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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am
Posts: 166
Plan to build my own wheel set with these rims. Here's my potential build list for it:

UL66 UltraLight Front Road Hub or SLF71W SuperLight Wide Front Hub
UL190 UltraLight Rear Hub
DT Aerolite or Sapim CX-Ray
No idea what nipple to use
20F/24R or 24F/28R

My weight is 150lbs.

Before proceeding to purchase everything and building up the wheels, I would like to get info and feedback concerning these rims. I've read though a majority, if not all, of threads pertaining to these rims. Found out that these rims are really a major mix cat in a bag. Some of the info are probably out of date too.

So, how's everyone's wheels so far, they're still rolling?

Out of the two front hubs I chose, which do you guys recommend?

What spoke, nipple, hub, and lacing combination are you guys using and how much you weigh(if you don’t mind)?

What tension do you guys use?

Threadlocking compound or no?

Triplet(2:1) lacing pattern possible and is it recommended?


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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:29 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:54 pm 
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ive got the 400's. I weigh 133 pounds and all my teammates who are the same size as me say the 340 is super flexy.
I got the wheels they made so I cant comment on the spokes and hubs you picked, but the wheels they made, the 400s, are pretty damn nice. ie. stiff and light.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 9:22 pm 
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I got the early, lighter 340's and wrote about the build up. So, you may have seen it. Here http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=97281

Possibly I got a bad pair. Certainly had gripes about the radial hop at the joint on one, and rough braking also because of the poor joints.

After the initial settling in and retensioning, they have stood up. I'm 200# and already had light 32H hubs, so that's what I used laced 3X. So, over a year now, and on pretty crappy roads.

Because the rims are so light, i'd go with the higher of your 2 choices for spoke count. Definitely brass nipples for the rear DS IMO. Don't remember the tension too well except that mine were high.

Oh, and I took off those really fugly labels. The horror.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 10:38 pm 
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There is a thread about the 340 some place : )

I have build a dozen or two wheels, so I am not an expert. However me and everyone i built them for are still riding them after many years: ) so at least I have a "sort of idea" what I am doing. Also I know how to read : )

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd ... 0960723668

http://www.bikeschool.com/store/Products/UB-GSBOOK.html


I couldn't get the hop out and the brake surface wasn't flat.( 1st time in over 20 year I have felt a brake pulse)

I had bought two so I found a local builder with good "street creed" and asked him to build up the 2nd one. It was better but still not good enough both and hope and brake surface. In that thread there was a pix of a tire stretching the braking surface out about 1/2 inch, and more than 5 people have reported tires blowing off. I stopped using the 340 and will replace with a DT rim.

To the punch line, not worth the risk of injury at 60 mph to save the weight.

C


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 11:34 pm 
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I have 3 pair of 340 wheels from Stan's. I think you should look at their forum and ask the guys who work there the method they use to build. I think they add some thread locker or sth. I've had both the pro and comp builds. One pair I beat the crap out of them in CZ on some rough mix of paved and dirt roads. All the wheels survive til now and over 15,000km on these as trainers and no blow offs or flats at all - use the tubeless tires. Regular clinchers suck for these rims imo. The kevlar beads stretch, while the carbon bead in quality RT tire will not stretch and blow off.

Regards


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 12:05 am 
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Stan's site is another thing. Little to no help at all on the road bike side. @tinozee may have a point as they had absolutely zero info on using road tubed tires. personally I'm using PR3's tubed and I've been OK. But I recall another thread where a certain brand of tires was not recommended.

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 2:16 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=3&t=114273

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=108048

I love this board, than you everyone for participating !!!!! : )

C


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 2:33 am 
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Thanks for the info guys. No idea how I missed the tire blow off thread. Now these rims are kind of putting me off more and more. If I decide against them, what would you guys recommend as a replacement? Looking to go under 1300g for the wheelset or at least no higher than 1350g.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 1:46 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
MNX1024 wrote:
Thanks for the info guys. No idea how I missed the tire blow off thread. Now these rims are kind of putting me off more and more. If I decide against them, what would you guys recommend as a replacement? Looking to go under 1300g for the wheelset or at least no higher than 1350g.


I'd use the Kinlin XR200 20f and 28r if the weight is a super high priority.

But if you just want to go fast, the Pacenti SL23 (20f, 24r) is probably a better bet.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 8:14 pm 
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Weight isn't a super high priority. Just that I'm currently using the Soul S2.0 and they weigh in at 1326g. Currently using those as a bench mark in terms of weight and performance. Would like the wheelset I'm building to be under 1300g, but wouldn't mind it if it's around my Soul S2.0 though. This potential built will be my everyday wheelset though.

Was actually considering the Pacenti SL24, but not sure how low in weight they can go. After reading up about them, most people have them at around 1400g and some even in the 1500's range.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 2:17 am 
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@MNX1024- You could lace Extralite SX hubs to SL23s and be under 1300 grams in a 20/24 hole count.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 2:22 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
MNX1024 wrote:
Was actually considering the Pacenti SL24, but not sure how low in weight they can go. After reading up about them, most people have them at around 1400g and some even in the 1500's range.


They are 450g rims, so you are looking at ~130g heavier than a wheelset with XR200s.

BTW, I came from riding a 1185g wheelset with the old 340s to a new one with the XC279s >1400g and it's fine. Stiffer and more stable at high speeds. Probably faster on anything but >6% grades.

The industry is missing a wide 400g rim IMO. Something shaped about like the 340, only a couple mm wider and with a real bead hook would be perfect.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Okay guys, decided on the Pacenti SL23 instead. Just purchased the rims and the BHS hubs.

Here's what my current build looks like:
[url="http://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/ulf66.htm"]UL66 UltraLight Front Hub[/url]
[url="http://www.bikehubstore.com/UL190-p/ul190.htm"]UL190 UltraLight Rear Hub[/url]
[url="http://fairwheelbikes.com/pacenti-sl23-rim-p-5634.html"]Pacenti SL23[/url]
DT Aerolite

This is what I got when I used the spoke calculator from Sheldon Brown's website.
Image
Can anyone confirm for me if I entered everything correctly and should get the following spoke length:
280MM Front
286(NDS)/282(DS) Rear

Quick question concerning the lacing for the rear. Are their any difference/advantage with a "2x NDS & DS" vs "Radial NDS & 2X DS"? Would spoke length be the same as above with either lacing patterns?

Thanks.

WMW wrote:
MNX1024 wrote:
Was actually considering the Pacenti SL24, but not sure how low in weight they can go. After reading up about them, most people have them at around 1400g and some even in the 1500's range.


They are 450g rims, so you are looking at ~130g heavier than a wheelset with XR200s.

BTW, I came from riding a 1185g wheelset with the old 340s to a new one with the XC279s >1400g and it's fine. Stiffer and more stable at high speeds. Probably faster on anything but >6% grades.

The industry is missing a wide 400g rim IMO. Something shaped about like the 340, only a couple mm wider and with a real bead hook would be perfect.


Well, I love climbing, hence I'm looking for a lightweight wheelset. I purposely take the hilliest portion of the route for all my rides.

I do agree with you, the industry is currently missing a wide 400g rim, doubt 4-6MM deeper is going to make that much of an aero advantage. Though, what do I know, I'm not any aerodynamic scientist :roll: .


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:35 pm 
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Radial on the NDS would use shorter spokes.

There is a theory that radial NDS spokes live longer because there is no torque ransmmitted though them. At the low tension that is common on NDS spokes, torque will cause the spokes to flex and eventually break. I have some wheels built each way.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:53 pm 
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Does anyone have any idea which veloplug size will fit the Pacenti SL23 rims?

eric wrote:
Radial on the NDS would use shorter spokes.

There is a theory that radial NDS spokes live longer because there is no torque ransmmitted though them. At the low tension that is common on NDS spokes, torque will cause the spokes to flex and eventually break. I have some wheels built each way.


I originally did plan radial(NDS)/2X(DS), but after talking to Brandon from BHS yesterday, he recommended 2x on both side with the UL190. Building and maintaining radial(NDS)/2X(DS) would be easier for me because I'm use to it from my Soul S2.0. Would you recommend radial(NDS)/2X(DS) for my build?


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Posted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:53 pm 


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