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 Post subject: Dura Ace 9000 Front Mech
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 10:52 am 
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Hi, I have recently upgraded my 2007 or maybe earlier Scott Addict LTD to Dura Ace 11spd 9000. The front mech has been an absolute nightmare and in the end I gave in and took it to the bike shop. In all fairness to them they did have it shifting through the range although I am told that due to the tightness of 11spd that the chain will rub when in the easiest gear on the bike and the plastic part of the mech is designed to do that. Well its not only the easiest gear its probably the first four. Does anyone know whether this is true or is again an incorrect set up of the mech. I have been reading an interesting article about 9000 front mech set up however its not mentioned whether the plastic part on the mech is intentionally designed to take the rub of the chain.


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 Post subject: Dura Ace 9000 Front Mech
Posted: Tue May 12, 2015 10:52 am 
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 11:21 am 
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Nope, that's not needed!

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 12:17 pm 
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Wtf? When setup correctly there is no chain rub in any gear combo on 9000 providing you make use of all 4 FD "clicks". Go to shimano.com and download the dealers manual for the FD and follow the instructions to the letter. Once again, another lbs that's full of bs.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 2:19 pm 
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No rub on mine (SS Evo).....

Are you sure you understand the revised trim positions. i.e. when down-changing from the large ring to the small ring the first position it adopts will be the 'outside'/higher gear of the two trim positions available for the small ring. To get the mech to the 'inside'/lowest gear position you down-click again.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 3:10 pm 
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did you install the metal plate behind the FD? that adds more stability to the FD while shifting through the gears. i have no guide rub on my DA 9000 whatsoever. also, i tend to make sure the largest cogs are not rubbing at all and adjust for that first...then trim the large chainring next so that doesn't rub on the other side of the guide. check for binding in the cable...you could be having issues there as well.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 4:12 pm 
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wheelsONfire wrote:
Nope, that's not needed!

kode54 wrote:
did you install the metal plate behind the FD? that adds more stability to the FD while shifting through the gears. i have no guide rub on my DA 9000 whatsoever. also, i tend to make sure the largest cogs are not rubbing at all and adjust for that first...then trim the large chainring next so that doesn't rub on the other side of the guide. check for binding in the cable...you could be having issues there as well.


I did yeah as I'm aware of that as I have a foil with Dura Ace Di2 - I'll give it a proper go and get it sorted thanks for your help


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 4:21 pm 
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Here is the link to a pretty good video on the subject......once again, the shimano dealer manual is your friend......

http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/05/video/ask-a-mechanic-shimano-front-derailleur-setup_369157


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 6:48 pm 
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The Addict and Foil have the absolutely most flexible FD hangers I've ever seen. You definitely need to use the metal sticker and the set screw to help add stiffness in order to get it to shift reasonably well.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 11:43 pm 
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Ironman1125 wrote:
wheelsONfire wrote:
Nope, that's not needed!

kode54 wrote:
did you install the metal plate behind the FD? that adds more stability to the FD while shifting through the gears. i have no guide rub on my DA 9000 whatsoever. also, i tend to make sure the largest cogs are not rubbing at all and adjust for that first...then trim the large chainring next so that doesn't rub on the other side of the guide. check for binding in the cable...you could be having issues there as well.


I did yeah as I'm aware of that as I have a foil with Dura Ace Di2 - I'll give it a proper go and get it sorted thanks for your help


I have used DA 9000 on four frames, DA crank and Rotor, nothing, no rubbing.
You should not need Di2 for that. I had Sram and that was a bit of rubbing i could not sort out.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 5:44 am 
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deek wrote:
The Addict and Foil have the absolutely most flexible FD hangers I've ever seen. You definitely need to use the metal sticker and the set screw to help add stiffness in order to get it to shift reasonably well.


What is this mystery "metal sticker and set screw" you speak of?! No surprise, the FD hanger on my '09 Addict is the mayor of floppy city. It makes my fav shop work hard.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 8:32 am 
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See pic


Attachments:
Shimano-Dura-Ace-9000-front-derailleur-installation09.jpg
Shimano-Dura-Ace-9000-front-derailleur-installation09.jpg [ 37.51 KiB | Viewed 782 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 5:39 pm 
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Some frames don't play well with the 11 sped mechs, it's due to where the cable exits under the bb shell. if it's a little to far over to the drive side you can't set the front mech up so it doesn't rub in the easiest gear and still be able to shift to big ring.

You can route the cable over the top of the clamp bolt from the inside to help with this sometimes


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:50 pm 
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Location: Canada
bikedoc wrote:
Some frames don't play well with the 11 sped mechs, it's due to where the cable exits under the bb shell. if it's a little to far over to the drive side you can't set the front mech up so it doesn't rub in the easiest gear and still be able to shift to big ring.

You can route the cable over the top of the clamp bolt from the inside to help with this sometimes


No..........you can't. See below for the only two ways to do the cable. Depending on the frame, its either one. You can use the special tool that shimano supplies with the FD to determine the setting, or use trial and error. Please refer to the Dealers manual as already recommended. And please don't provide advice if you don't know............

Image


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:09 pm 
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@Bikedoc is correct... Some frames do not play well with DA 9000 Front dérailleur for the reasons he states and to a lesser extent sometimes a chainline issue. While the prescribed two ways to route the cable are shown in Goodboy's post and the excerpt from the Dealers Manual, @bikedoc's suggestion is a good one. It shows he understands what needs to happen in order for it to actually work better than it could otherwise in a less than ideal situation. I have not had to resort to that routing but I have certainly seem less than optimal shifting on frames that "don't play well" with DA9000 up front. And I can totally see how the solution @Bikedoc is suggesting might be a good workaround in such situations.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:25 pm 
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I'm not clear from your post, Calnago. Are you speaking from personal experience having routed it that way and obtained success, or are you speaking theoretically?


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Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:25 pm 
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