What frame should i get?

[Skorp]

Hi!

I'm a beginner road cyclist. Been riding some DH, but most All mountain and bike trials for 10years.
I borrowed a Trek Madone 5.2 3years ago, and used it all summer. After that i really wanted a road bike.
Did not buy one until last month. Got a good offer on a Cannoncale CAAD 7 in 58cm. I'm 183cm tall. Even after changing the 125mm stem to a 90mm it feels too long. Tried my friends bikes, and the seating position is alot better on their bikes.


I've ordered a Sram RED crank used, China carbon wheels and some lighter/better brakes. These parts will go straight onto a new frame


So i want a new frame firstly, what would you recommend? I'm looking at some china carbon frames, any frame that stands out as good quality there?
Also used is a option, but its hard to choose without any experience..

[btompkins0112]

Search FM-066 on the site. There are a few recent builds you can check out. Make sure you order the correct bottom bracket for your crank or you'll be buying a new one.

EDIT: Make sure to either get fitted or measure one of your buddies frames that suits you to make sure you order the correct size frame. Cannondale sizing is a bit different than some of the others do be sure to compare stack/reach measurements. Note that in my experience it is better to go too small than too large. Good luck, and be sure to share your build process!

[Skorp]

Cheers! The FM066 looks great!
Why do i need a correct bottombracket? Since my Cannondale is English GXP threaded? And the FM066 is BB30?
is there a BB so i can use my old cranks on the Fm066?

The bike i tried that fitted me best was a Scott Foil 20 in L, 56cm. Here is a geo chart.
http://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/produ ... bCIjUDwlTA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the other bike i tried was a White RR Ultimate in 54cm (Norwegian brand) Which was heaps better than my cannondale, but i didn't feel as good as the Scott! I think the White bikes have similar quality frame to Hongfu Dengfu as they are offered with exeptional good spec for little price.

[mjduct]

That Frame is fine, save your money and get a straight seatpost, the one you have is setback.

That will "shorten" the effective top tube for you.

or better yet, go to a good bike shop and see if they can fit you onto that bike, if they can't... then start looking at another frame.

If it would fit me I would buy that frame off of you. People are always looking for CAAD bikes for backup racers/crit-crash-and-forget bikes.

[DMF]

Seatpost setback affects effective top tube, but that is no measure of frame size, which effective reach is, and saddle setback doesn't affect that one bit. In fit seat height and setback relative the BB comes first, all else is second to that.

[btompkins0112]

To answer your bb question you will be fine going GXP to BB30. I just wasn't sure if your current frame was BB30 or not. The FM 066 can be ordered in BSA or BB30 so if you want to run a GXP bb I would order the BSA version to avoid using an adapter.

[Skorp]

Is the GXP option less stiff? Weigh more? Guess the adapter i need is going to be not as good as a proper fitting bb.

I know a guy that was racing in Euskaltel, he said that my seat hight and setback was good. He recommended me to try a shorter stem.
Tried a 90*5deg stem, both upwards and downwards. No joy.

I'm not racing or riding with a gropu. Just random rides, and im not going to use my Cannondale if i don't enjoy using it. A 500dollar frame is cheap compared to me not riding

[btompkins0112]

You won't be able to feel an appreciable difference in the bb. The adapters are prone to creak and make other annoying noises, which depending on your nature can be maddening. If you want a new frame, get a new frame. Just make sure to check the stack and reach, or get a fit if you have the opportunity.

[5 8 5]

Seatpost setback affects effective top tube, but that is no measure of frame size, which effective reach is, and saddle setback doesn't affect that one bit. In fit seat height and setback relative the BB comes first, all else is second to that.

Agree with DMF. Set your saddle height and setback and work from there.

As you don't have a "road position", try modifying the position on this bike before spending the money on another bike / frame.
The current position looks very upright.

The bars could be rotated downwards into a more horizontal position. This will shorten the reach to the drops. You'd probably have to move the levers upwards as well.
Also, try dropping the stem so you can try a lower more stretched out position. Rotating the hips will give you more reach.

Note, you'll need to ride and give it some time to get used to the changes.

[Skorp]

Setback and seat height is adjusted by my friend who knows this. I'm adjusting the handlebars while i ride. It feels the best like in the picture. I mostly ride on top of the levers and only go down in drops for downhill.

The frame feels VERY long. Even with a 3.5cm shorter stem.
The owners of the two bikes i tried used my cannondale when i tried their bikes.. Their height is 182cm and 185cm. Both of them said
that the cannondale was crazy long.

I will measure Reach, stack, toptube and seattube lengt on the Cannondale so i can try to read these geo figures

[DMF]

As 5 8 5 said, you're not in a road position here. Think of this as your whole upper body being leaned backwards, due to a high mounted bar due to the spacers, the bar tilt and foremost the frames tall head tube. This backwards leaning body will struggle to reach. Try rotating the bar forward until the end of the drops are near parallel with the ground (this is not a minor adjustment for you, the levers will have to move up too!) and mounting a stem that drops the bar atleast 5cm lower.

I'm not saying this is your best fit, and it will take time to get used to, but it will get your shoulders and arms a lot closer to the head tube in this more forward position.

Based on your current seemingly poor fit, you are not ready do decide on a new frame. I.e, this is more to do with fit than frame reach at this point.

Edit, oh and be prepared to reconsider your seat position as it needs to come both up and forward when you dramatically lower the bar to keep the same hip angle, think of this as rotating your whole body in a fixed position rotating around a fixed pivot point at the BB.

[Skorp]

The reason i liked my friends bikes better is that i felt i was sitting abit more upright and had the handlebars closer. WB felt alot shorter aswell.

I'm sorry, but i can't see how lowering my handlebar will help here. I will try though, to put the handlebars as low as possible and reposition the levers and seat

[DMF]

There is a difference between having the handlebars closer and being closer to the handlebars. I'd take a wild guess you were the latter on the Foil. Think about where your shoulders vertical line crosses the top tubes horizontal line, when your body tips forward. Your bars have only moved lower, but not further away.

[Skorp]

i took my bike for a small ride just to test stuff.
the seat all the way forward, and i could actually take my seat over 1cm higher. Felt like this is the change i wanted. More power and probably stamina. (the ride was only 1h, so im not really sure)
The stem did not affect as much as i tought. Altough i will go to my local Road specialist and ask if they can tip me, and i can try the Foil again.

[mjduct]

Seatpost setback affects effective top tube, but that is no measure of frame size, which effective reach is, and saddle setback doesn't affect that one bit. In fit seat height and setback relative the BB comes first, all else is second to that.

Completely agree, the difference between you and me is: You are assuming that he is in a good position saddle-bottom bracket wise, and I am assuming the exact opposite.