Couldn't feel anything different before and after the drilling, I think the R600 is just over-design to make it heavier than its more expensive Ultegra/DA brothers. I have some very slim old model of DA and Record crank arms which were top of line in the era, they are strong enough for the professionals, aren't they?

I don't baby sit my bike, I abuse it. It is strong enough to be my travel bike.

You must have read my ride reports in Roadbikereview.com, have you?
Ever since chi-ming's incident, I seldom write until I start riding tandem with my wife. I wrote a few in Chinese recently. like to read those?

Kai Ming; I like the look of your large touring saddlebag. Can you provide more details? How much does that Aluminium frame weigh? How much weight can it handle?

My only worry about your cranks Kai-ming are stress raisers you have introduced alot of them. My wife on her '96 P7 MTB had a lovely set of CNC'd Middleburn cranks until they cracked. The design (and alot of these boutique CNC'd 90's MTB cranksets are the same) has stress raisers in it and they are renowned for cracking. I have a set of these too and check them regualrly. Check the regualrly and carefuly, any hairline cracks and stop using them!

As for maching the rim those factory wheel sets do not machine a big hole in the rim, that is what you are proposing. The rim will loose alot of its stiffnes with those sized cut outs and given the low spoke counts that is bound to casue problems.

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www.thecycleclinic.co.uk

Wee: Flicken awesome work man! Very exciting stuff

That is one of Kai-ming's original designs too.
How much does that Aluminium frame weigh? - I have never weight it, I thing it is light.
Can you provide more details? - It is basically a hoop made of aluminium flat bars with an inverted u-shape piece fixed to the saddle rails. The interesting bit I think actually is a bag-shape net (made out of a fishing net) which I fixed to the aluminium hoop. The opening of net bag is open/close by an elastic rope with a retainer so that things can be put in/out handily, and you can see what things that are in the net bag. The deep blue bag in the net bag that you can see in the picture is a water-proof bag (one that is used for swimming gears) for storing things like camera, electric stuffs and clothing to avoid getting wet. That bike is now in a bikes house away from where I live, I may take more pictures and weight the rack when I go there next time.
How much weight can it handle? - I think it can handle at least 20lbs. With the luggage in , when I pedal hard out of the seat I can feel the rack/luggage swing a little at the back, that mean the support there is a little flimsy. After the usage of two years, the aluminium inverted u-shape piece that is fixed to the saddle rails broke during a ride. It is then replaced by a piece made from thicker brass flat bar which is a lot stronger, no problem since then.

Thanks for your advises, I shall keep close eye on all of my bikes/components whether tuned or not.
Mountain bike need stronger frame/components, people make jumps with it, I often heard they break bars. seatposts, cranks, etc.

Picked up an oldschool Easton EC90 26mm handlebar for 40 euro.


After removing the red paint and the cutting 4 cm off both ends ....

Hi,

Looks nice and clean.

Weighed about 195g uncut and painted in size 42, correct?

Ciao,

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Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

Indeed, before it was 191g ( 40cm )

Wow Easton like to use paint don't they? That's an aweful lot on just a bar!

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

In a word, no I haven't and cannot. I am banned from there, and they tracked down any location I ever posted from. If there is a way to link them avoiding Roadbikereview I'd love too read your reports.

I re-read your posts, I think I have misunderstood.
I did not weight the crank arms before and after, they have been tuned and ridden for two/three years, I couldn't tell any difference before and after.

Here are pictures taken yesterday. It weights 557g.

I have seen quite a few tuned F/R der's on here so far but one recently caught my eye. He noted that he used the Far and Near tuning kit. When I looked into this I noted that all parts were made of aluminum. Sounds great but I have my reservations at this point for a couple of the bolts.

1. Is it a common practice when tuning f/r der's to run an aluminum pinch bolt (cable pinch bolt)? My concern is it stripping when being tightened
2. The use of an aluminum main bolt for the rear der (bolt that connects it to the frame). Any concern of this snapping?
3. Any concern with using an aluminum bolt for the main clamping bolt on an older style clamp on f. der? Basically, I'm talking about the bolt that actually goes thru the clamp to affix it to the frame.

In a nutshell, while I'm socking some funds away for new SR derailleurs I am thinking about swapping out some of the bolts on my current Record stuff. At the moment, I am looking at titanium for the pinch bolts and the front derailleur clamp bolt. I will go with aluminum for the stop point bolts. I won't be worrying about the main rear derailleur bolt just yet (that is more of an issue once I get the new SR set up on there down the road). My plan is to also do away with the clamp on style f.d and go with a Parlee carbon band style clamp and a braze on style FD when I buy one.

May or may not worry about jockey wheels just yet either if the plan is to swap out the RD in the near future but I figure some of the other tuning bolts will cross over on to the newer SR RD when I get it.

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09 Pinella w/ Record 10spd
http://1spd.blogspot.com/