Is Dura Ace 7900 only mediocre?
Moderator: robbosmans
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Something to note about Red: The new model with the Yaw FD doesn't have the mushy titanium cage that Red Black had, so it performs about 5800x better.
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So is the 7900 shifting components still strong enough for racing? Is it hard to keep adjusted?
yep, these show up in the pro tour so i guess they're good enough for the rest of us. aside from some barrel adjustment, i never had to do any major adjustments with mine.
PSM wrote:aerozy wrote:7900 works fine but its more sensitive to friction than other groups, meaning over time any added wear in the drivetrain or cables and the shifting will degrade faster. I always notice that if I ride consecutive days in bad weather conditions the shifting usually goes to shit.
Are you serious?
You bet I am. Have you ridden 7800? Have you ridden 7900? Now tell me which shifts better even out of the shop. Now ride both in bad weather conditions. You'll be tweaking the cable tension on the 7900 after only a few rides while you wont feel the need to touch the 7800 for months.
Of course that a well maintained 7900group shifts well enough for racing. Thats not my point. My point is its more finicky. Ok it takes 30s to clear the dirt from the cables but why do I have to that to begin with? Again 7800 ... throw it in a mud pit and it still shifts well on end. fewwwwww
Factor O2 Rim / Winspace 1500 Disk / Yoeleo R6 Rim / Cervelo S2 Rim
I can confirm that I'm on the barrel adjusters quite frequently at the start of a ride with the 7900. But my setup is not pure with the Nokon and Red cassette. This is the case on all my bikes that have Nokon cables, I shall forego them for the next build, to check.
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX
aerozy wrote:PSM wrote:aerozy wrote:7900 works fine but its more sensitive to friction than other groups, meaning over time any added wear in the drivetrain or cables and the shifting will degrade faster. I always notice that if I ride consecutive days in bad weather conditions the shifting usually goes to shit.
Are you serious?
You bet I am. Have you ridden 7800? Have you ridden 7900? Now tell me which shifts better even out of the shop. Now ride both in bad weather conditions. You'll be tweaking the cable tension on the 7900 after only a few rides while you wont feel the need to touch the 7800 for months.
Of course that a well maintained 7900group shifts well enough for racing. Thats not my point. My point is its more finicky. Ok it takes 30s to clear the dirt from the cables but why do I have to that to begin with? Again 7800 ... throw it in a mud pit and it still shifts well on end. fewwwwww
I rode 7800 for 2 years and 7900 for 2 as well. Biggest difference is the better breaking power for the latter.
Hi guys, I wanted to update you with my bike that I put 7900 on. The 7900 was the right way to go in my opinion although it did start falling apart recently....I guess I shift too much.
It is a non-branded frame that says Champion System on it. I have no idea what it is but it rides totally fine. I've been racing on Stans NoTubes prototype carbon wheels and I can say now they are race proven. I podiumed at the Tour de Beauce Mt. Meganitic stage with them. I came oh so close to winning the stage. I'm still kicking myself. 5th overall at the end of the week.
I dont know the weight for the bike but it is not that light but not heavy either, its a race bike so we can't make it that light any way.
It is a non-branded frame that says Champion System on it. I have no idea what it is but it rides totally fine. I've been racing on Stans NoTubes prototype carbon wheels and I can say now they are race proven. I podiumed at the Tour de Beauce Mt. Meganitic stage with them. I came oh so close to winning the stage. I'm still kicking myself. 5th overall at the end of the week.
I dont know the weight for the bike but it is not that light but not heavy either, its a race bike so we can't make it that light any way.
mattcooke wrote:Hi guys, I wanted to update you with my bike that I put 7900 on. The 7900 was the right way to go in my opinion although it did start falling apart recently....I guess I shift too much.
It is a non-branded frame that says Champion System on it. I have no idea what it is but it rides totally fine. I've been racing on Stans NoTubes prototype carbon wheels and I can say now they are race proven. I podiumed at the Tour de Beauce Mt. Meganitic stage with them. I came oh so close to winning the stage. I'm still kicking myself. 5th overall at the end of the week.
I dont know the weight for the bike but it is not that light but not heavy either, its a race bike so we can't make it that light any way.
Ouch! Mixing SRAM with D-A? The best with D-A is certainly the stiff crank...
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matt good job at beuce! been following the coverage just via steep hill and dan chab's tumblr. I am always hopefully for a D.C native to do well in big races! =)