Gearing Question for Dura-ace 9000
Moderator: robbosmans
And you are probably going to be in this same shape every April. That is why you want the 28 rear unless you want to have seasonal cassettes.
For certain parts stiffer is more important than lighter.
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sbkidd wrote:You have a cassette that jumps from 24 to 28? I really wish Shimano would do an 11-27 11 speed, I don't seem to have the leg speed to get much use out of the 28 but it's a big drop to the 25.
Wait for 12sp then, because that's what you're going to get with 11sp 11-27. Look at the 10sp 12-27: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19 21-24-27. Add one gear then its 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27.
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ultimobici
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Where are you doing most of your riding? What kind of climbs are you encountering in your rides? All this affects the choices of gearing that will benefit you.
sbkidd wrote:You have a cassette that jumps from 24 to 28? I really wish Shimano would do an 11-27 11 speed, I don't seem to have the leg speed to get much use out of the 28 but it's a big drop to the 25.
have to agree with you here. 27 is an obvious choice im just thinking after the big climb yesterday that 25 isnt enough.
going to do a few more rides before I decide a 28t or 25t.
given the choice would most people run an 11t or 12t?
Madone Five Series 2013
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000
Mavic Cosmic SLE 2013
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000
Mavic Cosmic SLE 2013
Sram are coming out with a 11-27 in 11 speed. It will be 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27. Maybe this is an option for you?
Imho, the jump from 21 to 24 to 27 is perfect for hilly terrain. I was amazed when shimano came out with a 11-28 when they announced 9000. Having a 23,25,28 at the bottom would be nice, but excluding the 16 in the process seemed stupid when they could just run 21-24-27 at the bottom of the cassette instead.
On another point, you have to consider how much you actually use an 11t or even 12t cog while decending.
Do you really ever put in a proper effort down the hills, maintaining a decent amount of power? Or are you just kind of soft pedalling, and letting the hill and your weight do most of the work?
There are decreased gains once you get over about 60kmph were you can put in alot of watts and only go a few kmph faster. Whereas if you only soft pedalled, and effectively rested til the flat or uphill again, you will gain more time on the uphill because you rested instead of maintained the effort.
You should trial decending in the 11t, 12t, and 13t, really feeling out how much you really need those top cogs. You might be surprised to find out that other than soft pedaling in your big gear downhill, you really have no use for the 11, or maybe even the 12, depending on how fast your comfortable in spinning a smaller gear.
Cheers,
metal
Imho, the jump from 21 to 24 to 27 is perfect for hilly terrain. I was amazed when shimano came out with a 11-28 when they announced 9000. Having a 23,25,28 at the bottom would be nice, but excluding the 16 in the process seemed stupid when they could just run 21-24-27 at the bottom of the cassette instead.
On another point, you have to consider how much you actually use an 11t or even 12t cog while decending.
Do you really ever put in a proper effort down the hills, maintaining a decent amount of power? Or are you just kind of soft pedalling, and letting the hill and your weight do most of the work?
There are decreased gains once you get over about 60kmph were you can put in alot of watts and only go a few kmph faster. Whereas if you only soft pedalled, and effectively rested til the flat or uphill again, you will gain more time on the uphill because you rested instead of maintained the effort.
You should trial decending in the 11t, 12t, and 13t, really feeling out how much you really need those top cogs. You might be surprised to find out that other than soft pedaling in your big gear downhill, you really have no use for the 11, or maybe even the 12, depending on how fast your comfortable in spinning a smaller gear.
Cheers,
metal
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policedutchdog
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I have ridden the 50/34 for the last 4-5 years and when I went to the Shimano 9000 I made the switch to the 52/36 running an 11-25 out back. It took only a week or so to et use to riding in the 36 and there is a lot of climbing where I live. I really like having that 52 on the descent as the 50/11 was just not enough and I would get dropped. Their are only a few spots that I would like to have that 28 but really would wish Shimano wold have made a 26 or 27. A 28 is really too much spinning even for me.
Scott
Scott
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BRSlovenia
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Hello, I was searching whole internet for this answer, but couldn't find it. Hope someone can help me here.
Has anyone tryed 52/34 on the front? Is it possible regarding front derailleur?
Has anyone tryed 52/34 on the front? Is it possible regarding front derailleur?
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rowdysluggins
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I voted for 52x36 12x28, but I have (and would have voted for if it was an option) 52x36 11x25
My logic: 50/34
Shimano makes an 11-23, so if you don't need low gears, use that cassette. Then, you still have the option of going much lower just by going to a 25, 27, 28, or 30 in the rear.
a 50-11 is also still a taller gear than a 53-12, so there doesn't seem to be much disadvantage to sticking with the 50. If you really need larger than 50, I applaud you, but I have never really needed that even on steep descents. At some point you just tuck and bomb, or if you are in a group the draft sucks you along at those speeds pretty effortlessly. In fact, although I have a couple 11 tooth cassettes, I almost always use the 12 tooth just because I can usually spin at high RPM if I need to, but I much more appreciate an extra gear in the middle range.
So I don't feel like the compact limits me on anything, but gives a lot more options at the low range.
Just my take on it.
Of course if you know you are going for specific type races, that might change the analysis. Like for example, specializing in crit races or a known long slight descent. Maybe you never need the small chainring at all !
Shimano makes an 11-23, so if you don't need low gears, use that cassette. Then, you still have the option of going much lower just by going to a 25, 27, 28, or 30 in the rear.
a 50-11 is also still a taller gear than a 53-12, so there doesn't seem to be much disadvantage to sticking with the 50. If you really need larger than 50, I applaud you, but I have never really needed that even on steep descents. At some point you just tuck and bomb, or if you are in a group the draft sucks you along at those speeds pretty effortlessly. In fact, although I have a couple 11 tooth cassettes, I almost always use the 12 tooth just because I can usually spin at high RPM if I need to, but I much more appreciate an extra gear in the middle range.
So I don't feel like the compact limits me on anything, but gives a lot more options at the low range.
Just my take on it.
Of course if you know you are going for specific type races, that might change the analysis. Like for example, specializing in crit races or a known long slight descent. Maybe you never need the small chainring at all !
52-36 crankset and 25-11 cassette.
Until maintaining your fitness level, you can use 28-12 ultegra cassette.
I don't enjoy the big gap between cogs on 28T cassette and don't like to look of 50T crank
Until maintaining your fitness level, you can use 28-12 ultegra cassette.
I don't enjoy the big gap between cogs on 28T cassette and don't like to look of 50T crank
