Alligator I-Link question

[aerozy]

Hey folks! I've recently decided to jump into the compressionless world. Initially was considering Nokon but after considering all the possibilities I've decided on going for the Alligator I-link system.

Correct me if Im wrong but compared to Nokon's their cheaper, lighter and at least as durable. Oh no... the three words in one product! Cant be true

First question, once the system begins to wear out is it ok just to replace the inner cable and inner liner? The outer casing lasts "forever", right?

I can see that stores sell inner cables separately but not inner liner's. How does it work?

Thanks in advance! D

[synchronicity]

The aluminium ends tend to get a bit mangly looking [with nokon], but they will still work fine if you just replace the liner.

But I suppose that's the problem isn't it? They don't sell the liner separately.

[mca56]

I recently installed a set of the I Links. The liner looks pretty generic. If it was unavailable from Alligator, you could probably substitute Nokon replacement liners, or the like.

FYI I tried a set of Powercordz 1.2mm derailleur cables with the I Link housings but the rear shifting performance (SRAM Red) was degraded. Now using the supplied I Link cables and my first impressions are good. Leave off the supplied ferrules for SRAM Red shifters...they will not fit.

[yourdaguy]

Not that familiar with I-Link but the liner in Nokon is just teflon tubing. My bike guy gets it in 50 foot rolls and I buy 10 feet at a time. Many bike shops have it and many other bike shops will say they never heard of it. You have to find one that knows about it. I think you can get it at Spicer Cycles: http://spicercycles.com If you can't find it in the parts list, you can call him or email him the number/address is on the site.

I use the left over pieces on the cable under the top tube instead of the little donuts. It looks way better and allows you to grab the bike by the top tube without fear of grinding the steel cable into the paint. Handy stuff to have around.

[JackLawrenceXXX]

MCA56 bummed to hear that... that's the same combo I am going to run as soon as I get the gear cables from Alligator... the rear brake cable I installed from Power Cordz is working fine though!

[jmartpr]

If you use the I-Links witht he supplied liner you have to use a 1.2 mm cable....The regular PowerCordz (Black) is 1.4 mm, you can install it but there's a lot of friction. You can either use the new 1.2 mm PowerCordz (white) or use the PowerCordz Nokon/ I-link liner with a 1.4 mm cable. I have both setups (MTB + Road) and my vote goes for the I-Links with 1.2 mm PowerCordz.

[JackLawrenceXXX]

yeah, I have the new 1.2mm Power Cordz.. hoping they work well with the I-Link.... should be the lightest combo by far.... (well not including the $270.00 carbon fiber Nokon!)

[jmartpr]

yeah, I have the new 1.2mm Power Cordz.. hoping they work well with the I-Link.... should be the lightest combo by far.... (well not including the $270.00 carbon fiber Nokon!)

It will be even ighter than the Carbon Nokon believe me....take you time in doing the install and don't crip that cable hard until you are sure.

[doozer]

just trying to install these at the moment. bit confused with the brake cables so I have a few thread hi-jack questions:

1. All the long connector peices don't fit anywhere on my campag equipped Ridley Noah. Is it OK to just run the cable pearl sections from the ergo levers?

2. Do you have to run the liner for the rear brake all the way? I have top tube cable stops and the liner looks a bit naff running along it. the black inner wire would look better but I don't want to sacrifice any function of the brakes/system.

Ta, Doozer

[aerozy]

Thanks for help ww's!

Nice to hear that its possible to get the teflon liner separately making compressionless systems ultimately cheaper then the average stock system... with the additional benefit of looking and working better! I'm all for it!

Now I just need to find that magical LBS... If anyone knows somewhere that sells teflon liner's in Europe please let me know!

[mca56]

"1. All the long connector peices don't fit anywhere on my campag equipped Ridley Noah. Is it OK to just run the cable pearl sections from the ergo levers?

2. Do you have to run the liner for the rear brake all the way? I have top tube cable stops and the liner looks a bit naff running along it. the black inner wire would look better but I don't want to sacrifice any function of the brakes/system. "

1. You don't need the housing ends. Just forget about them if they don't fit.

2. No need to run the liner full length, although you can. Remember to compress the housing before cutting the liner to length. The liner comes with a flange on one end. You can create that flange by holding the cut liner end near a flame. If you do it correctly, the liner and the housing will create a compressed unit. Makes it easier to assemble and disassemble.

[aerozy]

Hey guys! One more newbie compressionless question.

Imagening I wanna end the inner liners at the stopper's where should they be cut? A little shorter then the outer casing? A little longer? And what keeps them from sliding through the stopper to begin with? Is it with this flanging with flame technic?

Tried to find instructions on the alligator site with no success

[synchronicity]

If the liners are able to fit through the cable stops, then you can trim them longer. If not, then they should be shorter than the outer housing.

[doozer]

just finished installing on my Ridley noah (55cm). total weight for brake cables (inners and outers all to length) was 61g.

doozer

[aerozy]

Hey guys! Just ordered 3 sets of brake and gear I-Link cables from clee cycles for my three bikes.

With one email they put up the online option for the extra inner liner (1.99£ for 2m!!!). So I ordered 5 extra! haha... should last me a life time. For those of you who use Nokon's I guess these liner's are compatible, thus you can avoid wasting your wallet away on new kits.

I was also told that in most situations the inner cables dont need to be replaced, just cleaned and lubed. If so I dont understand how this technology being far more durable and ultimately cheaper hasnt caught on in the industry. Specially in salty ice climates like Finland things like chains and cables life spans are brief to say the least.

Thanks for the help guys!