Internal cable routing Look 695

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Hi all,

Really hoping someone in this forum might be able to help me with some puzzling cable routing.

I am currently building up a Look 695 (with dura ace 9000), and now looking to fit the internally routed rear derraillear cable.

Frame came with thin cable tubing in downtube, which comes out the bottem with spare 10-15cm of cable. There is then a seperate cable tube in chainstay, again with spare 10-15cm of length - and these two lengths are just taped together.

What I do not understand, is why its not just one tube for the whole length?

Not at all clear how I should be joining these tubes together!

I checked online and I can see that the way I have received my bike is per the norm - if you look at the pedal picture in below link you can clearly see the two tubes masking taped together:
http://www.gearbuyer.com/products/look_cycle_695_sr_i_pack_frameset.html

Many thanks for any help! Best Tom

5 8 5
Posts: 1353
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Location: UK

by 5 8 5

I'm building a TT bike up at the moment with a similar setup. The difference is the two cables tubes don't actually join. Not sure what the difference is. The chainstay tube loops around the BB shell. The downtube tube stops short somewhere in the downtube. Your setup sounds better for feeding the inner cable through the downtube.

If the tube was one piece, it could have a detrimental effect on shifting when the cable is under load.
In two pieces they are secured at either end and are able to move when the inner cable moves.

by Weenie


lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Hi, thanks for your note - the setup of your TT bike would make more sense to me. For mine the cable tube on downtube is too short to feed into chainstay tube, and vice versa, which means they will have to join outside of the frame, which I guess means more risk of dirt getting into the tubes. Any ideas on how to join the tubes outside of the frame?!

Image below shows what it currently looks like:

Image

Thanks again for your help!

lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Or, should I just cut both the chainstay tube short, leaving a gap of exposed wire between bottom bracket and chainstay, and not worry about it? Thanks Tom

5 8 5
Posts: 1353
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Location: UK

by 5 8 5

See what you mean

Image Image

The "join" in the above looks like it's in the chainstay which would make sense.

Check this thread out for more info. http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90915

Wait (different timezones etc) for more knowledgeable people to respond before cutting!

5 8 5
Posts: 1353
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Location: UK

by 5 8 5

I've tried unsuccessfully to find a good pic showing the cable run from underneath.

It might be worth having a look (pun intended) in the gallery section. There are quite a few 695s in there.

lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Thanks for your note, appreciate your taking the time and thats useful - based on this, I'll leave it overnight to see if any previous 695 owners post have any other recommendations, and if not will go for leaving 1 cm exposed gap between the two lengths, with gap being just before chainstay hole. Best, Tom

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Tumppi
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Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 9:41 am
Location: FINLAND
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by Tumppi

If you want sealed system for cable, just cut the cabletubes for right lenght, then you can join the tubes together with plastic coverpipe like Nokon cable systems has to offer:
http://fcdn.roadbikereview.com/attachme ... edium-.jpg
And voila! I did this trick to our teambikes.

bmxbandit
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:47 pm
Location: UK/Industry

by bmxbandit

I've built over a dozen 695's, the reason its not one length is that each section is flared at the stop end so it doesn't pull through, I try to cut them such that the two liners meet perfectly under the small cross section in the bb cable guide. It''ll take a couple of attempts and a little patience but it's worth it as you inner is then very well weather proofed.

lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Thanks all for the advice, was very helpful, in the end I tried to cut it so was continuous, covered by small cover on bottom bracket cable cover, on rationale I can always cut a 1 cm gap if I have any probs later on.

The bike shop I bought it from originally forgot to include the chainring bolts for the Zed 2 crank, I chased this and yesterday I received them but they are Rotor bolts with the Look spacers, rather than Look bolts. I don’t care for the principle, but practically, the female bolts barely petrude beyond the inner chainring. Whilst they screw together fine, and I’ve done them reasonably tight, I am nevertheless a bit concerned as to their strength like this. However, perhaps they are same length bolts as the Look ones anyway – anyone know?!

Best, Tom

bmxbandit
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:47 pm
Location: UK/Industry

by bmxbandit

Which rings are you using? Ideally they should be completely flat where they meet the spider for maximum engagement on the bolts. Though I do feel the standard look bolts are a little short and very brittle, use a little loctite and no more than 6nm torque. The standard zed female chainring bolts are 13.6mm long with the head being aprox 1.6mm deep.

lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Thanks for your note - I'm using the Look praxis chainrings, and the Rotor bolts I've been given are these ones:

http://www.fudgescyclestore.com/index.php?p=202206

They are reasonably flush against the spider, concern is the female bolt barely petrudes beyond the inner chainring when mounted - so male is certainly not screwed all the way in. Is this normal? if not any recommendations on good alternatives? thanks Tom

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mr_tim
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by mr_tim

You should insist on the proper bolts... (the bolts are known for being brittle).. if you've bought it from fudges they will come thru, just don't get messed about ..

bmxbandit
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:47 pm
Location: UK/Industry

by bmxbandit

I've not measured them, but I think the praxis rings may be slightly wider -they certainly seem a more solid ring compared to the look rings. Either way those rotor rings look too short, though its hard to tell from that link. Here's a pic of an oe bolt I took this morning
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... c41923.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

* sorry for the edit, to address the second point, you really need the proper length bolts, more engagement = better. I've been looking for a good steel alternative but no joy so far....

lighty1
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:28 pm

by lighty1

Ok, thanks for measuring, really useful. I'll chase the shop for the Look bolts, although I going to buy any alternatives I see too as dont trust shop to be timely. With regards to steel bolts, perhaps these:

http://www.alibabike.com/fr/pedaliers-v ... guard.html

Read that someone was using them on Praxis chainrings though. I've dropped an email to Praxis to ask their recommendations and will post here if they come back with anything. Best, Tom

by Weenie


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