Show me Your Tuning!

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lo5707
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:03 pm

by lo5707

CBJ wrote:Is in necessary to have any sort of coating on the raw carbon to protect it?


I have read several options in other threads:

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viewtopic.php?f=14&t=104529&hilit=303+Aerospace+Protectant" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83500&p=824573&hilit=303+Aerospace+Protectant#p824573" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92322&hilit=303+Aerospace+Protectant" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

1. Some have not applied anything - but they have been criticised saying the carbon may go yellowish from UV damage - but i never found any proof of this.

2. Most commonly - most have used 303 Aerospace Protectant spray - I have used this and it seems to apply a protective anti-static/dust layer like you would do for the inside of your car dash.

3. Re-apply another clear coat gloss or matt (obviously much thinner than the original - Say 3 layers). But this may mean some oven baking (curing) is required for certain types of clear coat.

4. Others suggest clear car wax - i would think this (along with the 303 spray) is one of the better options but requires you to reapply regularly, like every time you clear your bike.

Would also like to hear other opinions too as i now have a load of raw carbon components ready to be installed!

by Weenie


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weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

lo5707 wrote:weeracerweenie,

I actually meant the barrels on your home made Aerolite pedals - did you drill those holes out - Standard drill bits?

But yes, those barrel adjusters are amazing - You need to stockpile those and start shipping!!!


Thank you thank you, ahh the pedals, yes standard drill bit, in a drill press. Might go larger diameter next time.

@CBJ, my levers and the carbon components I've built haven't even coated them with anything. My levers haven't shown a sign of going yellow yet. If it does I'll redo it and apply a wax protectant. Even when I stripped my frame I only got the local paint shop to apply 2 ultra thin coats to the frame. Still no signs of epoxy break down. For now I don't coat components, but frame and fork I do.

@kingkongsfinger thank you +1 appreciation. I basically live in my man cave... :D
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5894
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

1. Some have not applied anything - but they have been criticised saying the carbon may go yellowish from UV damage - but i never found any proof of this.


That would be the clearcoat if it doesn't come with a UV filter, not the carbon fibre comp though.
Bare CF when exposed to UV rays for a long time will make the epoxy turn "chalky" and brittle exposing bare carbon fibre when it chips of.

Would also like to hear other opinions too as i now have a load of raw carbon components ready to be installed


The main problem with using CF components without clearcoat is that you don't know whether or not these have been manufactured with UV resistant epoxy or not.
It's not that the effect will be noticeable quickly either, it may take years of regular exposure to UV rays to make it obvious.

Personally I'd stick with this:

4. Others suggest clear car wax - i would think this (along with the 303 spray) is one of the better options but requires you to reapply regularly, like every time you clear your bike.


Ciao, ;)
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

DSCF4084.jpg
lechat wrote:http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=50667&mode=view" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is a Force RD I trimmed down to 143gms. I won a Red one on eBay last night for $25 shipped. A victim of a maladjusted set screw. The cages and inner link are toast but everything else looks good. With the Ti springs and alloy pins, should be able to pare a good bit of weight.
The pulleys w/ceramic bearings are still good so I'll probably re-eBay them. Should fetch $20 easily to offset my expenses.

Damaged Red RD arrived today. (Shipped Sat. USPS 1st class from CA. Gotta love that.) Very pleased. All's good save the cages, 1 pin and the inner link. Dremel fingers itching.

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

DSCF4083.jpg
DSCF4077.jpg
Here's a Tektro r538 caliper I started a while back. In limbo for a while. Originally ~ 160gms. Should come in at around 100 with shoes/pads and pinch bolt.
Attachments
DSCF4076.jpg

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

[/quote]
Damaged Red RD arrived today. (Shipped Sat. USPS 1st class from CA. Gotta love that.) Very pleased. All's good save the cages, 1 pin and the inner link. Dremel fingers itching.[/quote]

Run a drill through it :wink:

Your a brave man tuning a brake calliper...
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

That's why you got 2 of'em :wink:
Anyway, you gotta go where the weight is. Total war! Tora Tora Tora!

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

Not sure what to do about the black box pulleys. They're lighter than I expected. 11gms/ea. The alloy ones on the donor Force RD are 9. After scouting eBay, I could unload them for what I paid for the entire RD. Or I could reBay them and put that $ towards a set of $130 ABI zer0 delrin ones I saw on the bay. 8.7gms/pr! But that goes against the whole budget build thing...
I'm tellin' you! The life of a Weenie isn't all fun and games!

wally318
Posts: 403
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 1:00 am

by wally318

lechat, I really like your brake caliper. Well done!
AEROLITUS-defender of the faith

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

Thanks. I have no doubt it will work well. I removed stock with retaining rigidity in mind. And the pivots are tight. That's were a lot of "flex" comes from. The translucent red finish looks better in person, the alloy shines thru'. Was going to paint the adjusting bolt, but will probably just polish it to match the QR.

dereksmalls
Posts: 2305
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

lechat wrote:Here's a Tektro r538 caliper I started a while back. In limbo for a while. Originally ~ 160gms. Should come in at around 100 with shoes/pads and pinch bolt.


So what have you tuned on it?

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

lechat wrote:That's why you got 2 of'em :wink:


Hahahahaha true. I've often thought about tuning my KCNCs but they are flexible enough as it is.... So that's a no for now.

How about drilling your black box pulleys a little. They shift so damn good I took my light ones off to put them back on...

@dereksmalls I take it the large gap through the front arm isn't standard :wink:
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

mdeth1313
Posts: 2069
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:38 am
Location: Dutchess County, NY

by mdeth1313

lechat wrote:Not sure what to do about the black box pulleys. They're lighter than I expected. 11gms/ea. The alloy ones on the donor Force RD are 9. After scouting eBay, I could unload them for what I paid for the entire RD. Or I could reBay them and put that $ towards a set of $130 ABI zer0 delrin ones I saw on the bay. 8.7gms/pr! But that goes against the whole budget build thing...
I'm tellin' you! The life of a Weenie isn't all fun and games!



I've been using the rothshek cf pulleys available on ebay for the past 5 years or so. I think I'm on my 2nd set. At 9-11g for the pair, they're hard to beat for 35-45 usd.
Speedplay is the devil!

lechat
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: S.E. TN

by lechat

DSCF4016.jpg
dereksmalls wrote:
lechat wrote:Here's a Tektro r538 caliper I started a while back. In limbo for a while. Originally ~ 160gms. Should come in at around 100 with shoes/pads and pinch bolt.


So what have you tuned on it?

The usual. Material removal. Lighter hardware, mainly a Ti pivot bolt.
Attachments
DSCF4012.jpg

wally318
Posts: 403
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 1:00 am

by wally318

So, these next few pics are an expose of the rear derailleur on the light bike
found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/wallyworld318"
First 2 pics are of the derailleur when finished @ 67.7 grams
Pic 3 and 4 show a sort of explosion of the parts involved.
The derailleur is a hybrid based on the Huret Jubillee derr.
I had to dig through a few boxes, but found the parts, most of them anyway.
There are some parts not there, they were sold or disappeared. A few parts
there are of aluminum relacemants made way back in the mid 80's which
made a 120 gram version on a 14.75 lb bike. The pulleys are from the 67 gram
version, now replaced.
First all parts were removed/unbolted.
Next rivet heads on the body were drilled out and body dismantled
and pins/pivots pressed out.
The 4 body forgings were machined for larger pins, over sized pivot bolt
w/13mm hex, and excess material removed where not needed/lightening. Also
shaped and polished.
New hollow pins/pivots made from 6-4 titanium with miniature screws 3mm x .5mm
thread used in place of rivets. These were very difficult to machine, in a non production
setting. Titanium heats up very quickly and will seize on a drill or tap. Sometimes
breaking. And then you start over. The only parts made using CNC are the the thin
brass precision washers spacing the 4 body pcs. when joined together w/pins and screws.
Titanium springs had to be made using bike spokes 1 for return spring
and the other for cage pivot. The most difficult was #2. As you can see from the #3
pic., the spring has 3 1/2 windings internally and another 2 1/2 externally as well as
the end pcs.
The lower half or pivot cage assembly is based on the Shimano 7800 derr.
The biggest improvement here is that the original design had 2 pulley bolts
with the upper one threading directly into the derr. body and locked with a nut.
The pulley cages actually pivoted on the shaft of this bolt.
The cages were reshaped/lightened and machined for an oversized aluminum
pivot bolt that has a large flange head which is recessed into the outer cage
and bonded into place with a titanium pin protecting the epoxy in shear.
So all steel was taken out of the derailleur except 1 part was actually added.
The oversized pivot bolt allows for the use of a thin low profile bearing inserted
in the lower housing that the cages pivot on. The pulleys are actually remachined
shimano upper pulleys with the ceramic bushing/bearings. They can be seen in pic
#4. Endcaps were made by machining a mould and pressed out of Coke cans, as
well as the shim spacer/washers.
As I was nearing the end of the hill climb project, I decided to black anodize everything.
So the derr. was dimantled, pins pressed out, pivot unbonded, and then anodized.
Then reassembly. The parts lost a bit of weight during stripping of clear anodize
and some fit problems.
So...How does it shift? Well for a 6 spd old school derailleur, non indexed actually quite
well. The new narrow chains and cassettes w/ shift indents help a lot. Major difference
is that the body parts aren't quite long enough and the body spring wether steel or ti,
isn't strong enough to push out to the smallest cogs on a 10 or 11 spd.
On an 11 spd set up it can get the 9 cogs on the inboard side if you give it an extra
couple links. Which for a hill climb bike works quite well.
The ceramic bushing pulleys were replaced because they were a pain. The oil would dry out too quickly requiring dimantle & oil. And the dust caps had too deep a shoulder on 1 or 2
and would rub/add friction. So I made new one of delrin. They look a bit like the Extralite,
because I just visually used them as a pattern for hole placement. I don't know the differences
in the guts, but I can tell you that mine have 2 small ceramic bearing each and 3 spacers.
The derailleur now weighs 64.6 grams.
There are probably 150 or more hours into this derailleur.
Attachments
RD11.JPG
RD22.JPG
P1020955.JPG
P1020956.JPG
AEROLITUS-defender of the faith

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



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