Hey. Sorry I didn't respond to your PMs about this stuff, but mostly the hoods I've been working on were for pre-2012 levers and it's a project that's now on the backburner.
Try heatshrink. I found it lasts much, much longer than the tube however:
-it's not the lightest (10g/each)
-getting it to look proper takes a little patience.
-you better make sure your bar wrap is perfect, it doesn't have the 'total coverage' that you get from regular hoods or the custom ones.
Below is a small tutorial for the pre-2012 SRAM hoods, but it should be a good basis to go off of with your post-2012 hoods.
I don't remember which I.D. size heatshrink that is being used, but you may be able to figure it out from the pictures. On the grid, each line is .5"
The heatshrink is 2:1.
So you take the heatshrink and you'll need to cut it so something approximately like this:
The cut on the left is a slight angle, that's the back of the hood. The cut on the right is only on the lower half of the tube. That's the front of the hood.
Use a layer or two of electrical tape to cover the various holes in the lever body. In the area of the 'bolt' hole on the top of the lever body, I stuffed that with a small piece of cotton ball and then used electrical tape to cover it. The reason you do this is because the heatshrink will form into virtually every crevice and you want the result to be as smooth as possible.
Then you take this and pull it on to your lever body. It really helps to have the handlebars as secure as possible because there might be a little effort to slide these into place. Sorry, no pics of this process... but it's fairly easy. Make sure that it doesn't fold completely onto itself, but don't worry too much about the material being folded/compressed as the shrinking action will sort it all out.
I used a heatgun on a low-setting to slowly shrink the tube as evenly as possible. I also tried to pull the front/top of the hood over the front of the lever fighting the tendency of the heatshrink material to retreat backwards. This helps a little bit.
Then I used an X-Acto type blade to carefully cut the excess heatshrink tube from the lever body, both on the top and a bit under the bottom. Getting the amount you want to leave on the underside is a matter of personal preference and might take a little trial & error.
I've found that these hoods will last about 300-400 continuous miles at worst, and definitely more than that at best. On a recent double I used the hoods extensively and I found that between the two, the left one started to get loose towards the end of the ride but the right one was still perfect. I think this was due mostly to how extensively I cut the excess off and how well I did it. I did a better job on the right-hand side, and the left one had just enough of a tear that would eventually expand and affect the whole hood. There also seems to be a rather sharp 'point' of the plastic body where it opens up to allow the lever to swing and reveals the internal mechanisms. Maybe if you file down this edge a little bit to soften it up there will be a lower likelihood of a tear showing up.
I removed both hoods and re-did them last night, but I can state that the right hood looked like it could have kept going for another thousand miles at least. The condition of the surface was really great.
Best of luck, sorry for the short response, a bit busy lately.
|| Other projects in the works.