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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:58 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:55 am
Posts: 574
I dug around a bit but was looking for something a bit more concentrated for information and I know we have a lot of guys who have done some amazing paint jobs on their bikes. Having trouble finding all the examples but feel free and post them if you find them.


Sanding your carbon frame:
Ideal process or grit?


Primer no primer? Layers, Coats and finishes?

If you wanted to do a matte finish of any kind how would you finish it? (im looking at you berk ;) )

Any input appreciated. Couple nice frames collecting dust that are begging for something different and I have some time.

Just ride ..

PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:04 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:55 am
Posts: 574
In particular I would love to know a good process to achieve something similar from the crumpton I saw at NAHBS this year ... where the satin red almost shown the pattern of the carbon beneath as well - it was super nice.


Just ride ..

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:02 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:23 am
Posts: 655
Location: so. cal.
that is such an ugly bike, but why do i find myself drawn to it?

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:08 am 

Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:55 am
Posts: 574
There is a better photo on crumptons page and in person it really is a great color - that picture may have been a pretty bad representation lol - it's not as nauseating in person unlike say .. maybe an olympic sl4 ;)

But hey im open to ideas for better or more interesting color choices.

Just looking for a fun project.

Just ride ..

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:16 pm 
Carbon Cowboy
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:20 pm
Posts: 1052
Location: Slovenia
Hi, just saw that you mentioned me :) so here I am...

Regarding the sanding - I prefer to sand it with wet sandpaper (first around P200 and then gradually till P600).

In short - first remove the clear coat and some of the paint just with around P200, then P300 or P400, P500 and at last P600. When sanding you can see/feel when you remove all the paint and hit the carbon. At that point of course don't sand the carbon anymore. If you won't work gradually there may be some scratches visible, if you know what I mean.

If you'll sand it with wet sandpaper under water it will be cleaner than dry sanding. If you'll sand it dry then make it outdoor if possible and of course protect your lungs (!). The dust is harmful - especially carbon dust..

For the finish - if possible use of course professional equipment :mrgreen: ..if not there are also some quite good spray colors out there. Just use a transparent primer in case that you won't paint it (just lacquer it), otherwise any primer for plastic should work ok if you want to paint it.

Don't know which finish has Nick used for his frame, but if he's reading that maybe he can share that information. I guess it's a special colour and a quite thin layer..

In short:
- sand the clear coat and paint with P200 and gradually till P600 (should be ok)
- primer & paint

For the painting - lacquering. Be patient (!) and spray it in thin coats. Between each coat wait for at least 5min and repeat that for 4-5 times. Yes, it may take a half hour only to spray it, but it's worth not to rush. After that you can continue with the clear coat. When it's dry (clear coat) you can sand it with P2000 and polish it. Just use a polish paste and polish it. It may again take some time, but it's worth to be patient.

For the finish - it depends from the clear coat you use, there are a lot of different options...if you use spray colors/clear coat, and if you want a matt finish you can also use a gloss clear coat and then just sand the surface with P2000 wet sandpaper.

And once again, if possible be patient. Also for the final steps rather wait a day or so that it's completely dry. It may feel dry when you touch it after a few hours, but don't rust because if you'll press a bit harder you'll leave a fingerprint on..

Hope that answer helps, but mention that it's just how I make it. Of course you can also make it different.

Berk PROTO-TYPE Composites - Handmade In Slovenia
Berk Composites

Last edited by Powerful Pete on Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Deleted quote. PP

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