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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:01 pm
Posts: 38
I installed a new rear der. cable (something I have done numerous times in the past without issue), stretched it and adjusted the barrel adjuster. Despite numerous attempts to get it right there is still an issue. It shifts smoothly up and down in the stand. But when on the road the shifts from larger to smaller cogs sometimes are slow or get briefly hung up before dropping down.

Any suggestions?


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Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:17 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 11:43 am
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Most common problem is friction or a hanger out of alignment. Another very common issue (assuming chain / cassette aren't worn) is frames that use flexy hangers.

Check friction (particularly that housing is seated correctly and correct lengths), the under bb router (these wear and also accumulate crap) and hanger for alignment.

What is the frame, and what's the handlebar? Can you upload a picture?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:34 pm 
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I thought about the hanger issue but it wasn't shifting this way before the cable replacement. The frame is Orbea Orca and bars FSA.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:12 pm 
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This is the most common problem with 11 speed, particularly 2009 model. Changing the cable only isn't the best idea. Change both the cable and the housing and never reuse a cable, even a nearly new one. I've tried to reuse cables after a change of bars or shift lever and had bad results, even though the cable had seen little use.

I've had good luck using inexpensive Shimano 4mm housing, rather than buying pricey Campy cables sets. I do use genuine Campy cables.


Last edited by DaveS on Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:46 pm 
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Location: Central USA
Make sure that the liner isn't collapsed inward due to the action of the cutting plier or grinder used. It if is collapsed down open it up so the inner cable has no extra friction to overcome.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:50 pm 
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Regading the last post above, are you referring to the housing? I did not replace housing when changing the cable.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:05 pm 
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yep housing and it's "plastic" liner - I must have missed that you were still using the prior housing.

Any chance in pulling the new wire through that there might be a kink in the inner cable anywhere? When feeding it through the lever - making that nearly 90 degee bend there - I've accidently kinked an inner doing that - which in turn could now be rubbing inside a housing somewhere along the line.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:27 pm 
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I guess there is no way to know for sure without completely removing the cable. i can see that the portion downstream from the bars is good since it is exposed.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:22 am 
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If you have split housing on the frame there is no need to fully remove the inner cable - just free it from the cinch bolt on the rear der and let it slide back out about a foot to foot-and-a-half in distance - what was previously hidden in the houseing should now be exposed for a visual inspection.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:53 am 
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This is going to sound stupid. But did you make sure the wheel was in straight? I know, it sounds dumb, but you'd be amazed at how many times the simplest thing is the solution.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:20 am 
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Location: the Netherlands
Quote:
is frames that use flexy hangers.


Soo true, Campy and Cervelo for example are not the best combination to choose. Hanger is flimsy an lines (with the S3) have way too many bends to get the parts shift very well.
Tried several times but each time finding out the hard way that esp/eps probably is the best option for these framesets.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:43 pm 
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Location: UK
goldmine848 wrote:
I thought about the hanger issue but it wasn't shifting this way before the cable replacement.
Despite this, I'd still definitely check the alignment.

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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:43 pm 


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