HOT: Active* forum members generally gain 5% discount at starbike.com store!
Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Articles FAQ Contact About




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:07 pm
Posts: 229
Location: Palo Alto, CA
After having installed/ridden/raced scores of every incarnation of Dura Ace chain over nearly 20 years without a single failure, I read the installation instructions closely for the first time. I've been installing the chains, specifically the connecting pins, correctly (from outer side, using reinforced connecting pin in new 7801, etc.), with one big exception, to wit: I haven't ever paid attention to whether I install the pin in the front or back of the link.

So, I was surprised to learn that in their installation directions Shimano states, "we strongly recommend to set the connecting pin in the hole of the outer link on the front side in the direction of travel. The chain's level of strength is [thereby] enhanced..." Here's a link to the Shimano pictorial chain installation directions, with the above recommendation: http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/ ... 612411.pdf

Is this something most of you are aware of that I somehow never read, heard, etc.? I looked at my bikes and all happen to be installed this way except for my primary race bike that I ride most. :shock:

I'm not concerned the chain'll snap and I'll die, but I'm curious how much extra strength is gained by using the front link hole? Can any of you engineer/physics types explain this in lay terminology?

Thanks.


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:49 am 


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:54 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 6:24 pm
Posts: 4389
Location: BELGIUM
The forces pulling on the chain will be working on the outside instead of the inside of link.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2005 10:19 am
Posts: 784
Location: Greece
I do not think this is correct.
Both the inside and outside plates are subject to exactly the same force regardless of the orientation of the chain.
IF there is a reason (which I highly doubt) the only one I can think of has to do with the bendind of the chain during shifting.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:32 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:28 pm
Posts: 1107
Location: Australia
I read that too some time ago... I just did what it said... i figure if Shimano have the technology to tell you the new chain is 0.6% more efficient in 7900 - then they'd be able to tell if the front or the back of the chain is better for the connecting pin to be place through...

But in saying that - i would have thought it wouldn't have mattered that much...

and if it ain't broke...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:09 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun May 12, 2013 8:56 am
Posts: 1
Shimano's gibberish made me so upset that I decided to make a drawing. From all I figured out A (correct) and B (incorrect) correspond to the following images:
Image
Image

Or for those preferring a pdf:
http://www.yaroc.ch/bike/Correctly_Closing_a_Shimano_Chain--web.pdf


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 1:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 6:34 am
Posts: 14
Location: PGH/Reading PA
I've always assumed that you push the pin in from the drive side and break off the guide on the non drive side so that the lip of the pin may aid in shifting up to the larger cogs in the cassette, but perhaps moreso to not catch the ramps and pins as easily on the big ring when in the small small combination.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 2:41 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:32 pm
Posts: 473
Ha. I, too, was apparently doing it 'wrong' for many years without an issue. Some time in the '90s, a guy at a shop showed me how to do it, and that was it -- I did what he showed me, and never noticed the instructions. Oops.

If you're pinning a chain at the top (above the chain stay), Shimano says that the "pulling" link should be an "inner" link.

Oh yeah: holy old threads, Batman


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Sun May 12, 2013 2:41 pm 


Top
  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: BeeSeeBee, Bing [Bot], drainyoo, Exabot [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], n808, Rick, wrenegade, Yahoo [Bot] and 55 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. shimano 10spd chain breaking

in Road

tinchy

2

429

Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:59 pm

eric View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. New Dura Ace Chain........return to Asymmetrical

in Road

goodboyr

7

723

Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:20 am

eric01 View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Force 22 Rear Mech with 10Spd SRAM Levers?

in Road

BikeTart

7

795

Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:58 am

stefanot View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. New cassette - chain question

in Road

jmsp

3

445

Fri May 30, 2014 11:39 am

jmsp View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. New chain length difference

in Road

pdlpsher1

2

486

Tue Sep 10, 2013 3:38 am

pdlpsher1 View the latest post


It is currently Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:08 pm

All times are UTC + 1 hour




Advertising   –  FAQ   –  Contact   –  Convert   –  About

© Weight Weenies 2000-2013
hosted by starbike.com


How to get rid of these ads? Just register!


Powered by phpBB