Agree.

What about just letting it go?
We should enjoy the gems in this thread instead of the constant bickering.

Not a big tune but......Sanded down my Stronglight Helion (Time Branded) Carbon/Ti Crankset last week for a new WW Carbon Stealth build.

Before people comment on the reliability of these cranksets......I have been riding and racing on them for 2 years now.

Original weight was was 387g (Arms + Axle) - Shaved off 7g after about 20 hours of sanding

Now fitted with Fibre-Lyes Chainrings (50/38) which i also sanded down to take the clear coat off.


Half way through


Finished after 20 hrs




Fitted with sanded down fibre-lytes

I have the exact same cranks . I sanded mine down as well .Yours look better than mine . I never realised the weight of the cranks was that low . it's a shame you have to use that active bb , that seems to be where the weight is that takes them over 600grms . what does your crank and chainrings weigh? If they came in around 450grms then if we could get some kind of bb that would work at a around 100grms your talking 550 all in . That would be awesome .

Crankset weighs 446g with chainrings and chainring bolts (currently waiting for a hollow Ti crank arm bolt to be delivered (claimed 4g))

Active Link BB 81g for cups and bearings + 6g for the lightest spindle sleeve i could find (might even scrap this)


excluding 4g Crank arm bolt



Total should be 537g

I don't get it . total weight is supposed to be 640grms . That is a big difference . I will take mine down the my LBS and see what it weighs . I just took it for granted it weighed 640 grms . I don't have the fibre-lytes .
Now I know the weight I will get some . Awesome ... top stuff

Saved 66g with the fibre-lytes (50/38T) over stock (53/39T) chainrings (119g to 53g)
Saved 16g with a lighter spindle sleeve (22g to 6g)
Saved 12g by changing the stock crank arm bolt to Ti (16g to 4g)
Saved 2g in lighter chainring bolts (10g to 8g)
Saved 7g by removing clear coat (387g to 380g)

Original Weight 640g - Saved 103g - Ergo new weight is 537g!

Sweet!

Sanded my TRP R950's for my new stealth build - sanded with 1500 rather than removing the clear coat completely - No weight saving though.

Also removed (with a blade) the clear coat from the brake shoes to match - saved about 2g over the 4 shoes


The left one is obviously the sanded one....


Shoes Before


Shoes After

After reading through this thread this seems a little bit bog standard as a tune, sorry, but i am new to this so obviously proud of my little achievements.............

Campy SR (2011) RD, Clear Coat removed from front plate and remaining surfaces sanded to matt. Swapped out stock jockeys and rear plate to fibre-lytes.

Original weight 165g
2g saved from removing the clear coat (it seemed to be an exceptionally thick layer!)
10g saved with Fibre-Lyte jockey wheels
7g saved with Fibre-Lyte rear plate
Final Weight 146g

Still need to sand the rear plate to matt carbon

Very cool .Im doing the same to my crank in the new year ...very clever and well thought out

@lo5707, it's amazing how much the clear coat on everything weighs. On my SRAM red levers there was something like 4/5grams per lever, and an even thicker coat on the shift lever

Those TRP brakes would look great on a stealth build over a standard DA, Red or Campy brake. And those cranks are amazing too!

Really must get me some fibre lytes...

Great simple tuning, yet effective in reducing weight. Sanding costs you a dollar or two for heaps of grams, so

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

Thanks weeracerweenie,

Chipped off (with a blade) all the clear coat off of my Record 10 Speeds levers the other day. It literally peeled/chipped away in massive flakes it was so thick.....also meant it was very quick to do.

They look much better now without 'RECORD' plastered down them......

Would love to drill them out like yours though.....did you use any special drill bit (diamond coated etc)? Also did you drill out those holes in your home made Aerolite Delrin barrels? If so was it easy to do.....i have a set coming and would like to drill them out like the TT (and your) version?

@lo5707, wow those look WAAAYY better!

I used an ultra sharp drill bit to make a guide hole (about 6mm) then using a cardboard guide taped onto the lever I roughl cut the shape out, the dremelling it smoother with a sanding cyclinder thing. Then I used an arsenal of files and mini files to do the rest. I used a big file to get a straight edge up the length of the lever. Then the mini files to get the circular ends to tangent with the straight edges. It takes a lot of time, but god is it worth it.

The barrel adjusters I hand built yes, and the holes in the sides were actually a double positive. Lighter an grippier so you could twist them better. I've nearly got a pair under 1 gram haha!

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100739

weeracerweenie,

I actually meant the barrels on your home made Aerolite pedals - did you drill those holes out - Standard drill bits?

But yes, those barrel adjusters are amazing - You need to stockpile those and start shipping!!!

Is in necessary to have any sort of coating on the raw carbon to protect it?