Yes. This is the second cable that I have put into the shifter. I kinked the first cable because of the tight turn and the small hole in the shifter. This is the second cable and I have ridden with it for about a year. I will go a few rides without adjusting, but I know that it is not completely correct. The people I ride with never notice the problem so I must be close to correct.
I thought I might have a small bend in the hanger. So I bought another hanger but it did not correct the problem.
A couple of notes:
A new hanger guarantees nothing - in the case of the OE hangers, they are usually made of poor alloy (colloquially "cheese") and the manufacture process seldom actually produces one where the part of the hanger that mates to the frame is properly perpendicular to the thread in the hanger that the top pivot bolt tightens into. Even in the case of a "CNC" hanger where this ought to be the case, it's something of a leap of faith that the area on the frame that the hanger mates to will be exactly parallel in both axes to the cassette - so even if the hanger itself is right, never take it for granted that the frame is ... we've seen enough to know "it ain't necessarily so" as the song goes.
Fit the hanger, torque it down, fit the rear wheel, making sure the QR springs are the right way around, with the bike on the floor (so that the wheel is all the way into the dropouts), then check with an alignment tool and cold set as necessary - just make sure that the wheel you are using as your template is straight and that the bearings don't have excess rock in them. The rim may only move 0.5 mm, say, but if the offset tolerance is +/-6mm (as it is for Campag and for that matter Shimano & SRAM) then 0.5 mm is still clocking on for a 4% error - OK if your offset is in the lower part of that +/-6mm, not so hot if you are at the extreme edge of it.
We say it a squillion times a year but it does sometimes seem to have trouble getting through ... the reason Campagnolo (and everyone else) engraves or otherwise indicates a torque setting on the cassette lockring is because it matters - its 45-50nm for a reason! In Campagnolo's case, the supposed fragility in the spacers and the accurate spacing between the sprockets are both functions of how well compressed the spacers are - tightening the lockring to the required torque addresses both of these problems.
The tell-tale on cable friction is that the user can either set the downshift well but get a sluggish upshift, or the upshift is snappy but the downsift is laggard - doing the 1kg test on the cable will give you a quantifiable, definite measure of whether friction alone is the issue.
If friction is the issue, commonly found things include outer cable ends not opened up properly, wrong ferrules and / or with incorrect o-ring seals, poor quality inners if "pattern", small kinks of the inner, inside the outer from assembly, corrosion of the inner, degradation or wear of the liner inside the outer (often forgotten, especially at the handlebar end) and so on. In-line adjusters installed on a cable bend are also frequent culprits, especially these days with internal cabling and the fad for reducing weight of the frame by simply porting the frame for a cable end or ferrule, rather than building on or in a proper location for a threaded adjuster. Beware inline adjuster drift, too - turning the bars can occasionally cause the adjuster barrels to rotate, especially in un-sprung adjusters or those where the spring inside the adjuster is almost or totally "unloaded" so doing little or nothing to help the adjuster retain it's setting. Crossed cables and inner cable rub on part of the frame can also give friction-based issues.
Crossed or intertwined cables can also give tension issues - typically seen where indexing is set on the inside chainring but is "off" for the outer, or vice-versa.
Other, non-friction culprits for poor shift can be end-compression on the housing (plastic, not metal ferrules used? Outer cables cut accurately square when the outer is curved into place?), under-bracket gear tunnel flex (are the tunnels tight to the BB shell with no cables running across them or are the cables preloaded by the tunnels trying to spring away from the BB shell?), non-Campag inners (where the cable head has bulged the cable bushing enough to bring it into contact with the inside of the shifter body)? Gear outer not fully seated in the lever body (can develop if the levers are not tight enough on the 'bar and shift down the curve during riding)? Lastly, all gear systems work better if the outers are fully taped in under the handlebar tape and all the adjusters are as close to fully screwed "in" as possible so that they don't move so much in their threads as the gear cable tension changes.