I'm not sure I fully understand how the cogwheels/chainrings would not be abraded just because the chain is hard.. but I'm not an engineer
Component friction testing
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prendrefeu
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DLC Cables interest me... so they never need to be lubed? Teflon-coated cables also claim the no-lube theory, but they too eventually creak.
Anything to prevent cables from making creaking sounds when they need to be re-lubed.
Or would Power Cordz be the only cable type that never, ever creaks?
Anything to prevent cables from making creaking sounds when they need to be re-lubed.
Or would Power Cordz be the only cable type that never, ever creaks?
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Hi,
Always keep in mind what the cable is in contact with. In theory it does not require any lube to function but when dirt and grime get stuck between the housing and the cable you'd still have friction if this prevents the cable from moving around it.
At the end of the day it will still be the housing that going to suffer...
Imagine two surfaces; one is rough the other is ultra smooth and has 0 friction. Will the latter wear down the former when moving over it?
Ciao,
DLC Cables interest me... so they never need to be lubed? Teflon-coated cables also claim the no-lube theory, but they too eventually creak.
Always keep in mind what the cable is in contact with. In theory it does not require any lube to function but when dirt and grime get stuck between the housing and the cable you'd still have friction if this prevents the cable from moving around it.
At the end of the day it will still be the housing that going to suffer...
Without being abraded itself, or without abrading the contacting counterparts?
Imagine two surfaces; one is rough the other is ultra smooth and has 0 friction. Will the latter wear down the former when moving over it?
Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
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HammerTime2
- Posts: 5813
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- Location: Wherever there's a mountain beckoning to be climbed
I haven't seen the questions below addressed.
Also, the DIY suggestions at http://www.friction-facts.com/forum/ultrafast-chain-optimization-details-and-formula/#simple-forum-post-55 state "Use of a quick connect is suggested." Does a quick connect costs watts (even a fraction) vs. use of joining pin?HammerTime2 wrote:I don't see where he says how long the UltraFast chain retains its ultrafast performance. Per http://www.friction-facts.com/ultrafast-chains/shimano-dura-ace "When re-lubing your UltraFast chain, we suggest a 'dry' type high-PTFE-content or wax-based chain lubricant.". How long until relubing is necessary? How much does friction increase prior to relubing? How fast is the chain after relubing vs. when delivered as an UltraFast chain?
Hi,
Hmmmm.....Remind me, how many Watts could optimistically be saved by the use of this method again?
All in all it reminds me of the much more simple method I used for years which is quite similar to the DIY method suggested. It does not include the use of lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol but uses the same jar shaking and a number of passes of citrus based degreaser, industrial degreaser (not sure what it's made of) and plain diesel oil (lamp oil).
The chain is then wiped dry by running it through a cotton cloth until there are no marks left on it. You'd still be surprised to see the amount of dark traces of grime on the cloth which is where I wish I had a US tank.
It is then put on the bike and lubed with Boeshield T9 (which contains parafin) and sprayed with dry PTFE for a few seconds whilst rotating the chain.
Boeshield T9 alone is actually adding friction. Adding PTFE makes it roll much more freely which is why I decided to abandon the parafin idea and use a lube charged with microscopic PTFE particles.
Not sure how good that method is but let's just say I'm rather skeptical about any method claiming to improve on it in the multiple Watt range.
I suppose that would very much depend on its manufacturing tolerances, its state of lubrication and the mileage it has seen.
Maybe someone ought to build a chain using nothing but quicklinks and measure the resulting drag? Who says bicycle chains need rollers anyway?
Ciao,
Hmmmm.....Remind me, how many Watts could optimistically be saved by the use of this method again?
All in all it reminds me of the much more simple method I used for years which is quite similar to the DIY method suggested. It does not include the use of lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol but uses the same jar shaking and a number of passes of citrus based degreaser, industrial degreaser (not sure what it's made of) and plain diesel oil (lamp oil).
The chain is then wiped dry by running it through a cotton cloth until there are no marks left on it. You'd still be surprised to see the amount of dark traces of grime on the cloth which is where I wish I had a US tank.
It is then put on the bike and lubed with Boeshield T9 (which contains parafin) and sprayed with dry PTFE for a few seconds whilst rotating the chain.
Boeshield T9 alone is actually adding friction. Adding PTFE makes it roll much more freely which is why I decided to abandon the parafin idea and use a lube charged with microscopic PTFE particles.
Not sure how good that method is but let's just say I'm rather skeptical about any method claiming to improve on it in the multiple Watt range.
Does a quick connect costs watts (even a fraction) vs. use of joining pin?
I suppose that would very much depend on its manufacturing tolerances, its state of lubrication and the mileage it has seen.
Maybe someone ought to build a chain using nothing but quicklinks and measure the resulting drag? Who says bicycle chains need rollers anyway?
Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
