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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 5:48 am
Posts: 105
started off as regular jagwire housing. with a knife i cut off all of the outer plastic.

Image


Image


Last edited by Brandonnie on Thu Dec 27, 2012 2:46 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 12:08 am 
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Posts: 84
Would be interested to see how this holds up.....

I have seen examples of where a too tight a bend in the housing has caused small sections of the steel coil to pop out of place then only to be held in place by the plastic you have cut off.

But still, interesting. As long as you don't make any tight bends in the housing i suppose it should be OK?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 12:45 am 
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in the industry

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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Also won't water and grit get in far more easily.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 1:15 am 
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Posts: 105
Well it wont matter since the elements cant go through the liner.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 4:06 am 
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Good idea, but since the steel wire of the outer is on view now could it rust? Good idea though. You could always wrap it with electrical tape too to preserve element protection and make it black again for some trivial weight gain.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 8:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:03 am
Posts: 202
Location: Queensland Australia
Top Job, :thumbup:
My daughters bike has Jagwire (black), with a Metal outer cable on the rear section just before the rear brake. Now that I look at your before and after pics, I believe that this is exactly what my LBS has done. Have always been curious as to why the little piece at the rear was different to the rest of the Cabling, (bare cable and not Black plastic coated).
P.S. it doesn't appear to want to rust. but does'nt really see any water/moisture. Always Garaged.
Keep us updated on how it works out, and good on you for giving it a go.

Austke

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 12:09 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I suppose good point about the liner. Good stainless steel won't rust.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 6:12 pm 
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You could always coat the cable to water proof it a bit better.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 8:00 pm 
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Just cabled the bike up. Shifting is perfect. Ill see how the bare metal holds up.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:35 pm 
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Sorry. But I feel someone has to say it. I think it's a bad idea and wouldn't want that bare metal rubbing on my frame.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 1:43 am 
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I would not want any cable rubbing my frame. Thats why there is cable rub protectors. Its kind of like not getting nokon cables becuase of the bare aluminum


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 1:51 am 
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Location: Canada
This should be titled free weight saving on housing...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 2:06 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5850
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Quote:
I think it's a bad idea and wouldn't want that bare metal rubbing on my frame.


That will take just one/two cable protector per side of the bike but I think that given time the spiraling will just open up.
After that it won't take too long before the cable eventually pops through it....

Not a bad idea as such but I'd just restrict it to whatever cable runs underneath the bar tape.

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1980
Location: NoVA/DC
Brandonnie wrote:
Just cabled the bike up. Shifting is perfect. Ill see how the bare metal holds up.

Interesting you mention the shifting. You have only brake housing on the scale. I have a feeling that, when used outside, the imprecision of the housing will show up.
With shift housing's linear strands, the plastic outer cover is also structural.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:42 am 
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Location: Los Angeles / Glendale, California
Heatshrink the stainless steel if you are concerned about the braided housing rubbing against your frame, or if you are concerned about rusting/wear/etc:. The weight gain with the heatshrink material will be minimal.

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