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 Post subject: SRAM Yaw Q RINGS Help
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:46 pm 

Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 427
I have searched and read the other threads but need some help.

I had successfully set up my SRAM Red Yaw 10 speed on my evo running SISL w 53/39 Q rings and 11-28 cassette. I had it tuned so it rubbed 39x12, 39 x11 and thats it. No rub big ring.

Today I shifted down rings and pedalled a little early and caused a bit of a shudder through the drivetrain (drive didn't stall but there was a fair bit of chainslap) anyways afterwards I noticed i was getting rub in the 39 /28 and 53 x 12 + 53 x 11.

Now this combo of rub seemed strange to me as you should either be rubbing inner or outermost gears but not both. I have had a look - the cable is fine (not fraying) I have tried to re-adjust my FD but can't get it to run smoothly. Best I can get is either the 39x28 rubbing or the 53x12 and 53x11 rubbing. I spent about 3 hours trying different combinations. I am wondering if i could have bent the FD hanger (braze on - evo) or the actual FD cage. Anyone have any similar problems?

Could someone who is running the yaw with q rings post a photo of their derailleur height versus tallest chainring tooth and their inner and outer limit bolts. I remember that my FD was set higher than the normal one penny height but not sure how much higher.

Any thoughts about what could be going on much appreciated.

Evo 5.63kg SL3 6.66 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick=";return false;" onclick=";return false;

 Post subject: SRAM Yaw Q RINGS Help
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:46 pm 

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:47 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 53
I will be very interested to hear responses to this thread as well.

I've been trying all season with little success to run Sram Red with the Yaw FD with a Rotor 3D+ crankset, both with Q-Rings and standard round rings. When I made the switch from Shimano to Sram, I had difficulty getting the FD to shift at all with the Q-rings. Took it to a local shop where I had purchased my Cervelo frameset and after they also had difficulty getting it to shift without rub they called Sram customer service and, supposedly, were told by the rep that Sram Yaw and Rotor Q-rings don't play well together. I switched to the Rotor round rings for most of the season, but still had rubbing issues and inconsistent shifting. Last week, I mounted my old Shimano 7900 FD and even with the Sram Red levers and with the round rings it works far better than the Sram FD ever did. I have not tried my "hybrid" setup yet with the Q-rings, but that's next. (Warning: Weight Weenie Blasphemy: despite the weight penalty of Shimano, I am almost certain to ditch SRAM Red for Shimano DA, either my old 7900 or a new groupset when I know what's going to be available in 2015.)

Sorry to be of no help, NiFTY, but I hope you find comfort in knowing you are not alone in your frustration.

Last edited by indywagon on Sun Sep 14, 2014 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:57 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:05 am
Posts: 77
Hi Nifty,

I'll second the sentiments above. I recently had a Sram Red Yaw FD installed on a new frame with Rotor Q Rings (Compact version). The bike mechanic also mentioned in his notes that the FD does not work well with the Q-Rings.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:13 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:10 pm
Posts: 16
I had similar last month - but with Shimano on regular rings.

It has been fine for a year+ since I changed all the cables. Ultegra 6600 FD with no issues. A month or so ago I dropped a couple of front shifts - going both ways - and since then I felt I was always fiddling with it but had rubbing at either extreme. Meant to have a look at it at the weekend then forgot. A few days later when just heading out I changed down to the inner ring and there was a clunk. The FD had kind of spread out so the outside flat part was sloping out. It shifted but only with some persuasion.

I replaced it with a 6700 a few days later and it feels great - no rub at all and much slicker shifting.

I'd definitely have a good look at the mech and hanger.

I'm left handed, if that matters.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:51 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:50 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Tampere | Finland
It is possible to make it work, however not easy, needs A LOT of patience and any changes has to be made in micro ( really micro ! ) steps.

When you achieve the point you're happy just do never ever touch it again :)

I made it work on 36-52 Qrings, Force 22 Yaw FD & Force 22 shifters on BMC GF01 frame.

Disclaimer nr 1 : MY "acceptable" means in lanuage of 99.9% cycling population "perfect" , my "perfect" means as before "unbelivable" or even "impossible" .

Perfect means : shift any time, at any situation being on any cog on rear faster than eye blink at any cadence and load.

It is achievable, but reserve weekend for it ;) I did it working almost perfect. Took whole day.

howto : set everything as Sram says about mounting and setting Yaw FD

+ exception nr 1 : place FD higher than they say ( incl Rotor instruction ) : distance which worked best for me was 4-5mm from the tallest tooth.

Exception 1a : know some make tallest teeth not so tall… ;) just equalize them to the nearest height - and also it helps a bit . I did it- and I can confirm little improvement.

+ exception nr 2: High limit of FD has to be bit more far than lever can LEAVE after shift ( pressed lever goes further than it stays after shift ) - and there's a thin thin line between "perfect" and " constant overshift" - moves of reg bolt is in 1/32 of turn increaments - it's like pressing lever FD overshift a bit, but FD stays bit back after depressing lever . Difference is in fraction of mm.

+ exception nr 3 : some frames are built "around Shimano" / BMC is good example here / - and it happens that FD braze is in the front of the line "center of BB - seat tube" - These frames has HUGE troubles to properly adjust FD for Qrings. Shim/spacer mounted between braze and FD solves problem. Point is to move FD cage backwards. If you can find (still) Rotor BLACK shims - they work perfect. Same applies to EPS/Di2 and Qrings / here better work shims with about 6degrees angle - move cage back and downwards /.

I know that it will work ( at the beginning ) on stand but not riding :) thats why I was riding on parking with hex in mouth adjusting and adjusting and adjusting…… until it was "almost perfect" .

Sram 22/force/red/ YAW ready levers pulls bit to much of cable than it is really needed / opposite to Shimano - here could be more pull, but it's not :( / so there's no need to set low limit very narrow to chain / ther's reason of built in catcher(!) / on small ring and biggest cog - leave some tiny space there. About high limit I already wrote . Next step is most difficult ( basically you start all from the beginning ) : cage rotation - if you still have troubles rotate cage : back of the cage OUTSIDE :

how to : lets say, you have all set up and still system won't work. Unscrew cable, and rotate cage to this point, that cage is parallel to chain ( chain is on smallest cog and big ring ) BEING PRESSED by hand for big ring position - at this point high limit has to be set up that chain is a little rubbing cage, just a little .

( by the way this rotation makes Shimano 6800/9000 almost "full22" without need of trimming ;) in real life it works for 10 cogs for each ring "perfectly" .

Then you have to start your "fight" with high limit again ( small overshift on pressed lever ) .

And when you finally get to the point you're happy, ask yourself : was it worth it ??? My answer was : NO! , and now I'm on Shimano / NoQ rings. My life is way easier now :)

Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:34 am 

Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 427
Ok so progress update.

I have adjusted the FD cage to be about 1mm above the tallest tooth (if that), the inner limit screws is all the way out. The one other adjustment i made was to let out the cage screw by a few turns, this gives more room at the tail. The inner cage is just rasping on the chain on small/big, this goes away when pedalling. Now when in the big ring the 53-11 is just rasping. Would not be able to hear it on the road, just in the stand.

I think i might be able to rotate it slightly more outboard and have it dead quiet but it would be such a small movement it would likely take ages to get just right. I have put a little glob of araldite on the cage junction where i slightly backed out the bolt to prevent it loosening further/flexing. Pretty happy, but not as perfect as i had before.

Evo 5.63kg SL3 6.66 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick=";return false;" onclick=";return false;

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:34 am 

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