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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:38 am 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
r_mutt wrote:
aren't the Stan's known to be flexi-flyers?


For its weight it is plenty stiff. The new ones have more material at the spoke bed and weigh ~390g.

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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:38 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:42 am 
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villahidalgo wrote:
could you please describe your Alpha 340 build? I'm interested in a semi-cheap wheel and I weigh about the same. Thanks.


You aren't going to get below 1200g easily anymore. The BHS hubs are the cheap way to go and the Tune hubs would be a lighter and reasonable upgrade.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:47 am 
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Location: Melbourne
Stans with Dash hubs and CXRay, 1065g in 18/20, still under 1100 for 20/24 and about $1000
Add $120 for ceramic bearings which drop some grams too.
Weight limit is 80
I tested some a as a 85-90 kg sprinter (because I could) and they would be fine if you are the smooth type, but not for me (I also know 65kg mashers,) a lot of that is personal style,


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 5:39 am 
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I'm also researching this exact topic right now!

Been looking at Fulcrum Ltd comp 1's, Shimano C24's, and Easton EA90 SLX, all ~1400grms.

Love the look of the F1's and the weight of the C24's but spoke count and flex is my issue. The SLX seem to fit the bill 20/24, But thought I might be able to do better (hubs - rims) with a hand built set for $750AUD ($900 - $1000USD). Then again no idea what those manufacturers use for parts, probably the same components I'd choose for the hand built set!

Being max 85kgs but around 83kgs (187lbs), with sprinter legs, my current ride Easton EA90 SL's 24/28 and have been bomb proof for 4 years.

Any suggestions from riders in that weight bracket with some ideas on hand builts for my needs in that price range (and from where) greatly appreciated. Lisitng of all parts would be a bonus! Only thing that kills is shipping to AUS.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:02 am 
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Location: Los Angeles / Glendale, California
WMW wrote:
villahidalgo wrote:
could you please describe your Alpha 340 build? I'm interested in a semi-cheap wheel and I weigh about the same. Thanks.


You aren't going to get below 1200g easily anymore. The BHS hubs are the cheap way to go and the Tune hubs would be a lighter and reasonable upgrade.


Yep, pretty much. Stans recently increased the weight of their rims slightly.
My build is basically BHS hubs (66g and 211g rear I think...), CXRay, Alu nipples throughout, Alpha 30's... yep... Just a spit under 1200g's of happiness. $500 all in, including a professional build? I'm pleased.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:54 am 
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Broid wrote:
Madfiber CC's 1300g and no weight limit

https://madfiber.com/clincher" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


+1

I think they are coming in just under 1300g typically.

Also, quite deep section rim so much more aero than others mention here.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:46 am 
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If it's piece of mind you require on the Marmotte, stick to ali rims. Done it twice and the first descent, the Glandon, is often carnage. They no longer time that part of the ride now, as there are always accidents.
In the dry carbon rims would be fine but they are mountains with changeable weather


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:17 am 
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Posts: 24
I have stans 340s 20/24
dt swiss aerolights
White industrie black h2/h3 campagnolo
these are 1260g
Velocity veloplugs
Built cheap and ride bloody nice.
Im only 68kg


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 1:11 pm 
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I've got stans 340, DT revs and sokin hubs off ebay, came to £200 for the wheels, didn't have scales at the time but with KCNC QR's, conti supersonic tubes and ultremo ZX tyres they were about 1730g I think which makes the wheels about 1230g? There were lighter hubs branded Dati but they were baout £60 more expensive.

I'm ~200lb and didn't like them initialy but I'm beginign to suspect it might be my building as I just can't seem to get the tension right which makes them flexy as hell. Next time I'd sacrifice some weight for a stiffer rim, if only to help with the building which has so far taken 3 evenings (one initial build, an evening trying to get the right after the first few rides, then another dismanteling them and re-building them completely to try and get them to come up true and with even tension. At the moment they just feel really sluggish.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:06 pm 
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tweets wrote:
If it's piece of mind you require on the Marmotte, stick to ali rims. Done it twice and the first descent, the Glandon, is often carnage. They no longer time that part of the ride now, as there are always accidents.
In the dry carbon rims would be fine but they are mountains with changeable weather

:thumbup:

I would go for a bombproof set. Campa or DT swiss prebuilt or Ambrosio/Mavic/DT rims on Dura-ace/Record/Dt Swiss hubs

Consider that most weight gain is at the hub and thus doesn't matter much in the rotational weight gain.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:57 pm 
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Location: Mountain View, California
One thing to consider if you are buying a wheelset now is if you go with drama/shimano freehub. Is the freehub easily or even possible to adapt to the new shimano 11spd. 11spd looks to be slated for dura-ace line. Eventually shimano will revise the ultegra and 105 line up with 11 spd.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:22 am 
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notsoswift wrote:
Stans with Dash hubs and CXRay, 1065g in 18/20, still under 1100 for 20/24 and about $1000
Add $120 for ceramic bearings which drop some grams too.
Weight limit is 80
I tested some a as a 85-90 kg sprinter (because I could) and they would be fine if you are the smooth type, but not for me (I also know 65kg mashers,) a lot of that is personal style,



I think an 18/20 build on Stans rims would be dangerous.

I had a 20/24 set built on Extralite hubs and at my weight (75kg) they were almost impossible to get the tension right and to be honest, any gain in lack of weight climbing was more than negitively offset by sketchy handling on descents. Maybe the new, heavier 340 is better, but even at Prefs weight, my experiance would indicate a 20/24 bulid min. If I tried again I would definately go 24/28.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:29 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
milroy wrote:

I think an 18/20 build on Stans rims would be dangerous.

I had a 20/24 set built on Extralite hubs and at my weight (75kg) they were almost impossible to get the tension right and to be honest, any gain in lack of weight climbing was more than negitively offset by sketchy handling on descents. Maybe the new, heavier 340 is better, but even at Prefs weight, my experiance would indicate a 20/24 bulid min. If I tried again I would definately go 24/28.


Absolutely agree. The 340 can still feel soft even in a 24/28 hole count and an 18/20 would be way to low and would more than likely cause premature wear and breakage of spokes. Don't ever skimp on hole count, especially on such a soft hoop.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:03 am 
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Posts: 359
Location: Australia
I have
Edge/Enve 45s
Tune Mig45 & Mag150
CX-Ray 20/24
veloplugs

Total: 1228g

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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:03 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:26 pm 
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Posts: 176
Location: Melbourne
Zen Cyclery wrote:
milroy wrote:

I think an 18/20 build on Stans rims would be dangerous.

I had a 20/24 set built on Extralite hubs and at my weight (75kg) they were almost impossible to get the tension right and to be honest, any gain in lack of weight climbing was more than negitively offset by sketchy handling on descents. Maybe the new, heavier 340 is better, but even at Prefs weight, my experiance would indicate a 20/24 bulid min. If I tried again I would definately go 24/28.


Absolutely agree. The 340 can still feel soft even in a 24/28 hole count and an 18/20 would be way to low and would more than likely cause premature wear and breakage of spokes. Don't ever skimp on hole count, especially on such a soft hoop.


Yeah I was suggesting the 20/24 which is fine for smooth light weights. The bloke with the 18/20 is about 70, though pretty tall he is a nice spinner keeps the bike pretty straight enem out of the saddle.
Someone like me can make the brakes rub on both side when I give it some stick though


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