Show me Your Tuning!

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weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

@xena well I thought it would have been titanium as well, but the metal finishers seemed to think it was steel... I think they are wrong but it's certainly not alloy. I haven't seen the photos chick them up on this thread, such awesome tuning deep serves to be seen! I'm in the process of tuning another derailleur, but I might have a crack at building my own one piece cage. Not sure yet, I have a lot of SRAM Reds lying around that I could make a few out of but I'd rather have some fun with it. I just wish I had mills to build my own parts. And lathes to build new barrel adjusters etc.


@addictR1 Thank you, in all honesty carbon work isn't that hard, carbon is a lot stronger than most people think. Give it a go, you'll be surprised.

Update in the frame repair:


I stripped the rest of the surrounding area from its paint, I've never been a huge fan of treks but I love how easy the paint just flakes off, it's not very well attached to the carbon. I then took an old 26" tube and cut it in half, tied up both ends and threaded it through the frame and out the BB. The tube is too big and has a fold in it when it's inflated so I'm going to get a 700x37c tube and use that. Should work better. This picture is of the tube un inflated,

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And inflated, it's used to pressurise the carbon and squeeze out as much left over resin as possible, to much resin makes for an unstable balance and weakens the carbon. This tube is to big so will be swapped out after the long weekend

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I then test fitted the mould and inflated while it was clamped to check it wouldn't force it's way out the mold. It all checked out so we are set for glueing and setting as soon as I get the tube.

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I'm still not sure on how many layers I'll do, maybe 5. All cross directional. I'll do a bit more research on that. Any opinions would be greatly helped!
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

by Weenie


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andreszucs
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by andreszucs

Just amazing to see this! Thanks for sharing.

jooo
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am

by jooo

@weeracerweenie - what 'pour in' material did you use to make your mold?

addictR1
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am

by addictR1

Yea that's awesome to see it's process... thAnks for sharing... where to get those type of materials from..like the resin?

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xena
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by xena

Hey weenie,,,http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=124579

Sorry for the lousy photos but I will post some better ones.

That's a fine job your doing. Have you been here? http://www.forum.light-bikes.de/showthread.php?t=23253

This guy is nuts ,brilliant. Also check out some of the other posts.

Keep going Weenie :thumbup: :beerchug:
Xena a demi god among the digital demimonde that is WW community

http://i.imgur.com/hL5v3ai.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/131970499@N02/

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

@andreszucs no problem, happy to help.

@jooo I used Plaster of Paris. It's fine grade makes for a super smooth finish which finishes the carbon and resin really good.

@addictR1 no worries mate, I got the Plaster of Paris from Placemakers which is where I'm faithful too as an apprentice builder. It's like Bunnings or any other DIY shop. I used 2kg of it. I used ice cream pottles to mould it in, 1 orange choc chip and one gold rush haha. I got the resin from a Marine Chandlery, like a boat shop. I google "West Systems Epoxy" as I used it before and liked it and rang the NZ supplier who directed me to a local seller. About $50 gets you 1L of the stuff and a hardener to match. Hope that helps. I got the carbon from an old Forman through EQC (national earthquake repair organiser after our shakey season) who gave it to me in a trade for beer.

@xena I'll have a look!
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

Butcher
Shop Owner
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am

by Butcher

Still kind of confused about this repair. Is it going to be a butt joint? I would think you would need to taper the original carbon so the new carbon had more of a surface to adhere to.

If it is going to be a butt joint, maybe you should do some research to see if this is the best joint for that kind of loading.

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

Nope sure isn't a butt join, the carbon will be wrapped around the bike tube stuffed in the chain stay so it will adhere to the insides of the chainstay, which conveniently is rough (thanks trek) so it should stick well, then the bike tube is inflated to pressurise the carbon into the chainstay wall. Should give it plenty of strength. The outside may get one or two layers but that will be determined after the internal layer is set.
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

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andreszucs
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by andreszucs

(I'm newby) so you will place a couple of layers inside (how many? ) a couple outside and some in between to fill the space so the end result gets even? I'm a sponge right now!
Last edited by andreszucs on Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

It's currently in the mould with 7 layers inside the chainstay and 2 outside. I'm just going to check it and then I'll chuck an update on here!
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

Well I broke the mould a few minutes ago and I can report

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Here's how I did it, I pre cut a bunch or carbon to cross mat over one another and tuck up the chain stay

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Mixed up a brew, 5:1 Epoxy:Hardner if your interested, this was 120gm total epoxy+hardner 100:20gm

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Next I painted the epoxy into the individual sheets with a small brush.

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Started putting the layers in,

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After every 2 layers a small amount of UD was wrapped around it to hold the layers together.

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7 layers in, and it's ready for the mould

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Mould was put on and clamped

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And many hours later we cracked the mould with a big flat pry screwdriver thing I stole from dad. Image

And we inspect our results. The back or inside of the chain stay is perfect, the front or outside is sunk in a little. The tube I put in it had a slow leak so it kept losing pressure which is why it did that. A little layer on top which I was planning anyway will solve that aesthetically, here's what I ended up with, it'll get a sanding in varying sand paper grits. Getting finer and finer. Then a filler epoxy will take out the small bumps and it'll get re sanded then prime red and painted.

Image

Image

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I'm happy, it'll get another 24 hours to dry completely. And I'll start to finish it off.
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

dereksmalls
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

Nice work T. Hey if you see Geoff ask him if he's had a chance to sort my pedals, flicked him an email but no reply. Would be interested in seeing what more stuff you could do with a Red rear derailleur, get it down to the 85gm mark!

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andreszucs
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by andreszucs

Out of curiosity: when would be necessary to apply heat to the process? When a carbon frame is made from scratch I know the steel block goes to the oven for a while for maximum cure? is that just to speed up the manufacture of necessary?

weeracerweenie
Posts: 500
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:48 am

by weeracerweenie

I assume so yeah, I point a little fan heater at from a distance just to keep a decent temperature as we head in to winter here.... Not 100% on that though
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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darnellrm
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Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:06 pm
Location: NC, USA

by darnellrm

Heat is required for the pre-preg carbon fabrics used by the large manufacturers.

FYI

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