Love this thread, keep on tuning. Wait till I get a mancave and I can do some serious dremmelling!!

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"I could have done this job myself in five minutes, but as things turned out I had to spend two days trying to find out why it had taken someone else three weeks to do it wrong."

I have read several options in other threads:

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1. Some have not applied anything - but they have been criticised saying the carbon may go yellowish from UV damage - but i never found any proof of this.

2. Most commonly - most have used 303 Aerospace Protectant spray - I have used this and it seems to apply a protective anti-static/dust layer like you would do for the inside of your car dash.

3. Re-apply another clear coat gloss or matt (obviously much thinner than the original - Say 3 layers). But this may mean some oven baking (curing) is required for certain types of clear coat.

4. Others suggest clear car wax - i would think this (along with the 303 spray) is one of the better options but requires you to reapply regularly, like every time you clear your bike.

Would also like to hear other opinions too as i now have a load of raw carbon components ready to be installed!

Thank you thank you, ahh the pedals, yes standard drill bit, in a drill press. Might go larger diameter next time.

@CBJ, my levers and the carbon components I've built haven't even coated them with anything. My levers haven't shown a sign of going yellow yet. If it does I'll redo it and apply a wax protectant. Even when I stripped my frame I only got the local paint shop to apply 2 ultra thin coats to the frame. Still no signs of epoxy break down. For now I don't coat components, but frame and fork I do.

@kingkongsfinger thank you +1 appreciation. I basically live in my man cave...

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

Hi,



That would be the clearcoat if it doesn't come with a UV filter, not the carbon fibre comp though.
Bare CF when exposed to UV rays for a long time will make the epoxy turn "chalky" and brittle exposing bare carbon fibre when it chips of.



The main problem with using CF components without clearcoat is that you don't know whether or not these have been manufactured with UV resistant epoxy or not.
It's not that the effect will be noticeable quickly either, it may take years of regular exposure to UV rays to make it obvious.

Personally I'd stick with this:



Ciao,

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Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

Damaged Red RD arrived today. (Shipped Sat. USPS 1st class from CA. Gotta love that.) Very pleased. All's good save the cages, 1 pin and the inner link. Dremel fingers itching.

Here's a Tektro r538 caliper I started a while back. In limbo for a while. Originally ~ 160gms. Should come in at around 100 with shoes/pads and pinch bolt.

[/quote]
Damaged Red RD arrived today. (Shipped Sat. USPS 1st class from CA. Gotta love that.) Very pleased. All's good save the cages, 1 pin and the inner link. Dremel fingers itching.[/quote]

Run a drill through it

Your a brave man tuning a brake calliper...

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

That's why you got 2 of'em
Anyway, you gotta go where the weight is. Total war! Tora Tora Tora!

Not sure what to do about the black box pulleys. They're lighter than I expected. 11gms/ea. The alloy ones on the donor Force RD are 9. After scouting eBay, I could unload them for what I paid for the entire RD. Or I could reBay them and put that $ towards a set of $130 ABI zer0 delrin ones I saw on the bay. 8.7gms/pr! But that goes against the whole budget build thing...
I'm tellin' you! The life of a Weenie isn't all fun and games!

lechat, I really like your brake caliper. Well done!

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AEROLITUS-defender of the faith

Thanks. I have no doubt it will work well. I removed stock with retaining rigidity in mind. And the pivots are tight. That's were a lot of "flex" comes from. The translucent red finish looks better in person, the alloy shines thru'. Was going to paint the adjusting bolt, but will probably just polish it to match the QR.

So what have you tuned on it?

Hahahahaha true. I've often thought about tuning my KCNCs but they are flexible enough as it is.... So that's a no for now.

How about drilling your black box pulleys a little. They shift so damn good I took my light ones off to put them back on...

@dereksmalls I take it the large gap through the front arm isn't standard

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

I've been using the rothshek cf pulleys available on ebay for the past 5 years or so. I think I'm on my 2nd set. At 9-11g for the pair, they're hard to beat for 35-45 usd.

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Speedplay is the devil.

The usual. Material removal. Lighter hardware, mainly a Ti pivot bolt.