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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:48 pm 
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Location: Southampton, UK
Hi All,

Any ideas on this greatly appreciated, Im at the end of my tether!

So Ive got a full DA9000 mechanical groupset,only thing non standard is a Hope Ceramic BB which Im told should be fine.

I work in the trade so our workshop mechanic has set this up AND Shimano tech took a look and told me everything was ok AND in the work stand it shifts and works like a charm.

The problem is when I get out and ride it the front mech rubs on the large chain ring in a 2 or 3 gears, somewhere in the middle of the block and it doesnt do it in the workstand. The middle ring works perfectly and always has done.

Ive got a barrel adjuster fitted which Im told is the way forward (read on this forum)even though the Shimano guys(I saw them at an event) told me to remove it.

I can cure the problem while riding by pushing the shifter a little more to move the mech out a little but obviously I dont want to ride along all day doing this!

Any ideas?

Im happy to put a DA 9000 BB in if needed.

Many thanks

Andy

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:26 pm 
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Adjust the h limit screw?
Adjust cable tension?
Mech cage bent?
Frame flexing?
Crank flexing?
Chainring flexing?
Chainring bolts loose?


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Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:26 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Location: Southampton, UK
Not the bolts or the rings and I thought it could be the cranks and tightened them up but still suspicious of the BB, given this only happens under load and not in the workstand.

Limit screws seem fine and I dont think it can be bent. The cable tension obviously is potentially the issue but 2 "good" mechanics have looked at it - half the problem is that its only me who has felt the rubbing because in the workstand its ok!

I think Ill change the BB just to be sure. The Shimano guy said ditch the adjuster barrel, but looking online it seems to be the vital bit to getting the thing adjusted!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:00 pm 
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The BB wont be the reason so dont waste your money with that. I have mine which wasnt easy to setup without a barrel adjuster and to get it to trim was a ball ache but think its about there, now my problem is in 11th gear the chain catches the outter ring when on the inner ring, this is probably down to the cheap focus crank im temp using until I get the DA one next month.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:05 pm 
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The biggest annoyance is its fine in the stand, Im totally happy with the setup when its sat there in my garage! When Im out I can use the barrel adjust to resolve the rubbing but later on the problem comes back almost like the issue is with the adjuster........maybe I should check this

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:15 pm 
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Could it be that the cable is not entirely fixed and that it experiences some slight slippage whenever you shift under (more) load? Maybe there is a thin layer of a lubricant on it?

Hope you get that one sorted soon!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:16 pm 
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Lol, Ok, so no help from my response, but when I read the title of your thread, I thought that the front derailleur was pulling the hair out from your legs (assuming you don't shave).

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:23 am 
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I know with campy 11 speed this is a problem also. If the DA is set up right the big chain won't rub in the smaller cogs like 11-15 and the small ring won't run in the larger cogs like 28-23 but in the middle of the cassette the 3-4 cogs will rub on either the large or small ring. That's the purpose of the trim function. When in the middle of the cassette and in big ring give slight tap to the front shifter to downshift slightly vice versa when in small ring. It will shift over just slightly and you'll hear no rub.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:01 am 
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Location: NoVA/DC
So you're saying that when you're in the large ring and the hardest cogs (11, 12, etc), the chain rubs the front derailleur, but only when riding outside...
How fast are you going when in those gears? what is your cadence? Even perfectly set up, at lower cadence under high torque, you will likely be able to make the chain rub the front derailleur.
Assuming that is not the issue, and assuming you cannot simply increase cable tension and unscrew the high limit slightly, a couple things come to mind.
First is to make sure the fd is at the right height. The outer cage plate should be between 1-3mm above the outer ring teeth. I personally aim for 1.5mm. Then make sure the derailleur cage angle is truly parallel to the large ring. Shimano shows a good method for this: chain off, place a 5mm Allen wrench along the right side of the large chainring's teeth. The wrench should only sit on the outermost part of the ring. Adjust the LOW limit screw until the right side of the fd outer cage just barely grazes the wrench. Turn the crank fore n aft to check that this measured clearance is uniform from the front of the fd cage to the rear.
Lastly, there are two correct ways to route the cable around the pinch bolt and a number of incorrect ways. If yours is correct, the cable passes UNDER the bolt itself. Almost all other derailleurs require the opposite. With respect to the two correct options, one choice allows the derailleur to move farther for a given cable pull. If yours is not this way, and Shimano's guide tool is vague about which choice is for you, it is possible that the mechanics had "no choice" but to set the high limit screw a bit tight. Their other option would have been for them to allow a lot more rubbing in your small ring/easiest cog. Switching cable anchor points would eliminate this compromise.
I don't know why any Shimano tech would recommend to ditch the barrel adjuster. I cannot believe an actual Shimano tech guy would do that, most I've met are pretty sharp. A Shimano SALES rep, sure.
Good luck.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:05 am 
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This sounds like an adjustment with cable tension issue. Especially if using the barrel adjuster you can make it go away. I would check the cable routing at the pinch bolt, cable tension, and the limit screws again.
The pinch bolt cable routing is easy to get wrong.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:47 am 
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Curious if you've always had this issue or if it's more recent? (I know the frustration with these types of adjustments as well). If I understand correctly, the rub occurs when the chain is at more extreme angles. Trimming the der. seems to work for me, but maybe yours hasn't needed trimming in those gears before? In my case, cable tension, limit screw adjustment and alignment have always solved the problem, but some trim is to expected in some gear combos. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:21 am 
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Thanks for eveyones inputs. Im going to take another look tonight, check the barrel adjuster doesn't have an issue then go through everything again. Ive ordered a new bb, just because the Hope was designed pre 9000 and I don't want any margin for error, that and its lighter!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:44 am 
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Have you used the two 1mm spacers, one each side of the BB?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:03 pm 
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>The middle ring works perfectly and always has done.
Middle ring? You mean the inner ring?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:20 pm 
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too much cable housing length may lead to unpredictable shifting. also check that ferrels are in where they are suppose to be. just a few suggestions.

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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:20 pm 


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