http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-bora-o ... wheel-set/
morrisond wrote:When are 35's available?
Any idea of price?
2014 Campagnolo groups?
Moderator: robbosmans
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The wait is over!
2 x V2 batteries.
2 x V2 charging extensions
1 x V2 charger
Fantastic service from freebuys.it. Left Italy on Tuesday, arrived in Hong Kong on Thursday. The only place I could find it all in stock. Hong Kong distributors don't even know it exists yet. My enquiry was the first that they had heard about V2 EPS. So, the good news for anybody waiting the availability is that at least it is now shipping from the factory.
1 set is for a new bike build (Moots Psyclo X RSL Disc, semi built just waiting for these parts). The other set is to replace a V1 set up on my Moots Road RSL. Both are SR EPS.
Both have a PF BB30, but I am in no rush to try Over Torque. I have never had a problem with the Ultra Torque cups, I love the SR Ti cranks, and I can't flex them. Plus, I really don't like the look of that fiddly non-driveside, specific tool atachment. Somebody else can be the guinea pig for that one!
Both bikes already have the V1 control unit fitted, so I will be able to confirm/deny the interchangability of V1 and V2. I wanted to test the compatability before outlaying for 2 new control units. The lack of onboard diagnostics isn't a concern. If something isn't working, it isn't that big a deal to trace back manually. Also, I couldn't face the pain (literally!) of peeling back the lever hoods to remove the side panel to change over the shifter wires. I still have the scars from the last time and have only just stopped swearing after the experience!
I won't be drilling a hole in my frame to thread the charging cable through. Instead, I will fit the charging extension (already fitted in the open box shot below) and attach it internally to my seatpost. A bit of a pain to remove the seatpost to charge it, but that is such a rare occurence that I am not bothered, and the whole set up will look much neater. Also, it does no harm to remove the seatpost every now and again to check for moisture (not too much of an issue internally on a ti frame), and regrease the post (more of a concern with a ti frame and to seapost in terms of corrosion).
What I can confirm already:
1) It is definitely a new charging connector (so you will need a new charger).
2) It is perceivably lighter in the hand, even without scales.
3) The charging interface is really delicate. You need to align a tiny notch in both the male and female connectors, then screw down a very fine threaded lock nut. Much more delicate than V1.
3) Why didn't they just do this first time around? This lot nearly cost US$1,200! That is a ridiculous amount of money for a couple of batteries, some spare wire and a charger. Plus the US$50 for the installation tool. I know that the R&D and tooling was probably considerable, and they need to amortize it over what must be failry low production niche volumes, but seriously?!
More news as it breaks.........
This will be one of the lucky recipients. Wave goodbye to that big bulge beneath the down tube! I have a couple of small dome head allen bolts to plug the holes. At least I still have the mounts 'just in case' (of what I don't know - I can't see me going back to an external battery).
2 x V2 batteries.
2 x V2 charging extensions
1 x V2 charger
Fantastic service from freebuys.it. Left Italy on Tuesday, arrived in Hong Kong on Thursday. The only place I could find it all in stock. Hong Kong distributors don't even know it exists yet. My enquiry was the first that they had heard about V2 EPS. So, the good news for anybody waiting the availability is that at least it is now shipping from the factory.
1 set is for a new bike build (Moots Psyclo X RSL Disc, semi built just waiting for these parts). The other set is to replace a V1 set up on my Moots Road RSL. Both are SR EPS.
Both have a PF BB30, but I am in no rush to try Over Torque. I have never had a problem with the Ultra Torque cups, I love the SR Ti cranks, and I can't flex them. Plus, I really don't like the look of that fiddly non-driveside, specific tool atachment. Somebody else can be the guinea pig for that one!
Both bikes already have the V1 control unit fitted, so I will be able to confirm/deny the interchangability of V1 and V2. I wanted to test the compatability before outlaying for 2 new control units. The lack of onboard diagnostics isn't a concern. If something isn't working, it isn't that big a deal to trace back manually. Also, I couldn't face the pain (literally!) of peeling back the lever hoods to remove the side panel to change over the shifter wires. I still have the scars from the last time and have only just stopped swearing after the experience!
I won't be drilling a hole in my frame to thread the charging cable through. Instead, I will fit the charging extension (already fitted in the open box shot below) and attach it internally to my seatpost. A bit of a pain to remove the seatpost to charge it, but that is such a rare occurence that I am not bothered, and the whole set up will look much neater. Also, it does no harm to remove the seatpost every now and again to check for moisture (not too much of an issue internally on a ti frame), and regrease the post (more of a concern with a ti frame and to seapost in terms of corrosion).
What I can confirm already:
1) It is definitely a new charging connector (so you will need a new charger).
2) It is perceivably lighter in the hand, even without scales.
3) The charging interface is really delicate. You need to align a tiny notch in both the male and female connectors, then screw down a very fine threaded lock nut. Much more delicate than V1.
3) Why didn't they just do this first time around? This lot nearly cost US$1,200! That is a ridiculous amount of money for a couple of batteries, some spare wire and a charger. Plus the US$50 for the installation tool. I know that the R&D and tooling was probably considerable, and they need to amortize it over what must be failry low production niche volumes, but seriously?!
More news as it breaks.........
This will be one of the lucky recipients. Wave goodbye to that big bulge beneath the down tube! I have a couple of small dome head allen bolts to plug the holes. At least I still have the mounts 'just in case' (of what I don't know - I can't see me going back to an external battery).
Last edited by solarider on Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Done!
I will post some better photos later this week. These were iPhone in the house, so sorry for the quality. Having said that, I guess the point of the internal battery is that there isn't much to see.
Installation observations:
1) Good news! The V1 controller works just fine. Exactly how it does with the V1 battery. Set up was easy, all of the LED signals work the same. So on the face of it, there is no need to buy the V2 controller unless you absolutely have to have the diagnostics.
2) Even with the installation tool, aligning the battery with the bottle cage holes is an absolute pain in the arse! Fortunately you only have to do it once.
3) With the extension cable on the battery, you have to attach a big o-ring to the junction to stop it rattling around in the seat tube. With this in place, there isn't room down the seat tube for both the installation tool (which is quite chunky) and the power extension cable. I have a 30.9 seat tube, and it was really tight. With a 27.2, forget it. They need to make the installation tool slimmer. It is over engineered for its purpose anyway. This certainly doesn't help with aligning the battery. The junction between the battery cable and the extension cable sits very low in the seat tube.
4) The new on/off method is really neat. You attach a kind-of rubber watch strap around the seat tube at a set distance above the top bottle cage hole (marked by the EPS sticker on the third picture).
5) The bottle cage is easy to install once the battery is in place.
6) Contrary to the official Campagnolo chart, EPS works fine with a 46 tooth CX chainring. I did need to set the front mech about 2mm higher than normal, but changing is super smooth.
Now, I just need to get out and ride it to bed everything in, but so far so good!
I will post some better photos later this week. These were iPhone in the house, so sorry for the quality. Having said that, I guess the point of the internal battery is that there isn't much to see.
Installation observations:
1) Good news! The V1 controller works just fine. Exactly how it does with the V1 battery. Set up was easy, all of the LED signals work the same. So on the face of it, there is no need to buy the V2 controller unless you absolutely have to have the diagnostics.
2) Even with the installation tool, aligning the battery with the bottle cage holes is an absolute pain in the arse! Fortunately you only have to do it once.
3) With the extension cable on the battery, you have to attach a big o-ring to the junction to stop it rattling around in the seat tube. With this in place, there isn't room down the seat tube for both the installation tool (which is quite chunky) and the power extension cable. I have a 30.9 seat tube, and it was really tight. With a 27.2, forget it. They need to make the installation tool slimmer. It is over engineered for its purpose anyway. This certainly doesn't help with aligning the battery. The junction between the battery cable and the extension cable sits very low in the seat tube.
4) The new on/off method is really neat. You attach a kind-of rubber watch strap around the seat tube at a set distance above the top bottle cage hole (marked by the EPS sticker on the third picture).
5) The bottle cage is easy to install once the battery is in place.
6) Contrary to the official Campagnolo chart, EPS works fine with a 46 tooth CX chainring. I did need to set the front mech about 2mm higher than normal, but changing is super smooth.
Now, I just need to get out and ride it to bed everything in, but so far so good!
Nejmann, from above.
I won't be drilling a hole in my frame to thread the charging cable through. Instead, I will fit the charging extension (already fitted in the open box shot below) and attach it internally to my seatpost. A bit of a pain to remove the seatpost to charge it, but that is such a rare occurence that I am not bothered, and the whole set up will look much neater. Also, it does no harm to remove the seatpost every now and again to check for moisture (not too much of an issue internally on a ti frame), and regrease the post (more of a concern with a ti frame and to seapost in terms of corrosion).
solarider wrote:Nejmann, from above.I won't be drilling a hole in my frame to thread the charging cable through. Instead, I will fit the charging extension (already fitted in the open box shot below) and attach it internally to my seatpost. A bit of a pain to remove the seatpost to charge it, but that is such a rare occurence that I am not bothered, and the whole set up will look much neater. Also, it does no harm to remove the seatpost every now and again to check for moisture (not too much of an issue internally on a ti frame), and regrease the post (more of a concern with a ti frame and to seapost in terms of corrosion).
Oh sorry.. and thanks, i think i will do the same thing on my Athena EPS
Both sets of V2 now fitted to both bikes.
The CX bike was a new build, but the road bike replaced an existing V1 set up.
I really cannot understand Campagnolo's insistence on getting EPS fitted by a workshop. I am a skilled home mechanic, and found breaking the current EPS connectors, installing and tuning the new kit very straightforward. A really annoying aspect of the EPS warranty, although there are plenty of places selling EPS online, so I guess I am not alone.
Both went together without a hitch, and the V1 controller works perfectly well on both bikes. No need to change it.
For some reason (and perhaps this was practice on my part), the second build went together much smoother. Fitting the battery seemed easier.
The new PFBB30 cups on the CX are marked on the left hand cup as 'EPS'. This means that the plastic sleeve that protects the wires inside the bb fits like a glove. Previously, it did not interface with the cups at all and just rattled around.
Both bikes have now been ridden and other than looking nicer, the kit works and is instantly forgetable (in a good way - you literally don't even notice that it is there).
The cable extension stuffed in the seatpost is a completely acceptable workaround for me. I was considering drilling a hole in my seatpost, but in the end, I like the totally internal look, and as long as you switch the battery off when storing the bike, the need for chargin should be fairly low.
The CX bike was a new build, but the road bike replaced an existing V1 set up.
I really cannot understand Campagnolo's insistence on getting EPS fitted by a workshop. I am a skilled home mechanic, and found breaking the current EPS connectors, installing and tuning the new kit very straightforward. A really annoying aspect of the EPS warranty, although there are plenty of places selling EPS online, so I guess I am not alone.
Both went together without a hitch, and the V1 controller works perfectly well on both bikes. No need to change it.
For some reason (and perhaps this was practice on my part), the second build went together much smoother. Fitting the battery seemed easier.
The new PFBB30 cups on the CX are marked on the left hand cup as 'EPS'. This means that the plastic sleeve that protects the wires inside the bb fits like a glove. Previously, it did not interface with the cups at all and just rattled around.
Both bikes have now been ridden and other than looking nicer, the kit works and is instantly forgetable (in a good way - you literally don't even notice that it is there).
The cable extension stuffed in the seatpost is a completely acceptable workaround for me. I was considering drilling a hole in my seatpost, but in the end, I like the totally internal look, and as long as you switch the battery off when storing the bike, the need for chargin should be fairly low.
Last edited by solarider on Tue Nov 26, 2013 7:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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dereksmalls
- Posts: 2305
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Were you running the Campag CX groupset without EPS previously? If so what is your impression of it? What disc brakes are you running and how do they perfrom with the Campag levers?
First time on Campagnolo CX (although in fairness, it is only the chainrings). Works a treat, although the inner ring is not threaded, so I did have to buy some Campagnolo-specific chainring bolts. I have fitted 46/36 CX rings since the shots were taken (shown with 46/34 standard grey ring because I was waiting for the chainring bolts), and the shifting is faultless. Only 4 pick up ramps vs 8 on the SR grey chainrings, but the front shifting is not noticeably worse because of that (possibly because of the close ratios of the 2 rings).
The BB7 SL Road brakes work perfectly with the Campagnolo cable pull. Progressive feel, not grabby, plenty of power. I was really careful to square the ends of the cable housing to get the feel as firm as possible, but even with a full length cable run (so long that I had to use tandem brake cable rather than the standard Campagnolo stuff) the brakes feel good.
Once the cables have stretched initially during the bedding in process, they stabilize and other than pad wear adjustment, they should be pretty 'fit and forget'.
The BB7 SL Road brakes work perfectly with the Campagnolo cable pull. Progressive feel, not grabby, plenty of power. I was really careful to square the ends of the cable housing to get the feel as firm as possible, but even with a full length cable run (so long that I had to use tandem brake cable rather than the standard Campagnolo stuff) the brakes feel good.
Once the cables have stretched initially during the bedding in process, they stabilize and other than pad wear adjustment, they should be pretty 'fit and forget'.
Last edited by solarider on Tue Nov 26, 2013 8:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Causidicus
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:20 am
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Last edited by Causidicus on Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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