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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:59 am 
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I can't remember setting up an un-anodized rim tubeless until setting up road tubeless.
Perhaps that is the problem? Un-anodized aluminum reacting with the Stans.
(I have never seen caffe latex corrode a rim like that, even on a road tubeless setup)

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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:59 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Those rims are likely aluminum-scandium alloy.

CerveloMikey wrote:
I have a set of DA 7850 Scandium wheels that have zero corrosion.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:58 pm 
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Here's my data points:

WH-7900 TLs = corrosion. Silver, un-anodized rim

WH-7850SL/WH-6700 = no corrosion. Same tires, same quart of stans, same mounting procedure. Both the 7850 SL and 6700 have a black anodized finish on the rim bed, and show no corrosion.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:50 pm 
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aaric wrote:
Here's my data points:...WH-7900 TLs = corrosion. Silver, un-anodized rim...


I have these as well, also used Stan's 1-2 oz. My experience is some discoloration but no real loss of metal. Changing out the Stan's and cleaning the rim occasionally can't hurt.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:20 pm 
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The trouble I run into is: what's a suitable alternative?

I've had very poor luck with cafelatex doing an effective job @ sealing. I'm also a skeptic of orange seal when it comes to high pressure: when I ran it in a MTB tire, it didn't seal holes that stan's would no problem.

Those on road tubeless: what sealant would you recommend?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:17 am 
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Dura Ace + Stan's = bad idea, stans ate my rims
Dura Ace + Hutch Fast'air = read somewhere that this is the only sealant Shimano recommends, cant find the reference now. doesnt work as good as stans though
Dura Ace + Cafe Latex = better, although i read that some people still had pitting. unsure if this was caused by Stan's before the users switched.
Fulcrum 1 + Stan's = no issues experienced personally

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:52 pm 
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Has anyone else noticed that Stan's NOTUBES is located in thw town of Big Flats (New York)?

http://www.notubes.com/ContactUs.aspx


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:04 pm 
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Years ago ironically my car completely shut down on the highway passing by Big Flats. One moment I'm doing 60 mph the next I'm coasting into the side of the road.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:56 pm 
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Fwiw running 2 sets of zonda's tubeless for 2 year w a bit of stan's, not enough to plug a hole but just enough to get a good seal. My zondas have the black ano inside. So far so good, but I'll prob check more regularly after seeing this. Also running fusion 3's.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:53 am 
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Leonard Zinn wrote about this issue a couple of years ago at VeloNews- I don't have the link handy, but if you search the site, you'll find the article. As I recall, although he didn't say so in so many words, the only sealant that he recommended is CaffeeLatex.
My personal experience- I bought a pair of DA 7850 c24's on the auction site oh, maybe 18 months ago. They came mounted with Tubeless Fusions and the Stan's sealant conversion kit (the wheels were the CL's- so 3 layers of Stan's tape and Stan's sealant installed). It was not one of the best purchases that I've ever made on the 'Bay- one of the tires started leaking sealant as soon as I pumped it up, so I decided to unmount the tires and install regular clinchers and tubes; I was quite dismayed at the amount of corrosion on the rim bed, and even the spoke nipples had a little ball of corrosion on top of each nipple. Not quite as bad as CerveloMikey's photo, but real close. I cleaned up the rims with a green scotch pad and some alcohol, and inspected the clincher bead closely, and decided that they were safe, and rode them for several months, but I was never quite comfortable on them- they're sitting in my garage now.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 11:45 am 
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Location: Romania
Even though I use tubeless solutions for years, such as Joe's, Stans, BOR/FRM, I never had a problem with my rims because of this.

And by the way, I am bit curious. Why would you go tubeless on road with 8-9 bar in the tires? I prefer tubeless with low pressures to avoid snake bites...

The way that the sealant "coagulated" on Mikey's rim happened to me too but only on the tires, if I don't use the wheel for more 2-3 months...


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:23 pm 
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I run tubeless on all my bikes (road, TT & mountain). I have, thankfully, never seen this issue (where's that wood to knock on...). However, the guy who got me into tubeless had an issue with his first set of Shimano wheels. I believe they were DA7800 series wheels with the raw aluminum finish (not black annodized). His wheels were pitted within a couple of months of use, and he eventually sold them off. His next set of wheels (another set of DA7800 wheels, but the "tubeless" variety, with black annodizing) did not suffer this issue, after two years of tubeless duty. Both wheels used Hutchinson Fusion or Intensive tires and Stan's sealant.

I have lately switched over to my own "homebrew" sealant, which I hope will continue my good fortune in this aspect. It's two parts Stan's to one part Slime sealant. I just don't find Stan's to be effective for sealing anything beyond a pinprick on the tires, while Slime is just too thick. However, between the two, they provide good sealing and can patch slightly larger cuts. I recently had a 1/4" (6mm) cut on my front wheel, but the sealant kept about 40psi (3bar) until I pulled over at a store to put a tube in.

Vlad, to answer your question, tubeless road tires allow you to run lower tire pressures without risk of a pinch flat. This also has the added benefit of having a slightly larger contact patch to the ground, and dulling out some of the road buzz. If you ride somewhere with great quality roads, it isn't much of an issue. However, where I ride, the quality of the roadway is very poor, with a lot of substandard material used patch and pave the road. Tubeless provides an improvement to the road. The trade off may be a slight elevation in rolling resistance, but nothing I have noticed in my rides.

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