Ceramic bearing replacements for LW StandardCs?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Sybarite
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by Sybarite

Tried searching, but Lightweight is too generic a word....

Are there aftermarket ceramic bearings for the LW Standard Cs? Both for the front and rear? And are they able to be installed without too many special tools?

I know the freehub body has a ceramic bearing version, are the other bearings non catridge?

by Weenie


maxxevv
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Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am

by maxxevv

Hmm .. perhaps you can ask CarbonSports on the servicing routine ? They may divulge a little information on how to disassemble the hubs.

As for size, I think CeramicSpeed as well as Enduro should have high grade bearings in both loose balls and cartridge form of the appropriate size.
Can't help you directly there as I've never toyed with the Standard C's before.

Let me know if you need help with 'disassembly', just drop me a mail . :wink:

NS
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by NS

Ask Legs11 IIRC he has experience of doing them, I had my old front LW done by bespoke as well.

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Giant DK
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by Giant DK

Ceramicspeed have all the bearings and tools you need.
Technical editor at Cykelmagasinet Denmark

My Simplon Pavo II

Sybarite
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by Sybarite

Thanks all, rear wheel is straighforward. Front I will have to fiddle with it.....

The Ceramicspeed website doesn't show any options for the front wheel of the LW, or mention it. Also not sure if the front wheel of the LW has changed at all? Still individual bearings?

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legs 11
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by legs 11

Hi Sybarite, not sure which model hubs you have on there, if it's the DT 240 or 190 it's easy and you just need to use the same method as standard DT hubs.
You do need to be a bit careful when fitting the bearings, I use a cup that fits the bearing and tap them in on the outer race, it's safer than fitting them on a hydraulic press with less risk of damaging the carbon hub body. :wink:
Front is supposedly a Carbonsport only service, it has cartridge bearings, but you can do it if you're confident about that sort of stuff. It's an alloy axle that is shimmed for the end float.
Remove the axle caps (they are just held on with an interferance fit, pressed on) I use a pair of smooth grips on either cap and just turn them to remove. They are often fitted with a spot of Loctite as well so once you start them moving they come off quite easily.
You may need to clean the edges of the caps up where you've gripped them to get them off, either polish them with some Alu polish or clean them up and paint them if you want to keep the gold colour.
You'll need to make a bed to lay the wheel on so you can remove the axle and bearings (a nice block of wood or nylon with a hole drilled in it works fine) put your axle over the hole and check the hub is flat against the block and tap out the axle/bearing using a peice of aluminium or a block of wood so as not to damage the axle end.
You'll have the axle with one bearing fixed to it and the other bearing in the hub now.
This part you need to be very careful with, as you need to tap ot the other bearing.
BE CAREFUL not to damage the hub as there is a small very thin lip that the bearing sits on!!
Just drift the bearing out in the centre rather than near the edge. :thumbup:
Keep a note of all the shim spacers that are under each bearing so you can refit them in the correct places when you reasemble the hub.
Clean everything, I run a peice of fine emery over all the parts so you know everything will fit together correctly.
Before assembling the hub I fit everything together again dry so you know you don't have to force anything, all the parts should just slot together with minimal friction, just snug enough to not have any play.
Fit the first bearing on the block with the hub well supported, I tap them in with a cup and small mallet.
Fit the end float shims in the correct order and fit the axle ( a tiny spot of loctite on th axle is a good idea, but we're talking about a tiny spot rather than a big glob of it that could contaminate the bearing!
Turn the wheel over and sit it on the block with a hole in it, and drop the shims on the axle, fit the new bearing and gently tap in the bearing.
Refit the end caps with a drop of Loctite, and leave the wheel in a fork with the Quick release tightened to let the Loctite dry.
Job done! :D
You may have a tiny bit of play? I've seen brand new wheels that come like this so don't be too alarmed! :D
All you need to do is either fit another spacer shim under the bearing....or.....tap the bearings in a little more as they may not be seated enough. :thumbup:
The secret to doing this job is working on the fit of all the parts so it'll all go together easily, that also means if you have a bit of play on the endfloat you can pull it apart again without damaging the bearings.
Be warned, it's not a fantastic or complicated design, and can be severely corroded internally. :wink:
I wouldn't bother with ceramic speeds as you'll have to buy the front bearings from a bearing supplier anyway, so you may as well get a whole set from them both front and rear.
Try these guys....http://www.vxb.com/ballbearings.html?gc ... 4wodExKZ1Q
I have all the bearing codes in the workshop if you want them? :thumbup:

Hope this helps you out anyway, and let me know if you have any problems, I may be able to help?
Cheers, Rob.
Pedalling Law Student.

Sybarite
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by Sybarite

Thanks Rob! Exactly the tips I was looking for.....CS is to far away and I'll take chances with the warranty. Yes, the rear is supposed to be a 190, but not ceramic. Front was the tricky bit until I read this.

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legs 11
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by legs 11

No worries Sybarite, and.....I just thought, the hole in your block of wood needs to be big enough to take the bearing that will be at the bottom when you tap out the axle with the underneath bearing attached to it. :wink:
I think it was about 22mm, I used a spade drill bit (the sort of drill you use to make the lock holes in a domestic door?
Lightweight front bearings are 8609 2RS, and the rear will be either 240 or 190 DT standard bearings.
The 240 are two 6902 2RS for the hub and two 6802 2RS for the freehub body.
If it's definitely a 190 in there though they are different for the freehub. Haven't got the bearing numbers in the data book here, but you should be able to get hold of them without too much hassle.
Edit.....found the 190s hub bearing sizes in my technical notebook here, its one 3803 2RS and one 6902 2RS.
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Rob.
Pedalling Law Student.

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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

I don't know if your wheels already have them, but while you are at it, get the 36 step star ratchets from DT as well. 10 grams of weightsavings!
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

NS
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Location: Manchester, UK

by NS

Sybarite wrote:Thanks Rob! Exactly the tips I was looking for.....CS is to far away and I'll take chances with the warranty. Yes, the rear is supposed to be a 190, but not ceramic. Front was the tricky bit until I read this.



You are welcome :roll:

duzza
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by duzza

You'll need to make a bed to lay the wheel on so you can remove the axle and bearings (a nice block of wood or nylon with a hole drilled in it works fine) put your axle over the hole and check the hub is flat against the block and tap out the axle/bearing using a peice of aluminium or a block of wood so as not to damage the axle end.
You'll have the axle with one bearing fixed to it and the other bearing in the hub now.



hi, i am trying to change the front bearings in my LW standard III wheels but this is the part where i get stuck, i have tapped the axle with a mallet but it won't budge, any advice?

by Weenie


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