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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:22 pm
Posts: 21
I'm running Bontrager R3 TLRs - no problem so far in a couple of thousand km. I would second the braking feel, the actual braking is great, but definitely not the smoothest

Otherwise excellent wheels


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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:43 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2012 2:45 pm
Posts: 949
Location: Stockholm, The Arctic...
kulivontot wrote:
I think the lessons here are:
Pump less than 100PSI
Use tubeless if possible, preferably Hutchinson
Potentially watch out for schwalbe and gp4000's
Definitely use Stan's yellow tape, 2 layers


Please explain to me
why using 2 layers of Stans yellow tape would help?!


Last edited by PSM on Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm
Posts: 653
http://www.notubes.com/The-NoTubes-Adva ... ained.aspx


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:05 pm
Posts: 1
I use tubes and I struggled with my tire beads not seating properly for a while, but after a lot of trial and error I think I have some good answers to conclude this thread and supplement Kulivontot's post above. I only had one blow out (using 25mm GP4Ks), but my tires wouldn't seat properly and it felt like I was constantly riding super bumpy terrain as my tires hopped as they rotated due the tire being noticeably taller where the bead hadn't seated.

Here's what I've learned:
1. Use 10-12mm tape when you are USING TUBES, just wide enough to cover the spoke holes. When I use wider tapes, 16mm Velox or otherwise the tape won't stay centered and interferes with the bead's ability to seat properly.

2. Also be sure to massage the tires a bit once they are mounted onto the rims. When you finally get that last tight bit of your tire onto the rim the side you've been working has all the slack or extra diameter in one small spot. When you inflate your tire you will probably find that area where the bead won't properly seat is the area you last mounted on the rim. Evening out the tension in the bead will help it to seat properly.

Great wheels otherwise, I have mine mounted on a set of Dura-Ace HB/FH-9000 hubs with 28/32 spokes and they ride like a dream!

Good luck everybody and no more blowouts!

Edit: About me--175lbs, background in pro downhill mountain biking (so I descend like I'm racing moto GP), and I ride 25mm Continental GP4Ks almost 100% of the time.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 8:45 pm 
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in the industry
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 2:59 pm
Posts: 642
Location: Ruidoso, NM
dawsoner wrote:
Here's what I've learned:
1. Use 10-12mm tape when you are USING TUBES, just wide enough to cover the spoke holes. When I use wider tapes, 16mm Velox or otherwise the tape won't stay centered and interferes with the bead's ability to seat properly.


Stan says 2 layers of 21mm tape. I asked him. I've also had two tires blow off rims that did not have tape up to the bead socket.

According to Stan, it's the tension of the tire bead against the "shelf" that is primarily keeping the tire on. That little lip is not doing much, unlike normal "hook-bead" rims.

_________________
formerly rruff...


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