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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 1:24 pm 
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Location: Islip, NY
Doesn't look good, but I'd like to know more. Without any translation, I suspect it can be fixed with a different pad compound for more extreme use. All I know is my brakes don't howl like that. The only difference is I have 140mm rotors.

http://www.tour-magazin.de/technik/so_t ... 30097.html

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 1:51 pm 
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Looks just like an XT caliper with a different badge. As for the squealing that'll be poor set up most likely, they need to get thier MTB buddies to show them what to do!

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Posted: Wed May 21, 2014 1:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 2:39 pm 
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Not much to translate. It's a steep downhill section with lot's of turns. He has added some weight on his bike and body to get over 100kg total weight. He used both brakes, but the front failed. The disc has an aluminium core that is sandwhiched between steel. The aluminium core of the disc started to melt and was squeezed from between the outer steel. He was then able to pull the brakelever completely against the handlebar and braking power was gone...

IMO disc have no place on a road bike. Speeds are higher then on the mtb and the disc diameter is smaller, so insufficient cooling... Just get aluminium rims and normal brakes and you will be fine in any situation.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 2:54 pm 
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Didn't seem like too extreme a test. Maybe he was dragging the brakes more than I would recommend. Would be interesting to hear a response from Shimano. Have to agree for steep descending I would want a larger diameter discs.

I do disagree and think discs will have a place in road biking. In place where there is a lot of rain or humidity and you always have wet road discs would be super nice with much better wet weather braking and you could run nice carbon wheels without wearing them down either. I am sure the industry loves them too as something new to push too. I would love it for a combined winter and commuter bike.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 3:01 pm 
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CBJ wrote:
I would love it for a combined winter and commuter bike.


Just put some slicks on a hardtail mtb.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:41 pm
Posts: 724
Location: Uppsala, Sweden
Oswald wrote:
Not much to translate. It's a steep downhill section with lot's of turns. He has added some weight on his bike and body to get over 100kg total weight. He used both brakes, but the front failed. The disc has an aluminium core that is sandwhiched between steel. The aluminium core of the disc started to melt and was squeezed from between the outer steel. He was then able to pull the brakelever completely against the handlebar and braking power was gone...

IMO disc have no place on a road bike. Speeds are higher then on the mtb and the disc diameter is smaller, so insufficient cooling... Just get aluminium rims and normal brakes and you will be fine in any situation.



or you run with disc that are in steel, and not the sandwiched construction, and the mention problem isn't a problem. and yes the speed is higher and disc is smaller, but then are also the the contact between ground and tire smaller = less power needed to lock.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:01 pm 
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Location: Uppsala, Sweden
CBJ wrote:
...I would love it for a combined winter and commuter bike.


in one way yes, but it´s also a problem considering for example that if you want to hide the caliper in the "inner angle" in the rear fork of the frame, it will be a problem on smal frames with disc that are 135 mm. but i personally think it´s the feature


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:27 pm 
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I'd like to hear the translation and I wonder how they installed the brakes. My guess is that they did not bed the pads in properly because the sound went away at the end.

For the non mtber's "To achieve the maximum braking performance, the new pads will need bedding in. Please note that sintered pads will take longer to bed in than organic pads. To bed in the pads, ride a short distance, whilst alternatively gently applying the brake on and off without attempting to stop. This procedure will achieve good braking performance but will reach it's full potential after a few rides"


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:41 pm 
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Location: Finland
JensW wrote:
or you run with disc that are in steel, and not the sandwiched construction, and the mention problem isn't a problem. and yes the speed is higher and disc is smaller, but then are also the the contact between ground and tire smaller = less power needed to lock.



I'm not so sure if you want to run steel discs..
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/con ... _Test.html

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:50 pm 
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Location: Brooklyn
Oswald wrote:
CBJ wrote:
I would love it for a combined winter and commuter bike.


Just put some slicks on a hardtail mtb.


¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 5:58 pm 
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Location: Uppsala, Sweden
TurboKoo wrote:
JensW wrote:
or you run with disc that are in steel, and not the sandwiched construction, and the mention problem isn't a problem. and yes the speed is higher and disc is smaller, but then are also the the contact between ground and tire smaller = less power needed to lock.



I'm not so sure if you want to run steel discs..
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/con ... _Test.html


that link just shows shimano discs and is there own figure. so i still wonder why would´t it? i mean, almost every manufacture does it on mtb, except for shimano.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 6:05 pm 
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Location: Islip, NY
That was the aluminium core that melted? I thought the pads disintegrated. Aluminium melts at 660C. Wouldn't the rotors gotten red?

"Doesn’t really matter what the emitter is…stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:

C F Color

400 752 Red heat, visible in the dark
474 885 Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 975 Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 1077 Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 1292 Dark red
800 1472 Dull cherry-red
900 1652 Cherry-red
1000 1832 Bright cherry-red
1100 2012 Orange-red

C= Centigrade
F= Farenheit "

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 6:57 pm 
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I'm having a hard time believe the rotor melted. I think it's the pads and poor bed in procedure or manufacturer defect. The back brake worked fine even at the end by itself. That's my armchair comment.



I few years back I rode this segment on my single speed bike with only a rear brake (Juicy 7 with 160mm rotor). I Was heavy at the time 240 rider, 30 bike, 10 gear, for a total 280 pounds.
http://www.strava.com/segments/687767


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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 3:14 am 
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It's hard to believe the aluminium layer has melt down during the test.
I guess the tester have done a poor setting.
If so it would be a shame for TOUR.

As a long term MTB rider, too. I consume a lot of time on dirt as on tarmac.
And the Shimano's rotor has never let me down.
Basically they have better temp resistent than formula and much better than avid ones.
imho if Shimano failed to produce a proper road disc brake set, you just won't get it from elsewhere.


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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:03 am 
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Meltdown!
Image
Image


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Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:03 am 


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