spinning round does frustrate the hell out of me the platform is every bit as good as the blades I had before.

Personally I wouldn't have upgraded if it hadn't been for the fact the my second pair of the originals blades has split at the casing at the rear, a common fault, but you never know when it is going to happen and unfortunately it happened to me on the 3rd day of a 400 miles ride from London to Paris the long way round.

I sent a pair back to Wiggle and they credited me and so I replaced with the new ones.

As I say, if it wasn't for the cracks in the housing of the original blades then I see no benefit or reason to change, but the casing looks much stronger than the original so hopefully less of a chance of splitting.

I just hope they ease up as after a 100 miles it is still frustrating to have to look down to make sure you try to click in the correct side.

BTW they did click but a little grease at the front of the cleat lock-in stopped that.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 5:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:02 pm
Posts: 27
maquisard wrote:
I am using a 16nm pair for a couple of weeks now, a few comments.

- Occasionally when clipping out I seem to require a much greater torque to release. Quite unnerving as it can momentarily feel that you are trapped in the pedal. Still, better than clipping out inadvertently and it is probably down to bad technique on my park or a semi worn cleat.


I have this same issue on the 12nm version. I find the pedals occasionally very difficult to release from. They certainly take much more effort and a wider twist than DA 9000.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:03 am
Posts: 620
Location: nyc
I find w original Blades there is a noticeable difference in clipping in/out depending on cleat wear, newer cleats snap in and out of them so much more securely and cleanly than when they are worn down even just a bit, hate to keep replacing them but the difference is quite noticeable. When they are worn the engagement becomes more blurry and seems needs more twist to remove foot but with less force, newer cleats require slightly more force but snap in/out faster (or with less twisting needed). No idea if this is same for Blade2 but its a noticable difference between original Blades and Keo HMTi that i also use on another bike.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:50 pm
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Location: Staffs. UK
Had a real mare with them on a ride yesterday and the cleats are quite new, you feel like a total beginner trying to clip in when pulling away from lights etc.


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:47 am 
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Location: nyc
Seem like something you will get used to and then it will be normal again or not?

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 8:22 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:50 pm
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Location: Staffs. UK
gitsome wrote:
Seem like something you will get used to and then it will be normal again or not?


I doubt it, still an absolute nightmare clipping in.


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Just my opinion, but I am actually finding them easier to clip into than the DuraAce I came off of (but not nearly as easy as the Speedplays that I also used)

If you are used to pedals that hang consistently, like DA, the Blade 2 seem to require a whole different philosophy. I just step accurately down with a very slight forward motion of the foot to clip in. DA, etc, are more like "catch it with your toe and push forward". For some reason (coordination problems) I found DA very frustrating to clip into and could rarely get it to work the first try. With the Blade 2, I have a pretty high "no-look" success rate, because the pedals don't spin, they just stay at the same angle when you clipped out.

Still not nearly as idiot-proof as Speedplay, but every pedal system seems to have strengths and weaknesses.

I have over 1000 miles on mine now, and I have never had any "difficult to clip-out" incidents. In fact the clip-out seems very light but "snappy". (Using the 16 N-m)
The clip-in and clip-out have a very audible and sharp "snap". There is never a question over whether you are in or out.


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Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:51 pm 


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