Frame size, new bike fitting, questions

[AJS914]

Plug what you have now into a stack/reach calculator so you can compare frames. I used this one with my last frame purchase and it was very accurate down to how many spacers I would have under the stem.

http://bb2stem.blogspot.com/

I used the Excel version which you can download.

To do a quick check of geometry, all you really need to know is top tube and seat tube angle. If you know for example that a 73 degree seat tube angle and 54cm top tube puts you in a good position with the correct length stem, you can start there. After that you may want to look at the headtube length. If you are serious about a specific frame, then you can put all the measurements into a stack/reach calculator.

[Sacke]

http://bb2stem.blogspot.com/

Thanks!

I did the calculation, and what strikes me is that the 54cm Cervelo S3 is actually shorter than the 2016 52cm Supersix Evo.

If only the S5 would have kept the old geometry... or at least be offered with the higher head tube.

I would need to have 2cm more of spacers on the Cannondale, which would mean about 3cm of spacers under the stem!

Although... isn't the Cannondale conical spacer about 25mm?

Once again thanks. I am starting to notice that the S5, despite the lower head tube, would probably be the best choice.

[AJS914]

Make sure you are including the headset top piece into your calculations. That can add another 1cm of stack.

which would mean about 3cm of spacers under the stem!

I know that some of the spacer police wouldn't agree but I don' t think 3cm is a big deal at all if it means you can fit into the frame you like. I also don't buy the, you should buy the next size larger frame just so you can run it slammed. For me that usually means resorting to a 9 or 10cm stem on a less nimble frame. Personally, I think my bikes handle better when I can run an 11 to 13cm stem with 12 being the sweet spot.

[cyclenutnz]

If you're particularly attached to having a longer stem you may be able to fit shorter reach bars and lengthen the stem to compensate. It won't have any effect on steering lever and handling though.

The bike finder prioritises 110 stems, then 100s for bar reach in the range you're looking.

[Sacke]

If you're particularly attached to having a longer stem you may be able to fit shorter reach bars and lengthen the stem to compensate. It won't have any effect on steering lever and handling though.

The bike finder prioritises 110 stems, then 100s for bar reach in the range you're looking.

Looks good! I might just end up getting another Cervélo...

[Cosmonacht]

Hey guys, i'm new the forum. I'm a new road cyclist but I had been a cyclist in my youth. I just picked up a Specialized Allez for the new year to get in shape, and while i'm not overweight, I could stand to lose a few lbs! Anyway, I got my bike at a semi-local bike shop and had gotten a quick fit and walked out with a new bike the same day. However, i'm a little worried that I didn't get the best fit as my seat looks a lot lower than a lot of people who have their saddle height a bit higher than their stem. Mine is maybe a little bit higher but it almost looks as the same height as the stem and i'm worried that my bike fit wasn't a great job and that if I raise the seat, i'd lose slight bend of my knee when at the bottom of the pedal stroke as i'm pretty short at 5'5. The bike is 52cm. Am I trippin' or is this not as bad as I think it is? Thanks!

Err I guess I can't post an image quite yet, but i'll edit this post when I can



I know my bike is heavy but i'm already addicted to cycling and am already planning my weight weenie build :p

[outnumbered]

You need to have the saddle at the right height for your leg length, so don't go raising it just to make it "look better". It looks like you have a 17 degree stem, pointing upwards, so there is plenty of opportunity to lower the bars a bit if/when you feel comfortable doing so (flipping the stem, replacing with a 6 degree or 0 degree stem, etc). It's hard to see if there are any spacers underneath the stem, but if there are, removing them gives other options to lower the bar height.

I'd suggest riding the bike for a while and seeing how you get on with it, and maybe go back to a different shop for advice if you want a second opinion.

[fogman]

Looks like you could flip the stem and loose some spacers to drop the handlebars. Also, how is your reach to your handlebars? Do you feel too stretched out? It is possible that they put you on a bike that is one size too large. Some pictures of you on the bike would be helpful, but the best would be to consult a professional fitter. There is a lot involved with a bike fit. Two good books to read are one by Andy Pruitt and another by Phil Burt. Go to Amazon and search "bike fit".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cosmonacht]

Hey, thanks outnumbered and fogman for your responses.

I took another picture of the steerer tube so that might give a better shot of the handle bars:



I'm not sure if the thing my white blackburn led rechargable light is a spacer or not. My reach on the handlebars feels great, no issues other than my sore legs getting used to cycling, though the reason for me asking the question about the fit is because as my body acclimates to getting down and low for the aero position (drops), I wonder if the saddle height prevents me from getting real low so this is more of a future issue I'm wonder how to tackle.

[fogman]

Yes you have your LED light mounted over a spacer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AJS914]

You have tons of room to lower your stem. The spacer could be removed and it looks like that tall piece could be swapped for something shorter. The bike will look more "pro" if you turned the stem over or fitted a new stem.

The thing is, there is nothing wrong with high handlebars other than it is not aerodynamic. This is how most bikes are fit to non-racer types at the local bike store.

I'd suggest experimenting with what you have. Turn the stem upside down and/or remove the spacer and see how it feels.

[dgasmd]

I need someone to compare and give me feedback here. I currently ride a TIME RXR size XS with a 115 stem. Tiny 3 mm spacer as recommended by the manufacturer. I am looking at getting a Colnago C60. My comparison tells me a size 48s on the Colnago with a 120 stem and no spacers would be as close to it as it can. I could use the seat height to be adjusted up about 2-3 cm max, but that would be the same in either bike for final fit.

Below are both of the size charts. Can others please advice and give me feedback or correct me here please????

[fa63]

Looks like either the 45s or 48s could work. Keep in mind that the STA on the 48s Colnago is about 1 degree steeper, which means that it will fit about 1 cm longer (if you keep the saddle position constant). Actually, from that perspective, a 45s with a 10 mm spacer might actually be a closer fit to your Time.

[dgasmd]

If I was to change anything in my current fit, it would be to raise the seat a bit, have maybe 5 less mm in the stem length, and maybe drop the stem a bit more (slammed already). If I wanted to do all that on the new bike, which size would you pick then? 48s with a 110 stem or the 45s with the 120?

[fa63]

The differences in the two sizes are quite small, so I guess it would be up to you.

Out of curiosity, do you have the saddle slammed forward on the Time right now, or is it pretty centered on the rails?