Converting Shimano 7900/7850 wheelsets to 11 speed (a guide)

[petal666]

That's rubbish. The Rd and chain and cassette are over 1cm from the spokes. Very close to the hub flange, yes, but not close to the spokes at all.

[MichaelB]

Wheels Manufacturing don't 'recommend' it for any hub, as I asked them specifically regarding this.

Given the cost, I can't see any other reason for it, especially when a 105 11sp cassette is one third the price.

If the WM Accel cassette are not designed to get 11sp cassettes on 10sp hubs, what is the point ????

[maxxevv]

Its perfectly fine with me if you want to go ahead and believe what you wish to believe. Its your call at the end of the day.

But hey.. don't treat this like a religion. Just assess with it with some rationality and things generally would turn out better.

[izabala]

Hi

All the posts are referred to a DA 9000 casette. What about a 11 spd Sram cassette? I've milled the nucleus body to gain the 1,85mm, and something more is needed. With a Shimano cassette, you can mille also the hub flange a bit, because of the lip the cassette has. But that's not the case in Sram, the cassette is flat in the back side. So, if I'm not wrong, the only way is with a new 1mm washer in the axle, so that the length is now 131mm. This is, in fact the same distance Alchemy has in their new hub in order to gain 0,5mm of center to flange distance. In our case, redishing this amount would be needed.
Removing the drive side cone is quite hard, a large pedal 17mm key and a 5mm allen are needed. I need to purchase the long 17mm one, because with a short cup-cone key, it's difficult.

Any comments and suggestions?

[jorisee01]

Does anybody know if this will work with 7800 as well?


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[petal666]

I've never seen 7800 wheels to try it out.

[jorisee01]

The hub flanges are a bit different: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... R-2525.pdf

I can buy a set for a good price but are only going to do it if I'm able to convert it.


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[jorisee01]

THere could be problem with the 7801 10speed deep splined freehub.


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[petal666]

Yes, I remember now that was going to be an issue, although if you are going to get the freehub machined anyway, you could just get the splines machined down as well. The alloy would be much easier to work with than Ti.

[Mackers]

The 7800 hub's 10 S only body is already 1mm narrower than the regular 8/9/10 s bodies.
There's just not enough material left there to machine the body itself, so you'll have to get an extra mm from the cassette.

[jorisee01]

Ok, i crossed this off my list. Found a 7850 set!


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[ewwhite]

The conversion cassettes work very nicely on the 7850 hub without any machining or modification.

[jorisee01]

I'll go for the machining. Worked out nicely with my C24's.


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[petal666]

The conversion cassettes work very nicely on the 7850 hub without any machining or modification.

They don't have all ratios though.

[IrrelevantD]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm trying to find some answers. Just bought a bike that came with 11s, trying to find a way to keep my old 6700 tubeless wheels.

From looking at the exploded view docs from shimano's dealer site, it looks like the non-group (WH-RS-21, 31 and 61) wheels use the same, or extremely similar axles, bearings, etc, to the WH-6700 wheelset. Likewise, looking back at the HB-6600 hub, it the current generation 105 hub (HB-5800) looks nearly identical on the EV. They all apear to use the same M10 x 141mm axle, the only real difference I could see would be perhaps the width of the components between the end bolts to keep it at 130mm total width.

While this does not guarantee compatibility, they are still using the same number of splines where the freehub body engages the hub and they appear symetcrical; so unless there was some very subtle change, it may be possible to swap out the hub with a lower model level part, re-dish, and go.

Does anyone know if the engagement splines between the hub and the body have changed, or have they kept them the same? As there is a 4-ish mm spacer on the non drive side of the axle, it might be easier and cheaper to file that down and re-dish than machining the actual hub.