Any meaningful weight deductions for a Madone 7?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Lawfarm
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2012 5:16 pm

by Lawfarm

Just finished the full build on my new Madone 7.

http://ridingagainstthegrain.com/2012/10/15/2013-trek-madone-7-build-review/

Image

It weighs in at 14.9, built as follows:
    2013 Trek Madone 7.
    Project One, 56cm, H2 fit.
    My ENVE Smart SES 3.4 Carbon Clinchers.
    Bontrager R4 aero tires.
    My Quarq SRAM Red 53/39 powermeter crank, 172.5mm crank arms. Ceramic bearings in the BB.
    2013 SRAM Red drivetrain (brifters, dérailleurs (including Yaw front derailleur) and Red 11-28 cassette (with the new rubberbands to dampen sound).
    Bontrager’s proprietary brakes (including the under-BB rear brake).
    My Fizik Antares VS saddle.
    My Ergonova 3T LTD bars.
    Bontrager Race Lite XXX carbon stem.
    Bontrager Race Lite XXX seatpost cap.
    Internally routed cabling (see details below).
    Bontrager RXL bottle cages.
    Bontrager duo-trap integrated cadence/speed sensor.
    K-Edge alloy mount for my Garmin Edge 800.
    My iClic Carbon pedals.
    Lizard Skins bar tape.
    KMC DLC chain.

Any meaningful further weight loss to be had? I could drop a few grams by going to tubulars or dropping the K-Edge Garmin mount or Quarq, but neither of those options appeal to me. I suppose cutting back some housing (or upgrading to one of the lighter brands?) Some hardware changes and tuning? But I don't think there's anything really meaningful left on the table.

upside
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by upside

Nice bike.. how do you like it and what were you riding before.

by Weenie


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Zen Cyclery
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by Zen Cyclery

:unbelievable:

Wow. This is an absolutely gorgeous build. I had the chance to ride one of the new Madones recently and I was extremely impressed with the ride quality. I have never felt a bike that gets moving so quickly. I though the Kammtail and rear brake were all hype, but this bike is in a league of its own.

You sir, have my dream rig.

The only thing I would have done differently is go with the tubular 3.4s

Bregne
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:27 pm

by Bregne

Slam the stem, and get rid of the spacers!

Nice bike indeed, but the spacers, really.... they ruin everything to me :cry:

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elviento
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by elviento

If you want clinchers and powermeter, then there is not a whole lot left you can do, as this is a balanced build in terms of performance and style. Looks really good as it is.

Maybe some cables, nuts and bolts, etc. I doubt it makse sense to wander into the AX/THM/Schmolke land.
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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

Bregne wrote:Slam the stem, and get rid of the spacers!

Nice bike indeed, but the spacers, really.... they ruin everything to me :cry:


Please. shot up about slamming stems. yes, it is lighter. the only downside is that a bad fit give terrible performance.
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

bikewithnoname
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by bikewithnoname

Lovely build, you should add this to the Gallery.

You could lose 50-70gms switching to an Antares 00 from the VS
"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities." Oscar Wilde

Pegoretti Responsorium, Parlee Z5i, Donhou Commuter, 1946 MacLeans Featherweight L'Eroica!, 2x MTB 'dales

jimh
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Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 2:00 pm

by jimh

Bregne wrote:Slam the stem, and get rid of the spacers!



If you must .. do it in the other order !!! :P

it looks great - I've always like Trek's .. even if "he who should not be named" rode one for years

Bregne
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:27 pm

by Bregne

Frankie - B wrote:
Bregne wrote:Slam the stem, and get rid of the spacers!

Nice bike indeed, but the spacers, really.... they ruin everything to me :cry:


Please. shot up about slamming stems. yes, it is lighter. the only downside is that a bad fit give terrible performance.

yup, i definetly do not disagree with a performance position being preferable. And the solution to this problem must be:
Buy a bike in a size, where in order to get a nice fit you'll have to slam the stem (or with 0,5 cm as maximum).

Tug Boat
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by Tug Boat

Why? As a guy who just got a retul fit and raised my stem, I'm curious as to your generic answer of "buy a bike based on slamming the stem; fit be damned", or at least that general sentiment.

Bregne
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by Bregne

Tug Boat wrote:Why? As a guy who just got a retul fit and raised my stem, I'm curious as to your generic answer of "buy a bike based on slamming the stem; fit be damned", or at least that general sentiment.


Maybe for sportive and leasure riding, a stack of spacers is acceptable...

But how often do you really see the pro's riding with a stack height of 3-4 cm?? Never.... really....

Image
Vino's for instance.

Image
And Ryder's

Image
DZ's Cervelo

I'm just saying that for a racing set-up i slammed stem (or nearly slammed (0.5-1.0 cm) is preffered.

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Zen Cyclery
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by Zen Cyclery

I really like the look of a slammed stem too, but for us mere mortals, it just isn't practical. I've tried it before, and while I'm sure I was much more aero, it really hurt my lower back and made riding much less enjoyable.

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image12
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by image12

using pro riders for proper fitting is pointless. They 40+ hours a week so they're very flexible. Look at big Tom Boonen 6'4" running 140mm long stem and has a slammed stem.

Image

Bregne
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:27 pm

by Bregne

Seriously, do some sit ups and back bends, and your back will flexible enough - even for 4 hours+ rides. And if you have a bike with Quarq and Enve wheels i suppose you're going to race it proberly and not just sportive or leasure rides.
Last edited by Bregne on Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


bikewithnoname
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by bikewithnoname

Pretty sure the OP asked for weight loss suggestions for his bike, you guys wanna get a room and discuss your flexibility in private? :wink:
"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities." Oscar Wilde

Pegoretti Responsorium, Parlee Z5i, Donhou Commuter, 1946 MacLeans Featherweight L'Eroica!, 2x MTB 'dales

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