Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Slcbrandon, could you tell me where you bought those bottle cages? I can't seem to find any place to buy them..
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trychle wrote:Slcbrandon, could you tell me where you bought those bottle cages? I can't seem to find any place to buy them..
PM me, my brother has quite a few of them and I can get you his contact information.
I don't, but when you order through Velobuild there's a check box for extra dropouts.
They're cheap that way.
They're cheap that way.
Just a datapoint. Rec'd my 50cm SL frame from Hongfu gand have it built w/ DA7800. Haven't weighed the complete bike yet, but the frame itself came in at a respectable 836g and the fork at 359g. The seatpost was a bit porky at around 230, will probably find something lighter, have a Bold Ti one but am hesitant to use it on an all black bike.
Build was no drama, frame finish is pretty nice. Internal cable routing a typical pain, not looking forward to replacement.
Also purchased the integrated bar and stem, unfortunately forgot to weigh it.
Wait was around a month, but that was mostly due to the bars, supposedly.
Will ride it today and report back.
Build was no drama, frame finish is pretty nice. Internal cable routing a typical pain, not looking forward to replacement.
Also purchased the integrated bar and stem, unfortunately forgot to weigh it.
Wait was around a month, but that was mostly due to the bars, supposedly.
Will ride it today and report back.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
A quick question for any owners of this frame: has anyone fitted a set of Hed Stinger 6's in this bike, or alternatively could someone put a set of calipers to the fork and chainstays in the area of the brake track? I'm considering picking up one of these frames, but I need to make sure that a 28mm wide rim can fit in there. Thanks!
@glepore though a bit late now, you should use a cable set with a line such as gore -it makes future maintenance much easier.
@jwts not tried a hed, but did try a 404fc(wide rim) and a campy neutron (wide spoke angle), both were fine with a 6700 caliper. Used a 25c gp4000 clincher for the zipp check.
@jwts not tried a hed, but did try a 404fc(wide rim) and a campy neutron (wide spoke angle), both were fine with a 6700 caliper. Used a 25c gp4000 clincher for the zipp check.
I used jagwire-nice kit complete w/ ferrules, endcaps etc. Issue isn't with the housing, its having to remove the frame caps and then grab the cable with a hemostat or something, particularly a pain at the bb area, as replace one derailleur cable means removing both.
Just rode the bike. Initial impressions are that the back end is uber comfortable-very compliant for how "sporty" the bike handles. The front end is very stiff, maybe a bit much in comparison to the rear. The steering is very quick, whether its too quick is a matter of taste. Didn't descend with it, so not sure how surefooted it is. It does accelerate noticeably quickly, particularly up little power rises.
It seems like quite a bargain for what it is, but time will tell.
I'll try to remember to check clearances tonight when I adjust the fit-I've got some that are 25mm on the way, so yeah, I guess I should check.
Just rode the bike. Initial impressions are that the back end is uber comfortable-very compliant for how "sporty" the bike handles. The front end is very stiff, maybe a bit much in comparison to the rear. The steering is very quick, whether its too quick is a matter of taste. Didn't descend with it, so not sure how surefooted it is. It does accelerate noticeably quickly, particularly up little power rises.
It seems like quite a bargain for what it is, but time will tell.
I'll try to remember to check clearances tonight when I adjust the fit-I've got some that are 25mm on the way, so yeah, I guess I should check.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
I used an old spoke to grab the cables through the access ports. Doesn't seem that difficult. I think you can keep both der cables in the frame when replacing one, just loosen the other to get some slack so you can remove the plate.
I concur with your comments on the ride. The steering is slightly slower than my Cervelo R3SL. It descends fine but I seem to be ok with a wide range of handling on descents. I thought my Vitus 979 was fine too, just don't make any sudden moves.
You might want to put some padding on the rear brake cable inside the frame. I didn't and mine rattles on the frame. I need to remove it and add some rubber donuts or similar.
There's a good amount of tire clearance on the frame.
Has anyone mounted a Quark on a BB30 one of these yet? Where'd you put the magnet?
I concur with your comments on the ride. The steering is slightly slower than my Cervelo R3SL. It descends fine but I seem to be ok with a wide range of handling on descents. I thought my Vitus 979 was fine too, just don't make any sudden moves.
You might want to put some padding on the rear brake cable inside the frame. I didn't and mine rattles on the frame. I need to remove it and add some rubber donuts or similar.
There's a good amount of tire clearance on the frame.
Has anyone mounted a Quark on a BB30 one of these yet? Where'd you put the magnet?
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I've got a Quarq on mine. I put the magnet just under the bottom bracket area, glued with a little epoxy glue.
I used to have it on the chain stay near the bottom bracket, but clearance was pretty tight in there, and it eventually fell off.
Check my intro thread here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=113843
I used to have it on the chain stay near the bottom bracket, but clearance was pretty tight in there, and it eventually fell off.
Check my intro thread here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=113843
JWTS- about 40mm at the bottom of the brake track, front and rear.
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