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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:20 am 
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Need some advice, is it true that if i install a pedal spacer on a pedal that is allen wrench only i wont be able to get it off, just looking to do some testing with my stance. please advice


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:36 am 
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Your spacer needs to have a hole for the axle or you won't even be able to get the pedal on, because the axle needs to thread into the crankarm. You then shouldn't have a problem getting the pedal off, although potential galvanic corrosion may mean you need some leverage to remove the pedal.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:38 am 
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I use spacers (washers) to fine tune the stance of my time pedals and have yet to have an issue removing them afterwards. Just use abit of anti seize just in case.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:42 am 
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Is this even necessary?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:04 am 
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If he wants to play with his stance, yes.
(If he has run out of adjustment by sliding the cleats as far inboard as possible already!)

And as stated above, you can use pedal axle washers to get 3-4mm (at most) increase in stance. More than that and you'll risk pulling the pedal out of the axle under high loads (depending on the crank/pedal interface).

Then you'll need to get proper machined spacers (which start at around 20mm i think). I've not seen any with a hole through, not to say they don't exist.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:58 am 
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Washers between the pedal and the crank is going to give you at most 3mm extra width on each side, and that is pushing it. I would not like to have anything other than the maximum available threads of a pedal axle inside the crank arm. I have stripped pedals out of cranks before (admittedly that was whilst being a badman on a Terrible One Barcode BMX with Profile cranks, but whatever)

Needing an extra 3mm stance difference on each side, when the cleats have been 'slammed' as far as they go is telling me there is something wrong with the overall fit of the bike, or our friend here has got wabby legs.

:)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:55 am 
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If by "wabby legs" you mean duck footed, i have a similar issue, and have in the past used all the adjustment (both width and rotation) to get my feet and knees in the right position. Another riding partner has, in the past, had to modify TBT and early impact cleats to get the right amount of rotation on one leg (again, duck footed).

Neither of us have a fit problem with the bikes (any bikes), just duck feet.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:52 am 
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Shimano make the Dura ace 9000 pedals with an extra long axle option, it is longer by 4mm


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:16 am
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digitalnorbs wrote:
Need some advice, is it true that if i install a pedal spacer on a pedal that is allen wrench only i wont be able to get it off, just looking to do some testing with my stance. please advice


Depends how much you need, as someone mentioned 3mm of washers each side is considered safe.

If you want to use spacers you'll need pedals that can be done up externally.

Time arn't the best pedals to do a knee alignment with.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:53 pm 
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Thank you all for getting back to me I've been fitted three times and I'm still have an issue that my feet, at least that's what I think the problem is my other question is what about the spacers they give you 20 mm Space in the in the pedal spindle with those come off easy after a few rides


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:02 pm 
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The spacers come off easily as they have (big) spanner flats on them.
You'll not easily get the pedals off the spacers though. If ever.
You need a pedal with spanner flats.

And TBH, you would have to be way way outside the normal range to not be able to get comfortable with a modern 3 bolt cleat, there is around 15-20mm fore/aft movement and 8-10 across the shoe, thats nearly 20mm of Q-factor adjustment.
Has your fitter looked at cleat wedges, as some issues with feet (hotspots, numb toes etc) *could* be caused by having your feet held at the wrong angle along their long axis.

Could also be a tight IT Band, this can make you feel like your lower leg/foot can't get the right position on the pedal (i've suffered from this before now, massage and stretching fixed it.)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:12 pm 
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digitalnorbs wrote:
Thank you all for getting back to me I've been fitted three times and I'm still have an issue that my feet, at least that's what I think the problem is my other question is what about the spacers they give you 20 mm Space in the in the pedal spindle with those come off easy after a few rides


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


That'd be because you are using pedals that can't be tightened. Get some pedals that you can do up with a pedal wrench.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:53 pm 
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this has been a very frustrating process for a few years, you see when im on a fit bike things are all good, but as soon as im on a bike outside, the problems are back, left side i almost come around and over the pedal while the right side is straight down with heal drop, i defenitly doent feel like im sitting square on the saddle, i been to 3 fitters, and am ready to stop riding, for my age and the amount time i have to ride i can rock and roll but this is so annoying that im ready to give up riding, one other issue that started this all, im leaning the bike to the left side a very little as well. im wondering if retul does a fit on rollers, my bike can not be put on a trainer, because then i look fine to everyone, i have read that some one with simular issue use spacers and it help, i really dont care what it looks like at this point


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:54 pm 
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had my pelvis x rayed, been to chiro to have him look me over for symmetry too


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:25 am
Posts: 1311
Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
Forgive me if someone has already pointed this out, but Time pedals have two Q Factor settings depending upon which cleat you use under which shoe. Have you read the instruction sheet?

And, in my opinion the axles on the latest high end Time pedals without wrench flats are just too short for pedal washers. Note that Look pedals have longer axles expressly for the use of pedal washers - this is a design feature..


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