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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:30 am 
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Posts: 5
Hi, wonder if anyone had similar experience with Dura-ace 9000 as me.
My chain refuses to switch to smallest cog-wheel of the cassette, when cycling (but can do it when bike is on the stand).

It happens regardless of whether I'm using small or large chainring of my crankset.
Rear derailleur setting is fine. I'm pretty good at tuning.

With zero load (bike on stand) switching works (not instantly, but it does). When riding (even with small pressure on my pedals) chain makes rattling noise, but refuses to go to smallest cog-wheel.

I re-assembled cables twice, changed caps on the cable housing, made sure there is no friction anywhere. Problem persists.

Gear cable for DA-9000 rear derailleur is designed with very sharp angle at tightening bolt. I was surprised when I got it and suspected a problem. Well, it happened to me, but I have not found other references on the web. Is my rear derailleur faulty? What else could it be...

Shifting to all other cog-wheels of my cassette is fine, except the smallest cog.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:40 am 
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do you have a directional shimano chain? is it oriented correctly with the solid outer plates facing outwards? (I've had a similar issue and this was the fix)

i know you said you are familiar with setup but have you tried setting the limit a tad lower?

is your hanger possibly bent?


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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:40 am 
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:59 am 
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hi, thank you for such a quick reply.

yup, my chain is installed with wording facing outwards.

yes, i tried to loosen tightening bolt of rear derailleur, the one controlling how far towards smallest cog RD moves. I loosen it as much as I could. If I loosen any further, chain starts to rattle.

I am not sure if hanger is bent. is there a way to check it?
Thank U


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:25 am 
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my rear derailleur bolt which controls chain tension is also loosen to maximum


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:37 am 
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I just learnt about such thing as misalignment of derailleur hanger. I will try at and see if it resolves my problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWiMcqR6e3w


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:44 am 
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Derailleurs have high and low limit screws.
With high limit screw, you should align the upper derailleur pulley 1-2mm outside of the smallest cog.

But you said that you did this, and when you do it more, you have problems more.
So in that case, I would remove my chain and RD, and start setting the derailleur from the very beginning.

1. Checking hanger. Mostly they tend to bend inside. When you look from behind, you usually can see it and can correct it with an adjustable wrench.
2. High and low limit alignment without chain and cable.
3. Up and down alignment. (3rd screw on derailleur)
4. Checking chain length and installing chain
5. Making the cable alignment, tensioning.
6. Going on ride and with ferrule adjuster final fine tuning.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 1:22 pm 
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djust limit screw

Get rid of spacer between cassete and hub S


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:25 pm 
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Sounds like a derailleur hanger/limit screw/hub spacer or incorrectly assembled cassette or too high cable tension problem. Just go back to basics, getting someone to check the rd hanger first. This will be a simple problem, we have all been there and slapped ourselves afterwards.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:45 pm 
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Location: The Taint of the USA!
I've had the same problem, off and on. I've been able to narrow the problem down to a loose cassette. Where I ride, we have a lot of chip and seal pavement, which does a number on bolts. I usually have to retighten everything about once a month or so. When I notice that i can't shift into my small cog, it means that the retaining ring on the cassette is a little too loose. If I don't pay attention to it, the cassette will start ticking and shifting poorly.

So, like I said, try retightening the cassette retaining ring.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:04 pm 
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also, check the dish of the wheel. i had that issue once and my hanger was slightly off. had it realigned and it was fine afterwards. like others have said....check the cassette for tightness and check if you really need the spacer.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:15 am 
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Thank you guys for plentiful feedback. Now I have work to do to follow your check list :). It may take a while. Will let you know how it goes. Keep my fingers crossed.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:33 am 
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I have seen a frame with a hanger so thin that the derailleur wasn't capable of moving over enough to get into the lowest cog reliably. Check to see if any threads of the derailleur are exposed on the inside of the hanger, that is often a good sign - I had to use a washer in the previously mentioned case to space the derailleur out. Further, some hubs place the cassette really close to the dropout, wouldn't be surprised to see this in more 11sp converted hubs that may not move the cassette far enough towards the centre of the hub.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:25 pm 
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Luminous -did you ever get this resolved, and has anybody else had this problem with Dura Ace 9000 being reluctant to switch to the smallest rear cog on the road?

I'm having the same issue. Have adjusted limit screws, replaced hanger (confirmed new is straight), cassette, chain, and cables all with Shimano spec and still have the same problem. Also swapped wheels and still have same issue. Rear shifts are ok in repair stand, but doesn't want to go into the 11 tooth cog when riding on the road.

Expert mechanic at LBS cannot resolve either.

Thanks for any feedback!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:41 pm 
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Location: The Taint of the USA!
Are you putting a spacer behind the cassette on the freehub? If you are, remove it.

You said that you replaced the hanger, but was the new hanger actually checked for proper alignment? New hangers are just as prone to being out of alignment as old ones.

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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:41 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:34 pm 
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Thx for the tips- hanger is straight and not using a spacer. At this point am comfortable it's none of the ideas from this thread by process of elimination. Shifting was great from new until recently, now is a problem.

It's still under warranty so going to ask LBS to take up with Shimano, and really just wondering if anyone else besides the few on this thread have this issue where it shifts ok in stand but not on road.


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