Just picked up a new pair of Gaerne Chronos and noticed that the heels hit the chain stays with use of the gray Look clips. They also will rub the crank arms unless I keep my feet straight. Is there a fix for this.? I love the shoes, but wth?!?
Coming off the S-Works shoes with the same clip and had no issues with the allowable float.

That is just the way your body is. If you can do it, setting-up a zero-float pedal will prevent too much motion and may prevent heel-strikes.

Rotate the position of the cleat so that your foot encounters resistance before it can contact the crank arm. also, you can simply move the cleat towards the inside edge of the shoe, which will move the entire shoe away from the arm.
But first...
You should try to determine the direction your feet want to point naturally. there are a couple ways to do it. you can sit on a tall chair, back up n straight, feet hanging down, with approx 6inches between your knees and the same between your ankles. if your toes point out, they should point out on the bike. If your toes point in, yada yada....
as for how far apart your feet should be, there are a lot of factors involved. Keeping it simple, most people with a bow to the legs would benefit from a slightly wider stance width, knock kneed folks and very neutral people like a narrower stance. If you stand with your ankles together and feet pointing forward and your knees don't touch or almost touch, you've got a bit of a bow.
Before I keep going, let's see where that gets you.
Greg.

Thanks for taking the time to post that.
I will do it and report back

Sitting in the chair, my heels go outward and the toes inward. Nothing crazy. Standing with my ankles together and feet forward, my knees touch each other.

The red cleats have too much float for my liking. The gray is perfect and the black I've never used bc I feel there should be a little movement and may cause me unforeseeable issues.

Your toes point inward with your feet hanging, they should point similarly when on the pedals. You should loosen the cleat and move the BACK part of the cleat towards the INSIDE of the shoe. that will position the BACK part of the shoe towards the OUTSIDE of the bike, aka toes in. Small adjustments make big differences in how it feels for your feet. Then with your foot clipped in and the crank arm backward, see if your foot can still strike the stay. More importantly, go for an easy spin with your 3mm Allen wrench and some patience. If you ever feel like your foot is up against the limit of the pedal's free float during your pedal stroke, stop and make a cleat position adjustment. If you pause your pedaling at any point in your pedal stroke, you should be able to rotate your foot a little to either side.
Sorry for the convoluted response, it's late here and I've run out of attention span.

You may also be a good candidate for Arch support through insoles (e-soles suppoertive or G8), and specifically some varus support under you heel within the shoe.

It is possible under load your foot arch is dropping and your heel is dropping and rotating inward (toward the cranks).

I suggest you investiagte the need for arch support and varus wedging. These links may help understand the issue;-
http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blo ... superfeet/

So I m reading that with ur old S-Works shoes u didn't experience any rubbing on crank or chain stays but with new shoes u do? The solution is quite obvious, u simply need to match the position ur cleats were mounted in on ur old shoes. Unless the new shoes are significantly wider at ur heels then there is no reason why u would experience rubbing if you match the same position as before. em3

_________________
________________

My 2011 Cervelo R5

Appreciate the input guys.
I like the cleat to be centered with the mounting holes as they were on my old S-Works. I mounted in the same fashion on the Chronos. Looking at the S-Works and Chronos side by side, the exterior part of the heel on the Chronos is larger.
I moved the rear of the cleat as far inward as possible and the front of the cleat outward. Its solved the problem. My foot is slightly "toed in" but I notice when I'm in effort, my feet are straightening out, thus putting the cleat at max float but not to the point it wants to disengage.

The S-Works shoes would have had 1.5 degrees of varus tilt built into them that you are probably missing with the Gaerne shoes. Location of cleat holes can vary widely from one shoe to another, so visually matching how they were set up on your old shoes based on cleat holes may result in a very different position. I would say that if you are at the limit of your available float under effort you might want to keep working on cleat position. I'm of the opinion that you should have some movement to either side of where your foot naturally rests, otherwise you are forcing yourself into a position different than what your body wants to be in.

As others have mentioned, you may need to add some of the features that the s-works shoe already has.
1.) Arch support. Arch support is so good on the S-works shoes that many riders end up not using their custom insoles.
I suggest some sort of supportive insole for you.
2.) Varus wedge. Specialized has varus wedge built-in. Might need to put a wedge under each cleat.
3.) Cleat position. Every shoe is different. Often times even lef and right shoe from same pair. You can't use visual inspection or matching up what looks to be the same. Need to setup in the spot that puts ball of foot relative to pedal spindle that is best for you.
4.) Width. The shoes may have an effective stance width difference due to design of the shoe or placement of hte cleat holes. Sounds like you need to be wider. Move cleats more towards inside of shoe (to move foot more outboard). If you need more than this add pedal spacers. Need more than this- investigate a pedal with a wider axle.

Get a pair of Speedplays. Set zero float inward and much float as you like outward.

_________________
Caad10 with Campagnolo

This. Almost everyone needs WAY more arch support for riding than they think. You should not use the cleat rotation to force your foot away from its natural angle--that's a recipe for injury. The way to approach it is to provide sufficient arch support, then canting if necessary.

As others have said--cleats should be positioned such that your foot's natural position is in the middle of the available float. I suspect you'll find your heels moving away from the chainstays and lining up straight after you deal with your arch support and canting needs.

You could also get some look pedal spacers to increase your q factor.

_________________
Evo 5.63kg SL3 7.045kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;