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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:44 am
Posts: 211
So one of my Di2 Front mechs has become noisy, shifting a bit sluggish and has a developed a bit of an annoying clicking when auto-trimming.

Bearing in mind its had about 10,000miles over 18 months in the worst kind of weather the UK has experienced in a century! So its well used and I'm not too upset if it needs replacing.

A fix may be possible, but I don't want to destroy it trying, as its currently working and usable.

There's a couple screws that seem to hold the casing for the motor internals on, indicating it could be possible to open this up, clean/lube it, work out what that click is (sounds like the motor is just trying to over trim and hitting a stopper or dropping of the end of a thread and looping round again. Or could be that its all one common problem and a motor mounting point has broke off, which would explain all of the symptoms.

Anyone took one apart before?

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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:16 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:44 am
Posts: 211
Ok,

So temptation got the better of me.

First, 2 mini screws and the biggie out, allows the cover to be gently seperated from the main body...

Attachment:
1.jpg
1.jpg [ 107.76 KiB | Viewed 3122 times ]


Next, slide off the clip-rings from both ends of the "push-rod" (for want of a better name)

Attachment:
2.jpg
2.jpg [ 112.9 KiB | Viewed 3122 times ]



Now, the motor body can be rotated around the motor end of said push rod...

Attachment:
3.jpg
3.jpg [ 99.18 KiB | Viewed 3122 times ]


Here all my problems are revealed. The click is not a click, its a dry creak. This rod end hinge joint has become practically seized. The motor is having a devilish time trying to force the rod around this joint, its dry creaking when attempting micro-steps, and is causing the motor to whine under extra load.

Lubed up this joint (and the lower one).

Slid the clips back on, rotate the motor body back into place. Case back on, 3 screws in.

Back on the bike and it sounds like new :)

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Di2x2


Last edited by WeightySteve on Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 664
Location: Canada
Chapeau to you!!!

This should be a sticky!!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:24 am 
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Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 1:23 pm
Posts: 727
Location: uk
great work ..agree needs to be stickied

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:33 am
Posts: 50
you sir, have some serious b@11s


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1976
Location: NoVA/DC
i like how it took you all of an hour and one minute to post the first query, sit around waiting for nobody to reply, get antsy, take the der off your bike, take it apart, take pics, post all this new info. you and i must be related!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:19 pm
Posts: 557
OP has all the traits I like in a cyclist.

1) Mechanical aptitude.

2) Understanding that certain components need to be maintained and replaced.

3) Ability to document what they did to fix an issue so that others can do the same.

A+


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 4:59 am
Posts: 79
:thumbup:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:16 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Austin, Texas
Very good work!! Thanks for posting with pictures as I'm sure someone along the way will benefit.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:55 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1581
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Well done sir :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:02 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:25 am
Posts: 573
Location: Gold Coast Australia
Now forward to Shimano, and suggest they add a lube port to the external case...

Now do the rear mech... :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 1:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:22 am
Posts: 3684
Location: Washington, DC
Stickied, at users' requests, and given the courage of the OP and the success in the "operation".

Nice work!

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And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 1:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Seattle, Washington
I had the chrome peel/flack off a section of my Di2 front derailleur cage. Called the Shimano rep & they sent me an advanced replacement.

All Di2 products are designed not be serviced in any way (no lube or solvent cleaning recommended)

Shimano offers a 3 year warranty on all Dura Ace components.

You definitely got your monies worth in miles & conditions used. Plus did a great job of troubleshooting & fixing the problem

As the years add up & the warranty is long expired I would diffidently take mine apart to see what makes it “tick” if it gave me problems.

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We're talking about flying down a mountain with just a bit of carbon and two skinny tires between ass and asphalt................

2010 S Works SL3 Tarmac, 9070 Di2, Hutchinson RT1 Carbon Tubeless
2010 S Works Epic, Sram XX, Carbon Roval Control SL


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2012 1:36 am
Posts: 63
well done!

btw, how far you have to dig to reach the electronics? Or is it sealed in plastic?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am
Posts: 1725
That's something not many would venture into. Thanks for sharing. :thumbup:


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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:43 am 


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