none of these lightweight skewers work with horizontal dropouts.

^^ Do you mean they don't clamp hard enough to stop the axle twisting in the dropout?

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r o y g b i v

Exactly. With horizontal dropouts your best bet is campy or shimano or something that has an equivalent clamping force.

Dura-Ace skewers are the best. Period. Easy to use and very secure.

I'm a big fan of shimano's skewers myself. On the road bike, which has semi-horizontal dropouts, the open-cam skewers I had didn't keep the wheel from sliding forward under hard accelerations.

On the mountain side of things, I had problems with my salsa skewer (one with relatively high clamping force) with my rear wheel coming out of the dropout when landing or crashing a particular way while navigating off-camber sections. On the mountain, it is possible to load the rear wheel pretty hard. Also, bear in mind, the clamping force listed is the vector normal to the plane of a dropout's face. This force times the coefficient of friction is what will keep your wheel in, which according to the internet is around .3 (for anodized aluminum i.e. hub/skewer head). This has been solved moving to an XTR rear skewer.

I use tune skyline . no issues.

I have been using "Control Tech Race" skewers (http://www.controltechbikes.com/english ... kewers.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) for 15 years (since 1997) on my Merlin mountain bike. Hubs are Chris King, and wheels are Mavic 517s. I have never had any problems. They have worked flawlessly. I have ridden that bike quite hard, hitting rocks big enough to give me a few flat spots on the rims. They have never come loose. They weigh just under 50 grams.

Last year I bought another set for my first road bike, a Serotta Ottrott with Mavic R-Sys SL wheels. Again they have been functioning perfectly. Two months ago, I replaced my road bike with a Storck Fascenario, with Reynolds 32 carbon tubular wheels on Tune hubs (front: Mig 70; rear: Mag 180). The spacing on the rear wheel is slightly larger with about 3 mm of the nut threads exposed, so I am going to replace them with the 135 mm rear skewer (spec'ed for MTB use) and go with the "Control Tech Race Light" skewers (http://www.controltechbikes.com/english ... kewers.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) which are a claimed weight of 26 grams. The difference between the "Control Tech Race Light" and the "Control Tech Race" skewers is the scandium nut and end cap. I'm confident they'll function as well as the "Race" skewers.

--Roland.

Campy skewers on Campy hubs/wheels, and Shimano skewers on Shimano hubs/wheels. They've got it right.

I have some wheels with DT Swiss 190 hubs and have the DT Swiss RWS ratcheting skewers on them (the steel version as I avoid Ti skewers completely). But though they seem to work well, they completely defeat the purpose of a "quick release" since you have to essentially ratchet (screw) them on. I prefer the standard cam open/close type much better for function.

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My Colnago C59
My Special Colnago EPQ

I am a big fan of Salsa Ti skewers.

Dura Ace skewers. Reliable, and clamp perfectly

Dura ace or other level shimano skewer. Look good, clamp firmly and reliably. Ideal in my opinion.

I use the one that comes with my Shimano RS80 wheelset, Ultegra. It should be much cheaper than DA and have similar functionality with small weight penalty.

Tune!

Campagnolo! Since 1927, the original.

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Cervelo R3, Campagnolo Chorus/Record mix... pastatrails.blogspot.com
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.

Hi,

ROTFLMAO. Brilliant.

These were driving the man "nuts" :



Ciao,

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Being a snob is an expensive hobby.