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 Post subject: Sram HydroR Rim Brake
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Posts: 68
Anybody using the Hydro R brakes, can give some comments or feedback on the brake performance, Just got a set or Rival HydroR's for about half price and am looking at modding them for a custom setup. more info once i get further but it will be a Sramano setup with no mechanical cables.

my CX setup should give you some idea of what's planned.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 8
I'm running Red Hydro-R rim brakes on my Venge and Force Hydro-R disc brakes on my crux which ones do you want to know about, disc or rim?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 10:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Posts: 68
Hi I'm interested in opinions on the Rim version,


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:41 pm
Posts: 757
Location: Uppsala, Sweden
have been running s700 hydro rim two years. it´s still a rim brake so not the disc power, but comparing to a wire rim brake, more and better modulation, more power with using one finger on the brakelever, better feeling when braking.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Posts: 68
Thanks for your replies,

Well my set turned up and i have set to work on modding them to be operated by the Ultegra Di2 lever blade. I've got to say they are about the easiest levers i come across to strip down, remove the rubber hood cover and the 3 screws holding the cover plate on and the shift mechanism is exposed,
remove the locking screw and screw an M2,5 bolt into the end of the shifters main pivot pin, withdraw the pin and then pretty much the whole shift mechanism and shift lever comes out in one,
the brake lever blade much like Di2 is only retained by its pivot pin and an E clip, which the Shimano E clip tool removes easily. and an allen key is required to unscrew the barrel reach adjuster to remove the lever from the main body.

i've modelled up a block to fit the cut down Shimano lever with the correct pivot points and it all works fine, So its now time to order the Glass filled Nylon parts.

Will post up some photos tomorrow,

Have also gone for a new stem, a Syncros Aero R1,1 as its 1 1/4", just need to model up a shroud to cover the clamp bolts as the Scott Foil one is not available as a spare yet, and probably wouldn't blend in with my Canyon ultimates Acros headset.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Posts: 68
A few photos of the Sram lever assembly and my modified Di2 lever,
[img][IMG]http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h159/MotoRapido/IMG_4879_zpspvztmsvr.jpg[/img]/img]
[img][IMG]http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h159/MotoRapido/IMG_4883_zps1wcgzji6.jpg[/img]/img]
[img][IMG]http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h159/MotoRapido/IMG_4884_zps5o6norxa.jpg[/img]/img]


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:16 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Irvine, CA
Very nice work indeed!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 1:27 pm
Posts: 376
Holy cow that's one heck of a mod! I would kill to have hydro rim brakes + Di2. If you're willing to share your steps, that would be amazing. If not, how much would you charge for it!?


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2016 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Posts: 68
Will post some photos of the finished build this weekend, hopefully.

My original plan was to get a new Canyon Ultimate frame-set to fit this too. but having spoken with Canyon UK about the hose routings for the rear brake it would mean drilling out the front cable stop, and although they agreed that it wouldn't weaken the frame and as it passes through the frame it would place less load than the stop of a mechanical cable. Any warranty would be void as they hadn't tried it themselves.

I kind of understand there reasoning, and its saved me a heap of money,

So instead i've modded my existing Canyon Ultimate CF10 frame-set, have also gone for internal Di2 cabling with a custom seat-post battery, and run the rear brake cable in the standard under the top tube location through the current cable stops, but opened them out to take the hose, it does mean i would have to run a full length outer if i went back to mechanical brakes or some fancy cable ends to fit the stops.
Also went for a,
Syncros RR1 aero stem, with a 10mm shorter reach,
New tubeless wheels, Pacenti SL23 rims on American Classic hubs, with DT swiss revolution spokes and alloy nipples, radially laced at the front, and the rear is 2:1 laced up 2 X on the drive side with brass nipples and radially laced non-drive with alloy nipples, A wrap of stans yellow tape, Superstar alloy valves and a shot of Stans fluid shod with Hutchinson Atom tyres. Also upgraded to 11 speed Ultegra Di2 mechs along with the Hydro R rim brakes.


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