Can't wait for pics!Kaboom wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 12:30 pmframe finally arrived. So far, pretty impressed with the finish, how clean the tubes are inside and the fact that the frame weight is bang-on and the fork is a full 30g lighter than promised. The included seatpost is somewhat of an anchor at 200g, as is the expander plug that comes with the headset.
Most of the components should arrive this week so hopefully I'll be riding the thing next weekend. The secondhand bora 35 tubies I bought for this build are already here.
I'm building this with red22 with ultegra cassette (100g weight penalty, but 250€ for a cassette is WAY too steep for my tastes), SISL2 cranks with 36-52 Praxis rings, schmolke bar and extralite stem, front DA9000 brake and rear Zero Gravity. I'm hoping it'll come right under 6kg because otherwise I'm not sure where i'm gonna save weight without spending several thousand more. Original budget was 2000€ and I just blew past that buying the ultegra cassette and Red chain...
Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread
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What do you guys think
Workswell 095 http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 17/13.html
or 081
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 6/127.html
Looking for aero, 095 looks more radical. However, I'm not sure that the looks actually contribute. 081 is lighter and cheaper.
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Workswell 095 http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 17/13.html
or 081
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 6/127.html
Looking for aero, 095 looks more radical. However, I'm not sure that the looks actually contribute. 081 is lighter and cheaper.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Wish granted.kidrob wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 1:01 pmCan't wait for pics!Kaboom wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 12:30 pmframe finally arrived. So far, pretty impressed with the finish, how clean the tubes are inside and the fact that the frame weight is bang-on and the fork is a full 30g lighter than promised. The included seatpost is somewhat of an anchor at 200g, as is the expander plug that comes with the headset.
Most of the components should arrive this week so hopefully I'll be riding the thing next weekend. The secondhand bora 35 tubies I bought for this build are already here.
I'm building this with red22 with ultegra cassette (100g weight penalty, but 250€ for a cassette is WAY too steep for my tastes), SISL2 cranks with 36-52 Praxis rings, schmolke bar and extralite stem, front DA9000 brake and rear Zero Gravity. I'm hoping it'll come right under 6kg because otherwise I'm not sure where i'm gonna save weight without spending several thousand more. Original budget was 2000€ and I just blew past that buying the ultegra cassette and Red chain...
i think Workswell WCB-R 136 seems to have a lot of potential,
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/148.html
-front end with all hidden cable, with separate piece stem and handlebar with decent size offering (this is the highlight)
--maybe, just maybe the headset cap might support cable entrance from other bar/stem combo as well, just like Trek's Madone's new headset cap (https://youtu.be/l1O36yr6RE8?t=6m59s)
-said to support 28c
-Truncated water bottle area is a nice touch
-have disc brake version but no picture of disc version yet.
-geometry, bb drop of 70mm bring center of gravity a tiny bit down vs many other bikes with 68mm drop
-2 smallest size have short 398mm chainstay length and long front center (partly via slack head tube angle) to conter balance it. Long front center reduce or eliminate toe overlap
however, look at those seat tube length and how high the top tube is (and lack of slope down). It is so tall that some might have problem stand over it despite stack and height work fine for them.
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/148.html
-front end with all hidden cable, with separate piece stem and handlebar with decent size offering (this is the highlight)
--maybe, just maybe the headset cap might support cable entrance from other bar/stem combo as well, just like Trek's Madone's new headset cap (https://youtu.be/l1O36yr6RE8?t=6m59s)
-said to support 28c
-Truncated water bottle area is a nice touch
-have disc brake version but no picture of disc version yet.
-geometry, bb drop of 70mm bring center of gravity a tiny bit down vs many other bikes with 68mm drop
-2 smallest size have short 398mm chainstay length and long front center (partly via slack head tube angle) to conter balance it. Long front center reduce or eliminate toe overlap
however, look at those seat tube length and how high the top tube is (and lack of slope down). It is so tall that some might have problem stand over it despite stack and height work fine for them.
-
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- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:35 pm
The question is do you trust an integrated stem and bar unit like that?Hexsense wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:52 pmi think Workswell WCB-R 136 seems to have a lot of potential,
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/148.html
-front end with all hidden cable, with separate piece stem and handlebar with decent size offering (this is the highlight)
--maybe, just maybe the headset cap might support cable entrance from other bar/stem combo as well, just like Trek's Madone's new headset cap (https://youtu.be/l1O36yr6RE8?t=6m59s)
-said to support 28c
-Truncated water bottle area is a nice touch
-have disc brake version but no picture of disc version yet.
-geometry, bb drop of 70mm bring center of gravity a tiny bit down vs many other bikes with 68mm drop
-2 smallest size have short 398mm chainstay length and long front center (partly via slack head tube angle) to conter balance it. Long front center reduce or eliminate toe overlap
however, look at those seat tube length and how high the top tube is (and lack of slope down). It is so tall that some might have problem stand over it despite stack and height work fine for them.
i am liking this new frame they showed recently.. waiting on more details
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 5/176.html
This looks cool too
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/149.html
yeah well, FM 166 is good. Shorter seat tube than the 136.waltthizzney wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:17 amThe question is do you trust an integrated stem and bar unit like that?Hexsense wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:52 pmi think Workswell WCB-R 136 seems to have a lot of potential,
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/148.html
-front end with all hidden cable, with separate piece stem and handlebar with decent size offering (this is the highlight)
--maybe, just maybe the headset cap might support cable entrance from other bar/stem combo as well, just like Trek's Madone's new headset cap (https://youtu.be/l1O36yr6RE8?t=6m59s)
-said to support 28c
-Truncated water bottle area is a nice touch
-have disc brake version but no picture of disc version yet.
-geometry, bb drop of 70mm bring center of gravity a tiny bit down vs many other bikes with 68mm drop
-2 smallest size have short 398mm chainstay length and long front center (partly via slack head tube angle) to conter balance it. Long front center reduce or eliminate toe overlap
however, look at those seat tube length and how high the top tube is (and lack of slope down). It is so tall that some might have problem stand over it despite stack and height work fine for them.
i am liking this new frame they showed recently.. waiting on more details
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 5/176.html
This looks cool too
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/149.html
But size 52 FM166 is not better than the 136 size 52 for other aspect, it already got head tube angle of 72.6 degree. Big jump up from size 44,46,49. Hence FM136 's longer Front end will make front wheel clear my toe more effectively. Plus FM136 is 7mm shorter in the rear end too.
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- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:35 pm
do you remember which frame some members were having trouble with their stems from workswell?Hexsense wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:48 amyeah well, FM 166 is good. Shorter seat tube than the 136.waltthizzney wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:17 amThe question is do you trust an integrated stem and bar unit like that?Hexsense wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:52 pmi think Workswell WCB-R 136 seems to have a lot of potential,
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/148.html
-front end with all hidden cable, with separate piece stem and handlebar with decent size offering (this is the highlight)
--maybe, just maybe the headset cap might support cable entrance from other bar/stem combo as well, just like Trek's Madone's new headset cap (https://youtu.be/l1O36yr6RE8?t=6m59s)
-said to support 28c
-Truncated water bottle area is a nice touch
-have disc brake version but no picture of disc version yet.
-geometry, bb drop of 70mm bring center of gravity a tiny bit down vs many other bikes with 68mm drop
-2 smallest size have short 398mm chainstay length and long front center (partly via slack head tube angle) to conter balance it. Long front center reduce or eliminate toe overlap
however, look at those seat tube length and how high the top tube is (and lack of slope down). It is so tall that some might have problem stand over it despite stack and height work fine for them.
i am liking this new frame they showed recently.. waiting on more details
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 5/176.html
This looks cool too
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 8/149.html
But size 52 FM166 is not better than the 136 size 52 for other aspect, it already got head tube angle of 72.6 degree. Big jump up from size 44,46,49. Hence FM136 's longer Front end will make front wheel clear my toe more effectively. Plus FM136 is 7mm shorter in the rear end too.
what do you think of this frame?
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 17/13.html
Yes it is that one.waltthizzney wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:19 am
do you remember which frame some members were having trouble with their stems from workswell?
what do you think of this frame?
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 17/13.html
Chainstay length is nice and short. No disc version.
Front center is not extra long despite long reach of many sizes... i wonder if geometry is accurate at all, look at size 52 vs 54, it gain 3mm longer wheel base despite not any longer Front Center and Rear Center... where is extra length come from?
size 49 have Stack too low and reach is far too long for the size,
size 52 already get -73 headtube angle, that is so normal (not 71 or 72 which will clear toe overlap better), and yet reach is also a bit long.
size 54 and up are fine.
-
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:35 pm
Yeah i get what you mean. I have been riding an FM066/R-02 from Tan Tan for a year and it has been incredible considering the price. This is their aero frame I considered but the jump in TT length was to large. I needed a 535mm roughlyHexsense wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:41 amYes it is that one.waltthizzney wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:19 am
do you remember which frame some members were having trouble with their stems from workswell?
what do you think of this frame?
http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ ... 17/13.html
Chainstay length is nice and short. No disc version.
Front center is not extra long despite long reach of many sizes... i wonder if geometry is accurate at all, look at size 52 vs 54, it gain 3mm longer wheel base despite not any longer Front Center and Rear Center... where is extra length come from?
size 49 have Stack too low and reach is far too long for the size,
size 52 already get -73 headtube angle, that is so normal (not 71 or 72 which will clear toe overlap better), and yet reach is also a bit long.
size 54 and up are fine.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php? ... w&p_id=520
I do not get the geometry of that bike. Isn’t it super long and low?waltthizzney wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:19 am
,
Yeah i get what you mean. I have been riding an FM066/R-02 from Tan Tan for a year and it has been incredible considering the price. This is their aero frame I considered but the jump in TT length was to large. I needed a 535mm roughly
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php? ... w&p_id=520
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:35 pm
the FM066 is the exact same as the supersix.slippy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:36 pmI do not get the geometry of that bike. Isn’t it super long and low?waltthizzney wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:19 am
,
Yeah i get what you mean. I have been riding an FM066/R-02 from Tan Tan for a year and it has been incredible considering the price. This is their aero frame I considered but the jump in TT length was to large. I needed a 535mm roughly
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php? ... w&p_id=520
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I meant the Tantan one in the link, Tt-x1, 424 reach 542 stack for a size Mwaltthizzney wrote:the FM066 is the exact same as the supersix.slippy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:36 pmI do not get the geometry of that bike. Isn’t it super long and low?waltthizzney wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:19 am
,
Yeah i get what you mean. I have been riding an FM066/R-02 from Tan Tan for a year and it has been incredible considering the price. This is their aero frame I considered but the jump in TT length was to large. I needed a 535mm roughly
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php? ... w&p_id=520
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Ok so i'm gonna assemble the whole thing tomorrow (was supposed to be today, but got delayed due to courier service's astonishing incompetence) and it's my first time doing internal cable routing. I have a big question.
In these open mold frames, the LongTeng LTK118 specifically if possible, do the outers run all the way through the frame or do they stop at the entry ports, then have the bare cable run inside the frame, and start again at the exit ports till they reach the component?
I hope I'm making myself clear, it sounded a lot more straightforward in my head...
Also there are white guides already installed in the frame. I'm guesing that is ONLY to do the initial guiding of the cable, and that if it's only the cable and not the outer that runs through the frame the guides should be removed? Obviously it does need to be removed if it's the whole outer that goes through the frame...
Thanks a bunch!
In these open mold frames, the LongTeng LTK118 specifically if possible, do the outers run all the way through the frame or do they stop at the entry ports, then have the bare cable run inside the frame, and start again at the exit ports till they reach the component?
I hope I'm making myself clear, it sounded a lot more straightforward in my head...
Also there are white guides already installed in the frame. I'm guesing that is ONLY to do the initial guiding of the cable, and that if it's only the cable and not the outer that runs through the frame the guides should be removed? Obviously it does need to be removed if it's the whole outer that goes through the frame...
Thanks a bunch!
Typically, the outers do not run through the frame, it's just the bare cable inside. One exemption I have seen is for the rear brake cable, here it might be beneficial to do full outer, if the frame allows for that. You can test it on a given frame by checking if the diameter of the cable entry is large enough to pass cable outer, particularly if the entries are molded into the frame. Frames where the entry is a little plastic bit that clips in this method might not be reliable because the chinese have mixed that up in the past and put in plastic guides that allow outer to pass where it was meant to be stopped.
The transparent guides are indeed only for the cable install and should be removed *AFTER* you have installed the cable. Do not throw those away, cables are a consumable so when the time comes to replace them you can first slip these transparent guides back on, doing internal routing without them is a massive pain.
The transparent guides are indeed only for the cable install and should be removed *AFTER* you have installed the cable. Do not throw those away, cables are a consumable so when the time comes to replace them you can first slip these transparent guides back on, doing internal routing without them is a massive pain.
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Great, thanks! Everything is more or less as I was expecting then.lockxchg wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:05 pmTypically, the outers do not run through the frame, it's just the bare cable inside. One exemption I have seen is for the rear brake cable, here it might be beneficial to do full outer, if the frame allows for that. You can test it on a given frame by checking if the diameter of the cable entry is large enough to pass cable outer, particularly if the entries are molded into the frame. Frames where the entry is a little plastic bit that clips in this method might not be reliable because the chinese have mixed that up in the past and put in plastic guides that allow outer to pass where it was meant to be stopped.
The transparent guides are indeed only for the cable install and should be removed *AFTER* you have installed the cable. Do not throw those away, cables are a consumable so when the time comes to replace them you can first slip these transparent guides back on, doing internal routing without them is a massive pain.
I just found out another bunch of my parts also got delayed in the mail, so now i'm doubting I'll be able to put the whole bike together tomorrow and test it this weekend. I'm really, really pissed at the generalized incompetence of the courier industry in this country. Everything that is late was supposed to arrive either tuesday, yesterday or today, so some of them are going to be 3 days late. The frustration mounts...