Hi, I currently have a 2011 c dale Supersix himod. It's 15 lbs 6 oz.

I'd like to keep getting it lighter.

I have a couple year old set of American classic sprint 350's
They should way between 1390 and 1410.

What would be a good set of tubs for my first race season?

I weigh 160 even

I like climbing best and want that to be my specialty, although I will do a lot of flats and rolling hills too.

I would like to ride them not just for races, but whenever I'm feeling sexy, so would like them built to last but super light.

Budget?

Off the top of my head from the "factory pre-built" for the masses category:
Zipp 202s or 303s
Easton EC90 SLX
Reynolds 46
Enve Smart 3.4

You could go custom as well, although there are fewer rim choices if you are looking for carbon

_________________
Fear is healthy, panic can be deadly

I've got a pair of Enve 25's. Super light but tough. I've had them for a couple of months. They are built on the DT 240S hub which is now 11 speed. Enve included a 1.8 spacer so I can run 10 speed. I'm heavier than you and have not had any issues. I've hit the same pothole twice and my city is filled with rough roads and lots of hills. I love them. Come in around 1050 g.

Budget 3000.

I figure if I really want something more than that, like the lightweight brand I could look for it used.

What about building the enve 25's with dt190 ceramic? Would that put them under 1000g?

I saw a wheel set that spuds good, although I can't find we're they are for sale or any more information, plus it sounds like more of a mt bike company, but tune skyline?

Go with Alchemy hubs. Get the new Alchemy rear hub. 20/24 combo with Sapim cx-ray spokes and you should be around 950-980g.

If you're planning to race in sanctioned events, be careful about getting the weight under 6.8 kilos since you might be weighed. We don't weigh much where I live and commissaire, but we always weigh at hillclimbs.

So they do weigh some at the sanctioned races here in the us, even cat 5?

I don't know what your local practice is but our organizers post "tech guides" on their site that say whether there will be weigh ins,, measurements for TT bikes, etc. check your races and see what they say.

Can't go wrong with the Boyd carbon tubulars for the price, take the money saved toward good parts such as Veloflex extremes and a light quality cassette. Like a Xg1090.

_________________
Curt Brown
2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO SRAM Red 10.8#'s
2012 Cannondale Super X 14.1#'s and dropping....
2011 Cannondale Carbon Flash 1 17.2#'s
1999 Cannondale F2000, SRAM XO 18.9#'s
http://cbevo.com/2012_cd_supersix_evo_31.html

If you want an all round set, I would suggest not going for 25mm rim depth wheels.

My ideal all round set is 38mmF/50mmR, 50mm/50mm or 50mmF/60mmR.

Wheels are so damn light these days that what you lose in weight is not nearly as significant as what you gain in aerodynamics. 38mm is a great compromise and with the new rim profiles (firecrest, for example) the handling is significantly improving.

_________________
BMC SLC01

Visiting South West Australia? Visit Crank n' Cycles!

For racing you need durable - no one calls out a huge pothole in a race - you just hit it hard and hope for the best. To race you also should have something that you can afford to write off and replace in case of a crash.....and also then some remaining consideration of light and aero. Lightweights (durable rims but a pedal in the spokes and bye, bye) don't fit the replace easily bill and unless the $$$$$ don't cause you to blink an eye.....used ones won't have a crash replacement program option either. Considering the wheelset you have now, I'd suggest you head to a dealer who can offer a test ride on some 50's deep carbon tubbies.....then after a good eye opening ride you'll easily decide do you want ultra light low profile or light enough and aero "feeling very sexy" 50's carbon tubbies.

Cheers!

Sorry - double post

There is definitely some great advice on here. I do appreciate it.

I saw someone selling used Reynolds 46ul. Those sound like they may fit the description I'm getting.

So the aeros really are making a difference these days? The only aeros I've used, and I'm not sure they even qualify was 10 years ago my first road bike had cxp22 s, but I was so new I couldn't tell a difference, I was young and they were what I had

I alsdont have the money to replace a lightweight, if I got them it would be a treat

Added comments.......you can get all sorts of advice on the internet......but everyone has different "needs"......my remark is that 50's carbon tubbies are addicting........for most conditions you'll realize it's an advantage over your stable of wheels so you will lust after what they offer and pick them for nearly all your rides......but in the end you need to experiance the feel of the wheels and decide for yourself - so please take some test rides.