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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:59 pm
Posts: 88
Hi,

Hi just get a used sram red rear derailleur and checking it, i saw somethings strange on the cage motion.

Here is a video of this motion that i have putted on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhUfvDeIcQc
I'm sorry the quality is not really good, and sorry for the audio, my girlfriends was listening to some tv show.

So, bassicaly, the cage move to about 2mm from the derailleur body.
Is this normal? I also got a sram rival derailleur and this one don't do that.

Can i ajust this?

Thanks for your comment.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 10:56 am
Posts: 2673
Location: New Zealand
No...it's not supposed to do that. There is a tiny retainer screw that holds that whole part into the body. Note that yours is almost starting to pop the cage off. This is normally prevented by that screw sitting in the back of a protruding Ti axle inside the body. I suspect that this one has worn through the screw or bent the axel so that it isn't holding very well any more. Remove the small silver screw while someone holds the mechanism "unloaded". Once the screw is pulled out, you can let the cage gently unwind (carefully) then remove it for inspection. Straighten the axle if it is bent. Check the top where the axle engages is not damaged as it should jam if the axel is bent ....most likely, the axle is WORN. You can attempt a partial fix by going to a bigger gauge screw, or simply rotating the screw around so that a less worn segment of the screw is in contact with the axle (so it sits on an unworn part). Other possibility that comes to mind is that the Ti axle has come loose.
Either way.....it's internal inspection time. If that cage fails while you are riding, you could be talking Rear mech, frame, rear wheel plus crash damage....so get onto it :)

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Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 1:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:59 pm
Posts: 88
Thanks a lot for your answer,

so i have unscrewed the little screw, and here is what a have discovered.
The top of the axle is worm, and the screw too.

Is it possible to twist the axle? because basically half of the top of the axle is worn, so if i can turn it by 1/2 turn, it will be ok.
Someone knows how to unscrew the axle?

I also got a sram rival derailleur so if it's not working maybe i can take the axle and the screw of the rival.

Also, is it possible to buy these part separatly?
Image
Image
Image
Image

_________________
My 1998 Trek 5220 paint stripped 6.41Kg


Last edited by djay001 on Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
Posts: 911
Good post. This part is meant to wear and need replacing over time.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:59 pm
Posts: 88
Zigmeister wrote:
Good post. This part is meant to wear and need replacing over time.



ok but someone know where can i find it? and how can i unscrew this axle?

_________________
My 1998 Trek 5220 paint stripped 6.41Kg


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 2:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:59 pm
Posts: 91
Location: colorado
i had the same problem but a little more wear
i got close to 20,000 miles so i was not to disappointed
i just bought a new derailleur

did the seller tell you how many miles were on the derailleur?
i would ask for a refund


the wear goes a full 180° around the pin
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:48 pm
Posts: 106
I'd contact SRAM right away and see if they'll replace it or ship out a new axel...I've heard stories of SRAM going well past normal levels of customer service.

If SRAM won't help you out (which I honestly wouldn't blame them) I'd get a refund from the seller.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:59 pm
Posts: 88
thanks for the reply,

and also this is nice to see that my derailleur is not the only one with this type of wear.


For the refund maybe i will check for it, but if this is possible to change the axle, i'll prefer this options.
I got this derailleur from eBay for 50$+shipping, in the auction they said this:
•It's seen a good share of use
•Both jockey wheels are cracked
•It's dirty, but will do work!

I was ok with the cracked jockey Wheel, i may just change these for new force/rival wheels. They really said that the derailleur have seen a lot of use, maybe i can talk about the *but will do work*



Also i see a lot of tunned sram red rear derailleur with the carbon cage changed for other lighter cage, so they surely need to put the axle on these new cage. I just need to know how they unscrew this little axle.

I will ask the question on the sram red derailleur tunning subject also.

_________________
My 1998 Trek 5220 paint stripped 6.41Kg


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:24 pm
Posts: 350
after seeing this i get some questions about the cages once offered by Carbonschmiede. I thought that on this cage the axle was made of aluminium to keep the weight down. But this would make the axle diseappear after 100 miles...

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 6:48 am
Posts: 1219
Location: Central USA
djay001 wrote:
Thanks a lot for your answer,

so i have unscrewed the little screw, and here is what a have discovered.
The top of the axle is worm, and the screw too.

Is it possible to twist the axle? because basically half of the top of the axle is worn, so if i can turn it by 1/2 turn, it will be ok.
Someone knows how to unscrew the axle?

I also got a sram rival derailleur so if it's not working maybe i can take the axle and the screw of the rival.

Also, is it possible to buy these part separatly?
Image
Image
Image
Image


Doesn't all what we see here seem fundamentally wrong - a "grub" screw (as I'll call it - maybe a better name) that is run in at 90 degrees to rub against a concave surface to keep things in check. How about instead using tight tolerances and a design on such a precision "tool" that allows it to be bolted up tight at the factory and no wear/tear like this (ala Shimano and Campy). This looks like voodoo weight loss (via the design) in exchange for shaving a few grams to brag about on a spec sheet or a few dollars saved of manufacturing costs - not my cup of tea.......this seems like "walmart" design.......get what you pay for. I'm a WW but not a budget weeny........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgg-X3lVrPs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6QoVYq7BYA

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/compon ... 44619.html


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