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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:23 am
Posts: 2
Hi,

I am about to replace my internal and outer cables on my 2012 Scott Foil 40. Does anyone have a method to do this and not end up loosing the cables inside the frame?

If you remove all the outer cables and inner cables, will the new inner cables find their way to the other end? Or do you have to cut each end of the inner cable, pull off the outer cables, install the new outer cables, then tape the end of the new inner cable to the old inner cable that's still in there and pull it through?

Any one have any tips on this? From what I can find the outer cables just stop at the entrance to the frame.

(I have only replaced cables on my Felt DA which fully guided the outer cables all the way through the frame easily, with no chance of loosing cables.)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 214
You are correct, the outer cables just stop at the entrance to the frame. There are no cables inside the frame.

_________________
Scott Foil Ultegra Di2
Scott Scale 35 26"
Scott Spark LTD 29" M8000


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:39 am 
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Joined: Sat May 04, 2013 5:34 am
Posts: 40
Take the cable ferrules out from the front of the frame and remove the cable guide in the bottom bracket. Measure out your cable housing from the shifters to the insert point in the head tube, cut it and put the cable ferrules on the ends but don't put them in the frame. Run two lengths of cable housing from the head tube down the down tube and out the bottom bracket (one for front and one for rear shifting). Thread your shift cables through this extra cabling down to the bottom bracket and pull out the extra cable housing. Then it's just a matter of threading the wires through the cable guide then you should be able to tease the cable down the chain stay for the rear derailleur and up through the hole in the frame for the front. If you run into trouble trying to get it out of the chain stay for the rear derailleur you can thread another shift cable in backwards and tape the two together... just don't let the cable end get stuck in there.

I'd imagine you could do the same sort of thing with the brake cable but it's easiest to just send the brake cable down the top tube and fish it out with a bent coat hanger.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
Posts: 911
Good advice above ^^. Except, I don't cut any cables until I'm ready to actually cut them. That means, they are completely installed, tested, bars completely tape/wrapped back up etc..then cut.

As above, remove the bottom cover. The only real hassle is the rear I found, and getting it to pop out the hole for the RD.

Also, you might want to use a little metal pick tool with a hook, that helps on the bottom area when the cables won't just pop out. You can reach up and pull the cables down through the BB area then feed them to the appropriate areas from there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 2:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:23 am
Posts: 2
Awesome instructions thanks guys. Received my new cables, bar, and tape so will start replacing them tonight. I'll let you know how I go.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 3:47 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:54 am
Posts: 23
Location: Sunny, FL
cookieater wrote:
Awesome instructions thanks guys. Received my new cables, bar, and tape so will start replacing them tonight. I'll let you know how I go.

How did this work out for you? I'm about to do it on our FOILs.

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