Or even these, only 60g more but £90 less!
http://www.spincycleworks.com/servlet/t ... els/Detail" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I've made these my winter wheels and love them to bits.
They are on ebay too, still freepost to US at $566.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPIN-SPEED-META ... 20b9107409
Cheap(ish) light(ish) aero wheels w alloy brake track
Moderator: robbosmans
- chazzawoods
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:28 pm
No, I am not trying to sell you something.
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Just a few things:
1. Rim depth is only a part of a wheel being aero. Spoke count, spoke shape, hub flange width, rim shape(including width) all play in to wheel aerodynamics. Its part of the reason that its hard to say "this wheel is aero and that wheel isn't." Most wheels cover a spectrum based on choices made by the manufacturer. For instance, Easton's EA90TT wheel is fairly aero for a 32mm deep aluminum rim but it has a narrow front hub flange and few spokes; so while it does well on the aero spectrum some aren't thrilled with its ride qualities. Alternatively, the rim is narrow so maybe with a 20mm tire it could really shine. In addition, some wheels are aero at certain yaw angles.
1. b. In response to Kayrehn, there are a ton of manufacturers doing wide aero wheels besides Hed, Bontrager and Zipp. Rolf, Mavic, Shimano and even Gigantex ad Novatec. Wide rims definitely aren't the end all, be all to aerodynamics. It seems to me that for some reason some wheels do all right even without a perfectly mated tire width.
2. Don't ever get Ksyriums.
3. Aerodynamics do make a big difference, more so than weight in most situations. Its definitely worth consideration. The hard part is that for over 75% of products we don't know how they truly stack up in terms of aerodynamics. We can only make educated guesses. The easy part about weight is that we can just throw the parts on a scale and have an answer.
My final recommendation would be the following:
1. 20 hole front narrow soul kozak hub (95 grams)
2. rear 24 hole soul kozak hub (225 grams)
3. Kinlin XR380 rims (1100 grams total)
4. front sapim cx rays (100 grams)
5. rear sapim lasers (120 grams)
Total weight is 1640ish grams, 38mm deep rims, 20.5mm wide(so not super narrow), maybe ~$650
1. Rim depth is only a part of a wheel being aero. Spoke count, spoke shape, hub flange width, rim shape(including width) all play in to wheel aerodynamics. Its part of the reason that its hard to say "this wheel is aero and that wheel isn't." Most wheels cover a spectrum based on choices made by the manufacturer. For instance, Easton's EA90TT wheel is fairly aero for a 32mm deep aluminum rim but it has a narrow front hub flange and few spokes; so while it does well on the aero spectrum some aren't thrilled with its ride qualities. Alternatively, the rim is narrow so maybe with a 20mm tire it could really shine. In addition, some wheels are aero at certain yaw angles.
1. b. In response to Kayrehn, there are a ton of manufacturers doing wide aero wheels besides Hed, Bontrager and Zipp. Rolf, Mavic, Shimano and even Gigantex ad Novatec. Wide rims definitely aren't the end all, be all to aerodynamics. It seems to me that for some reason some wheels do all right even without a perfectly mated tire width.
2. Don't ever get Ksyriums.
3. Aerodynamics do make a big difference, more so than weight in most situations. Its definitely worth consideration. The hard part is that for over 75% of products we don't know how they truly stack up in terms of aerodynamics. We can only make educated guesses. The easy part about weight is that we can just throw the parts on a scale and have an answer.
My final recommendation would be the following:
1. 20 hole front narrow soul kozak hub (95 grams)
2. rear 24 hole soul kozak hub (225 grams)
3. Kinlin XR380 rims (1100 grams total)
4. front sapim cx rays (100 grams)
5. rear sapim lasers (120 grams)
Total weight is 1640ish grams, 38mm deep rims, 20.5mm wide(so not super narrow), maybe ~$650
Cool build - it looks like it could be perfect. I'll bring up the Fulcrum Quattros again, though, because they compare favorably to that build.
1710g (not a ton more)
35mm deep (not much shallower)
20.5mm wide (same)
$350 (much less)
I know there hasn't been much feedback yet, but just from the numbers they seem like a winner. If they suck (and they might), I'll probably just go with a deep alloy clincher build like the Kinlin or scour ads on ebay and slowtwitch for a killer deal.
1710g (not a ton more)
35mm deep (not much shallower)
20.5mm wide (same)
$350 (much less)
I know there hasn't been much feedback yet, but just from the numbers they seem like a winner. If they suck (and they might), I'll probably just go with a deep alloy clincher build like the Kinlin or scour ads on ebay and slowtwitch for a killer deal.
I don't know how hilly your rides and races in particular are, but what I know is that the advantages of a lighter wheel (lighter rim in particular) should not be disregarded in a race situation. It's just so much easier to react to moves, or make one of your own, if your wheel does not have 1700+g. If you are not the guy who spends a big chunk of the race-time in the wind, I would recommend to also consider something along the lines of a Kinlin XR-270 rim with light(ish) hubs.
Deeper alloy rims and carbon-alloy clinchers are just a heavy drag (fine for TT though). Light wheels also make training much more fun, by the way.
Deeper alloy rims and carbon-alloy clinchers are just a heavy drag (fine for TT though). Light wheels also make training much more fun, by the way.
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX
1) Go to bike hub store
2) Pick their strongest hubs -super wide front SL211 rear
3) Decide how many spoke you want front and rear
4) Get matching wide rims -C472
5) Decide how much you want to spend on spokes and nipples
6) Get somebody to build them (assuming BHS don't actually build wheels)
an option to 2)
2a) Find some nice hubs in your budget that are better than BHS
I can't be bothered doing the math but if you do a search for wide rims and the BHS C472 you will find real builds
2) Pick their strongest hubs -super wide front SL211 rear
3) Decide how many spoke you want front and rear
4) Get matching wide rims -C472
5) Decide how much you want to spend on spokes and nipples
6) Get somebody to build them (assuming BHS don't actually build wheels)
an option to 2)
2a) Find some nice hubs in your budget that are better than BHS
I can't be bothered doing the math but if you do a search for wide rims and the BHS C472 you will find real builds
Technical Director at www.TUFFcycle.com