Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread
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Holdsworth Competition from Planet X looks pretty good for modern steel.
silvalis wrote:I've been looking at that frame for 6 months... and I still can't get my head around the geometry.
I punched the geometry into a frame comparator, and it looks like it compares to a typical 54cm geometry for a size L. Might not be able to slam one's stem, but it looks reasonable.
The image attached shows my 56cm CAAD4 vs this china steel frame (size L). I'd rather not be the first person to buy one of these and post my tale of despair online....any volunteers?
saverin wrote:
I punched the geometry into a frame comparator, and it looks like it compares to a typical 54cm geometry for a size L. Might not be able to slam one's stem, but it looks reasonable.
The image attached shows my 56cm CAAD4 vs this china steel frame (size L). I'd rather not be the first person to buy one of these and post my tale of despair online....any volunteers?
Ah you're right. I threw it into a spreadsheet vs a 56 caad12 and got it within a couple of mm with 45mm of steerer spacers - which incidentally is almost the difference in head tube length.
On the other hand, I can't see anyone here riding around with 45mm+ of spacers, so I still think that geometry is just weird. Or maybe 25mm and a flipped stem?
Chasse patate
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this is a pretty good looking bike... regarding sizing, that HT is insanely short
I may break down and be a test mule
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/REBORN- ... 3.1.2nZv7P
I may break down and be a test mule
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/REBORN- ... 3.1.2nZv7P
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waltthizzney wrote:this is a pretty good looking bike... regarding sizing, that HT is insanely short
I may break down and be a test mule
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/REBORN- ... 3.1.2nZv7P
If you like a longer HT, paint and fender eyelets, Ribble has a steel Reynolds 525 frameset for about the same price shipped.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-525-reynolds-audax-winter-frameset/
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I had mentioned my FM079-F build a few pages back but wanted to post again now that I have a few decent rides on it. First a better pic:
While it is impossible to isolate the frame/fork from the rest of the build, I can say that I'm overwhelmingly satisfied with the Hongfu. The frameset feels impressively solid without being harsh. I get zero sensation of flex when out of the saddle. I do not feel the oft touted 'vertical compliance', though, which is in great contrast to my old LOOK KG386i which soaked up every bump. The ride is smoothed out by the 25mm tubular tires which I'm running at lower pressure than I've ever run clinchers at (85/90 F/R). The 40mm deep rims (also from Hongfu) do catch crosswinds more than the low profile aluminum rims I've always used but it would take quite a bit of wind before it gets to be a real concern of mine. Braking is sensational at either end. Zero chatter from fork flex. I probably would be perfectly happy running a 140mm front rotor given how easily the bike stops using just the rear brake (I typically do the bulk of my braking at the front but am very impressed at the power of just the rear on this bike). Downhill, this bike flies. Uphill, the engine needs more work but the bike certainly isn't holding me back either!
More pics here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskXgYJBR
While it is impossible to isolate the frame/fork from the rest of the build, I can say that I'm overwhelmingly satisfied with the Hongfu. The frameset feels impressively solid without being harsh. I get zero sensation of flex when out of the saddle. I do not feel the oft touted 'vertical compliance', though, which is in great contrast to my old LOOK KG386i which soaked up every bump. The ride is smoothed out by the 25mm tubular tires which I'm running at lower pressure than I've ever run clinchers at (85/90 F/R). The 40mm deep rims (also from Hongfu) do catch crosswinds more than the low profile aluminum rims I've always used but it would take quite a bit of wind before it gets to be a real concern of mine. Braking is sensational at either end. Zero chatter from fork flex. I probably would be perfectly happy running a 140mm front rotor given how easily the bike stops using just the rear brake (I typically do the bulk of my braking at the front but am very impressed at the power of just the rear on this bike). Downhill, this bike flies. Uphill, the engine needs more work but the bike certainly isn't holding me back either!
More pics here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskXgYJBR
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bremerradkurier wrote:waltthizzney wrote:this is a pretty good looking bike... regarding sizing, that HT is insanely short
I may break down and be a test mule
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/REBORN- ... 3.1.2nZv7P
If you like a longer HT, paint and fender eyelets, Ribble has a steel Reynolds 525 frameset for about the same price shipped.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-525-reynolds-audax-winter-frameset/
I dont think I have ever seen a bike with a 100mm headtube...
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kidrob wrote:Woah! What a beauty! Gratz man!! What is your frame size and how long is the stem?
Thanks! It is a '50cm' frame (measured from BB to top of seat tube) but that's a pretty worthless dimension.
Some dimensions that matter are:
Head tube - 125.5mm
Top tube - 535mm
Seat tube angle - 73.8 degrees
Stack - 526mm
Reach - 382.2mm
Geometry chart for all sizes is here: http://www.hongfu-bikes.com/html_Produc ... 2/444.html
Stem is 110mm but my handlebars are super short reach (70mm, Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem II). I'm usually on a 100mm stem but the short reach of the bars had me go up a size to avoid being too cramped. For reference, I'm 5' 8.5" (174cm) tall with a 32" (81.3cm) inseam and good flexibility.
I just got my fm008 and trying to install the rear brake housing. I run the right lever as back brake but the frame is better suited for the opposite? It looks like the cable should go in from the drive side of the upper tube where I normally see the entrance on the non drive side. What do you do here?
I will just route it with a bigger circle and protect the frame better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will just route it with a bigger circle and protect the frame better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Even though I pretty much despise open mold frames, yes. .... you route the rear brake housing from the right lever on the drive side of the head tube and into the port/stop. Exit the non drive side of the top tube and into brake. A few frames are being manufactured this way now.
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spliid wrote:I just got my fm008 and trying to install the rear brake housing. I run the right lever as back brake but the frame is better suited for the opposite? It looks like the cable should go in from the drive side of the upper tube where I normally see the entrance on the non drive side. What do you do here?
I will just route it with a bigger circle and protect the frame better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can you fit 28mm tires on FM008?