Dura Ace 9000 or Hope Mono RS for Pacenti SL23 build?
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Dura Ace 9000 of course they are one of the best along with Campag record (32H only) and Royce hubs.
If you have not considered royce they are silver (and a lush satin finish) and made in the U.K. A bit pricey but really excellent.
If you have not considered royce they are silver (and a lush satin finish) and made in the U.K. A bit pricey but really excellent.
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I choose DA9000 for my Pacenti build - pictures & weights
Last edited by dmoneysworks on Fri Feb 07, 2014 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
dmoneysworks wrote:I choose DA9000 for my Pacenti build - pictures & weights
Nil found via link (and couldn't find on site either)
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Sorry I've edited and fixed the link now.
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@dmoneysworks - Are you pleased with the wheels? I have been pondering the same build and spoke count. Interested in any feedback. Thanks.
My cycling blog: http://girodilento.com/
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It's hard to go wrong with the DA hubs. They are consistently durable and super easy to service when that time finally does come. A good alternative to those may be the T11s from White Industries. Similar durability to the DAs all though they use a sealed cartridge bearing instead of the cup and cone style. They do come in a myriad of colors too which you won't get with the DAs.
Concerning the hole count 24/28 should be just find for your weight. I'm just under 100kg and I'm riding SL23s in a 20/28 no problem at all. With regards to the lacing it really depends on what hole count you settle with but 2x both sides on the rear is ideal for a 28h. The front is far less important with regards to lacing. Radial, 1x, and 2x will all be perfectly suitable so that one really just comes down to aesthetics.
Concerning the hole count 24/28 should be just find for your weight. I'm just under 100kg and I'm riding SL23s in a 20/28 no problem at all. With regards to the lacing it really depends on what hole count you settle with but 2x both sides on the rear is ideal for a 28h. The front is far less important with regards to lacing. Radial, 1x, and 2x will all be perfectly suitable so that one really just comes down to aesthetics.
bm0p700f wrote:Dura Ace 9000 of course they are one of the best along with Campag record (32H only) and Royce hubs.
If you have not considered royce they are silver (and a lush satin finish) and made in the U.K. A bit pricey but really excellent.
Just looking at the Royce hubs I can't see why anyone would choose them over anything else? Its just a heavy, expensive sealed bearing hub. If I wanted an expensive sealed bearing hub I would buy a DT Swiss hub for their ease of service.
I would take a 9000 hub over both because I love loose ball hubs, but for some reason shimano does not make a 20h front hub.
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Why royce, ti free hub body precison machining of the bearing seats, stainless steel axle, 6001 NTN bearings, satin polished shells, no special tools needed for service, need I say more. If you think 435g for a hub pair is heavy then there is no hope is there. Hub weight (with in reason) is an irrelevance to how how a wheel feels.
Also Cliff will do odd drillings like 2:1 lacing hubs and you can ask for the flange positions to be anywhere you like.
I am having some of there Ti/carbon hubs made in 2:1 lacing (24H) for the rear but I am having the NDS flange pushed out to 43mm and the DS flange is at 19.5mm from centre. Who else does that? I am thinking of Enve 45mm tubulars now (the light ones) wheelset weight will be 1270g or therabouts you can't call that heavy can you.
Also Cliff will do odd drillings like 2:1 lacing hubs and you can ask for the flange positions to be anywhere you like.
I am having some of there Ti/carbon hubs made in 2:1 lacing (24H) for the rear but I am having the NDS flange pushed out to 43mm and the DS flange is at 19.5mm from centre. Who else does that? I am thinking of Enve 45mm tubulars now (the light ones) wheelset weight will be 1270g or therabouts you can't call that heavy can you.
dmoneysworks wrote:Sorry I've edited and fixed the link now.
Thanks - nice pics!
Have rims and hoping hubs arrive tomorrow (DHL promise permitting). Then just need to measure up ( noob that I am, I can't work out flange spacing from Shimano specs ) and I can order the spokes and I'm good to go. Getting quite excited at my first DIY wheelset attempt!
Zen Cyclery wrote: The front is far less important with regards to lacing. Radial, 1x, and 2x will all be perfectly suitable so that one really just comes down to aesthetics.
Can I use radial 'heads in' ( for bracing angle) or would 'heads out' (for aesthetics) be better?
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@giro di lento - Zen Cyclery pretty much covered everything technical you'd ever need to know (nicely stated!)
I went 2x all round due to aesthetics, and probably would have gone a 20/28 if I could have gotten a front DA hub with that hole count. Wheel build is lovely and well da hubs just roll so darn nicely and thats why I choose them over the myriad of other options... I say you've be very happy as I am with the build.
I went 2x all round due to aesthetics, and probably would have gone a 20/28 if I could have gotten a front DA hub with that hole count. Wheel build is lovely and well da hubs just roll so darn nicely and thats why I choose them over the myriad of other options... I say you've be very happy as I am with the build.
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Svetty wrote:dmoneysworks wrote:Can I use radial 'heads in' ( for bracing angle) or would 'heads out' (for aesthetics) be better?
You could go radial heads in to improve your bracing angle. Keep in mind though that radial is notorious for putting additional stress on the hub flange and going heads in will only exacerbate this. 95% of the time I build radial heads out. It's sufficiently stiff for most builds and IMO its more aesthetically appealing.
Have built up rear today. Seems to have been straightforward for my first effort. Only reservation is regarding spoke tensions: DS approx 125kgf, NDS 62kgf according to Park meter. Is this in line with expectations? Dish is v slightly out to NDS but I'm reluctant to increase DS tension or reduce NDS for the sake of a mm. Is this OK or should I try to get it closer to dead centre and accept sl higher DS or lower NDS tensions?
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