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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Posts: 1126
Location: UK
The top chainset is a 53/39 standard chainset. The middle and lower ones are compact chainsets like yours.


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Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:38 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:07 pm 
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Location: UK
I'll add Lewis I recommend you get a bike shop to remove your existing cups and fit the new Ultra Torque cups. Ask them to use loctite to reduce the chance of creaking.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:51 am
Posts: 53
Location: NSW Australia
Permon wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Hi,

Exactly. Let's first find out what type of Athena crank is currently in service. In case it's PT then it'll need UT cups fitted for any Chorus, Record or SR crank (or Fulcrum crank for that matter).

Do not fit SR cups unless you are installing a SR crank. SR lacks gaskets the lower end bearings require.

Ciao, ;)


I run SR cups on my Record cranks. If BB shell "closed" no reason to have those gaskets in there...only if You wanna get slower :-)


Like you Permon I have installed SR cups on my Colnago C50 for my Record cranks - seems to fit just fine. Despite warnings on the installation manual can anyone see a problem with this setup?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: Toronto
paddyrider wrote:
Permon wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Hi,

Exactly. Let's first find out what type of Athena crank is currently in service. In case it's PT then it'll need UT cups fitted for any Chorus, Record or SR crank (or Fulcrum crank for that matter).

Do not fit SR cups unless you are installing a SR crank. SR lacks gaskets the lower end bearings require.

Ciao, ;)


I run SR cups on my Record cranks. If BB shell "closed" no reason to have those gaskets in there...only if You wanna get slower :-)


Like you Permon I have installed SR cups on my Colnago C50 for my Record cranks - seems to fit just fine. Despite warnings on the installation manual can anyone see a problem with this setup?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


The guys quoted did explain it, but I'll try as well.

Regular cups have a seal on the inner side which would resist water that entered the BB shell from getting into the bearings. Some bikes, usually older ones have an opening between the seat tube and the BB shell, so if any water got into the frame, it would migrate to the BB shell. If the bike has a drain hole in the BB shell, it's a clue.

Most modern frames are not like this, and the BB shell is isolated from the seat tube, which makes a seal on the inside of the bearing redundant. Campy deleted this seal on the SR cups to save drag.

If the frame is one where water can get into the BB, and you ride in the wet, then I'd think having a SR crankset or cups would be a bad idea.

If the BB shell is sealed off from the rest of the frame, then the inner seals on the cups really are not doing anything useful, and SR cups will be fine.

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:24 am 
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I am of the mind that it's better to use the Super record cups regardless (assuming compatibility with the crank) as I've seen the seals do more harm than good by holding the water in the bearings themselves as opposed to letting it escape. Either way, the days of old where you run a sealed cartridge bb till it died are done. The ultratorque bearings are not impervioius to water, regardless of the cups used. Here's a set of seized Chorus cups and the associated bearing that were in a Pinarello FP6 for one winter season (no drainhole in the BB and no venting)...
Image

Nice huh...
I replaced the cups with Super Record cups. At least the water can drain into the bb shell and hopefully evaporate as opposed to just swishing around in the bearings themselves. No problems since, although I do think that a big part of the initial problem was due to how the owner "cleaned" the bike. I've taken baths with less water.

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My Colnago C59
My Special Colnago EPQ


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
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Location: Toronto
Campy give warnings about never hosing a bike, so we don't really know how the water got there. Riding in winter can also be pretty brutal on bearings. My thought is that once water gets into a bearing - you got problems - 'specially if it's salty.

If I ride an outboard bearing bike in winter in Toronto, I'm going to expect to change out the bearings after.

ps, check the lower headset bearing too. I had one that totally disintegrated after a winter's riding.

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:22 am 
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It was a harsh winter for sure, but when I asked the owner if they clean their BB area by spraying water at it the response was "well yeah, how else am I supposed to clean it?" :)

_________________
My Colnago C59
My Special Colnago EPQ


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:51 am
Posts: 53
Location: NSW Australia
Thanks Bikerjulio and Calnago - thought there was more to it than that. I am more happy with the set up now, even though it seemed to go together nicely it's good to know exactly why Campag warns against it. I'd used the record cups and bearings on my Trek and was surprised how much water had obviously got into the bearings over time. Lesson is - look after the bearings regularly - and maybe no internal plastic sleeve is a good thing.


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