Weight Weenies

Christo, if you understand the principles behind block and tackle pulleys, you'll get what he's trying to do here.

The loop back up to the arm for an anchoring point effectively doubles the cable pull required for each amount of arm movement. It also effectively doubles the force actuated on the pulley pivot, in effect the brake arm.

How well it works remains to be seen but in principle, that's what its supposed to do.

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Does anyone know or seen any Rupture test on Brake and Shift cables? I'd like the see the numbers. Can't find so far.

Sram clamps (for trigger shifters) working as an adapter to install the rear shifter from the frame to the handlebar. Looks good!

hmm, care to explain how you did that? I made a retroshift style from a 1X7 cheap bike, but yours solution looks nice too:

mvotre wrote:hmm, care to explain how you did that? I made a retroshift style from a 1X7 cheap bike, but yours solution looks nice too:

Yours looks also interesting, but were the cable stop goes?

I don't mind explaining....well, the picture tells the story:
Sram clamp is already square, but I had to use a file to remove some material to fit the shifter base, as you see, fitting worked. The second part you see (from left to right)
is a caliper brake Nut, and I also used a file to make the square shape to avoid rotation versus the sram clamp. The other edge of the nut is also squared to receive the
shifter and fit properly. A 33mm long bolt was needed, and lastly, M5 nut closing the deal. The second clamp is needed to work as a cable stop, they need to work together.

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Wow, the pictures are so big it's a pain to follow this thread.

Saddle ready

Wow! That looks fantastic! Kudos on the shifter too, raw engineering look. Very cool!

Here I have my lightweight junior cassette mod...
This started out as a 14-25 10speed ultegra cassette, but i wanted to have the option of a 27, so in our parts bin at the shop, i found a dura-ace 7900 12-27 cassette. Swapped the last 3 cogs from the dura-ace cassette onto the 14t junior legal corncob, giving us the following;
20140928_202342 by greenberg.ethan, on Flickr

But that sucka is heavy! So, I took the primary grouping which is riveted together, got out my drill, and separated the cogs. Used the 1st position 14t from the corncob, the 15t and 16t from the dura-ace, a custom bit i loaded onto the dura-ace carriage, which gives me my 17t and 18t cogs. Then the 19t and 20t from the original corncob, and then my last 3 dura-ace cogs (21, 24, 27 on a carriage). I also replaced all of the spacers with some composite ones. Pretty happy with the end result;
20140928_202443 by greenberg.ethan, on Flickr

Just a reminder not to use it on an aluminium freehub though. Its gonna bite real deep , maybe even through with individual cogs.

maxxevv wrote:Just a reminder not to use it on an aluminium freehub though. Its gonna bite real deep , maybe even through with individual cogs.

Holy moly dude, thanks for letting me know. Luckily, the DA 9000 wheelset has a TI freehub body. That's ok right?

You saved nearly 90 grams on a junior cassette? Man I just ran a cable lockout on my 11-23 SRAM Red power dome.

Saved 8 grams with a homemade top cap

Before:


After:


Ti bolt on the way!

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