HOT: Active* forum members generally gain 5% discount at starbike.com store!
Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Articles FAQ Contact About




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
hi,

I got a new bike (Cannondale Supersix 105 Compact Road Bike Replica (2012)) a few weeks ago and have put up 300km on it. I am very happy with the bike but have a sore neck and butt. The saddle will have to do for now but I wanted to raise the headset and give my neck a bit of a break.

Basically I got an Allen key (a right fit) and tried to loosen the headset and thus raise it. But it kind of cut the threads (on the headset bolt) inside and now it doesn't look so good.

You can see it looking a bit rung/rounded when you look straight down on it and I'm a bit annoyed with it. I did expect the bolt to be able to stand up against an Allen key.

What can I do with it ? It doesn't effect my riding but I wouldn't like to leave the bolt like that forever. The only thing I can think of is a replacement but would like to get some feedback ?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:50 pm 
Online
Shop Owner

Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1955
Location: NoVA/DC
Is the top of the top cap (black) rounded out? Or is it the 5mm allen headed bolt inside that is rounded out? If it's the inside one, i doubt it's that mangled, it is a steel bolt. Loosen the stem steerer pinch bolts first, as they add some constriction to the system.


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:50 pm 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Posts: 473
Replacing rounded bolts? :shock:

You crazy
Image

_________________
    2011 Cannondale Flash F1
      2010 Cannondale Caad9
        2000 Cannondale Caad 4 aero
          1999 Cannondale Caad1
            ???? Concorde SS


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:55 pm 
Online
Shop Owner

Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1955
Location: NoVA/DC
Hahaha! I love that photo! Huge f1 fan, here.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
I don't know how to describe it but it the inside bit where I fitted an Allen key. Its quite deep. It would hold the head set (handle bars) on to the bike frame and looks like the only thing that would make the headset go up.

I don't need the stem steerer pinch bolts loosened but they are soft and easy to loosen tighten. I had to put them on the bike when I assembled it out of the box.

its not too bad but looks like it should not have been attempted.

**edit here is a picture of it

Image

It is the same bike in the picture, its the hole above FSA, can you see it ? I think they call it FSA compression plug/cap assembly. I used an Allen key but maybe it required a hex key


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
quattrings wrote:
Replacing rounded bolts? :shock:

You crazy
Image


I don't understand. please help me out

ok, its not exactly the same bike in the picture but it has integration system fsa 6n.M written on it.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
i took some pictures with a 3mp camera
Image

Image

Image

Image

Its that part there that the threads on the inside are rounded/rung


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:27 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 9:11 am
Posts: 10
I can't see the pictures, but from your description it seems as if you've mistaken your threadless for a threaded stem. Releasing the top cap bolt a little won't allow you to raise the bars. You need to move the spacers above the stem (assuming you have some) below it.
If you don't know how to do it, go to a shop - you may ruin your headset bearings, fork, or both if you are not careful.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:39 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
snotrockets wrote:
I can't see the pictures, but from your description it seems as if you've mistaken your threadless for a threaded stem. Releasing the top cap bolt a little won't allow you to raise the bars. You need to move the spacers above the stem (assuming you have some) below it.
If you don't know how to do it, go to a shop - you may ruin your headset bearings, fork, or both if you are not careful.



are the pictures not displaying ? they should be ?

I think you are right, I mixed up the top of the stem threadless for threaded. Like you say loosening it didn't allow me to do anything and the parts below it were only starting to move around.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:45 pm
Posts: 111
Location: Bali, Indonesia
Hey There,
As the previous posters mentioned, this top cap is not to be confused with a quill stem system. Loosening this alone will not allow you to raise the bars. I would recommend taking the bike to your LBS as it sounds like you have already damaged the top cap.
FSA compression plugs come in a few designs. Some have a 6mm hex hole ("Allen Key") and some have a T-40 Torx hole. If you used a 5mm Allen key (which is the closest fit that a T40 hole will allow) you have probably rounded the inner part of the splines.
Using a T40 key, you will most likely be able to still remove the cap as the splines end in a taper.
If the cap will still not move, you (or, rather your LBS or a suitably equipped friend) will need to remove it using either an EZ Out tool or drill 2 small holes in it and use a pin spanner. Then replace the top cap and make sure you have its correct key for future adjustments.
Once you have the top cap removed you may find that flipping the stem gives you the bar height that you require .
FWIW the "FSA 6nm" script is the recommended torque setting for this preload cap.
I hope this helps, good luck!

Monkeyburger

_________________
...finding my inner Onoda-kun...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:47 am 
Online
Shop Owner

Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1955
Location: NoVA/DC
hex key and allen key and hex wrench and allen wrench, in this case, are synonymous.
the black cap itself takes a 6mm "allen" wrench. typically, the stem pinch bolts need to be loose before that will move.
look into the allen key hole in the top of the top cap with a flashlight. you will see another bolt inside, this time requiring a 5mm allen wrench to turn. loosen that bolt one full turn (loosen the stem pinch bolts if you havent already), and slide the entire "compression plug" unit out.
i'm sure youre gonna need instructions on how to reinstall/readjust the headset, but im gonna take a break now. good luck on part one.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:09 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
some very helpful posts there but I don't know much of the technical terms. I think I will get the €30 replacement and have to go to a LBS and get them to fit it for me. It shouldn't be rocket science to just take the top cap part off.

I had the bike out today for a 50k and it was sweet, my neck is still a bit sore but I am not going to try and adjust the head set.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: it's raining, it must be uk
for terminology this may help, look at the section "Conventional Threadless Headsets"

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... threadless

from the top...

- top cap, the bolt in the middle is only there to lightly preload the bearings before the stem is tightened, it does *not* secure anything
- usually at least one short spacer 3-5mm, but may be bigger or multiple spacers
- the stem, the stem clamp is what keeps the bars firmly attached to the steerer tube that runs down to the forks
- then zero or more spacers
- then the top of the headset
- then the frame

if the bars are too low, you have two options that don't involve new bits...

if there's one or more tall spacers above the stem, then one or more can be moved below the stem***, which will raise the bars - but usually you need at least one thin spacer between stem and top cap (to make things fit, you can buy spacers of various sizes)

***it's important that the correct amount of steerer tube is clamped by the stem, this is safety critical, if you do not know how it should be done, get someone to show you, or read up, or get the bike shop to do it

if the current stem angles down, it can be taken off, flipped 'upside down", and refitted, this too will raise the bars, how much depends on how angled the stem is

otherwise...

get a new stem with a steeper angle to give extra height

the nuclear option is replacing the forks, with the steerer not cut so low and with extra spacers - a new stem will be a *lot* cheaper


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:53 pm 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:41 pm
Posts: 7
the section "Conventional Threadless Headsets" is a help. The more about Cannondale the better as I can see which bit is what.

One company told me it was this part for £14 which is cheap enough.

Image

http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cann ... edge-kp017" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It looks and sounds right but have to ask about Allen keys since there seems to be 2 sizes to loosen it.

**edit


I was told from the company selling the KP017 part :

I have checked the Allen key sizes and the inner size to tighten into the steertube is a size 5 and the black top cap is a size 6. Hope this helps.

The KP017 is quite stiff to loosen and all I ever got it to do was raise it a height of a finger before checking out the rounded Allen key thread and putting it back flush. If I manage to take it out completely can I just put I in the replacement back in ?


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: jvanv8, shoemakerpom2010, simurs4, VamP, zander and 70 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. Cannondale SuperSix Evo 2014

in Road

ccparkhill

10

16588

Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:21 am

Boralb View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Upgrading Cannondale Supersix to Di2?

in Road

allenpg

3

665

Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:28 am

Posix1b View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Cervelo new R5 or Cannondale SuperSix Evo HiMOD

[ Go to page: 1, 2 ]

in Road

sedi

17

1276

Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:29 am

sedi View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. 2012 Cannondale EVO Hi-Mod top tube

[ Go to page: 1, 2 ]

in Road

252002

22

1667

Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:16 pm

Qman View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Cannondale Headset?

in Road

Bianchi10

11

810

Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:26 am

TheDarkInstall View the latest post


It is currently Wed Jul 30, 2014 12:29 pm

All times are UTC + 1 hour




Advertising   –  FAQ   –  Contact   –  Convert   –  About

© Weight Weenies 2000-2013
hosted by starbike.com


How to get rid of these ads? Just register!


Powered by phpBB