Just installed a P2M Rotor 3D+ BB30 crankset on my Orbea, and have removed any play. When I tighten it to the required torque it seems that the cranks are spinning quite tight, and stop after about 1 turn. Is it just in the beginning to break in the cranks, or should I loosen the cranks?

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I like Spanish bikes and cars. Riding an Orbea Orca and a Seat Ibiza.

Take it out, Lube heavily and u should losen1/4 to 1/3 turns after feeling the crank doesn't move freely. Go out for a spin and adjust again. After a few rides should break in

Just the break in i think, my agilis had it, go riding and after a few 100k feel again..

Confused. You should torque crank bolt first then remove play with adjustment, not the other way around.

Alright, thanks for the advice. Had it set up, but it seems like the crankbolt is coming loose. Very weird, and very annoying as it creates play and makes it nearly impossible to ride with.

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I like Spanish bikes and cars. Riding an Orbea Orca and a Seat Ibiza.

To stop the crankbolt coming loose,
1. back off the lock ring, then
2. tighten the crank bolt. (Use a torque wrench - it has to be very tight, but you need to know exactly!)
3. last, adjust the lock ring. If the crank still comes loose then contact Rotor.

New bearings are often tight, but if the lock ring is adjusted before the crank bolt is tightened (3 before 2), for sure there is axial overload on the bearings. This will add a lot of bearing friction, which would give the slow crank results you have.

P.S. Make sure the steel crank remover ring (a Shimano cassette tool fits in it) is positioned correctly in the crank. It should be installed in the crank before the bolt, and the planar face must be in the crank, with the open cup side surrounding the bolt head. Use lots of grease between every joint.

Alright, just to get things clear to me The lockring is what Rotor calls pre-load nut - the ring that's on the non-driveside. The crankbolt is the red bolt on the driveside.

The weird thing is that my preload nut is turned all the way out and there's no play whatsoever.

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I like Spanish bikes and cars. Riding an Orbea Orca and a Seat Ibiza.

Got a friendly PM from Mario Jr. who asked me to contact him tomorrow - thanks man!

But I still looked at my crank again because there was something that I couldn't quite make out. You see, I took the bike to my local shop who told me that I needed to put in the 1 mm spacer that was provided with the crankset. And so they did. When I took the bike out for a spin the right crankarm came loose so I had to tighten it while riding. Well, when I just looked at my crank now I only needed to remove the crankbolt and the crankarm came off - which it should. So something was definately wrong. I read the manual again, and couldn't find the part about the 1 mm spacer. So I removed it, installed the crankset again and loosened the crankbolt. This time the crankarm didn't come off Seems like the shop looked at the BBright manual and not the BB30.

The crank's a bit tight now, but not too much. I can get 1-1,5 rotations if I spin it. I'll give it a try and see if it fixed it.

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I like Spanish bikes and cars. Riding an Orbea Orca and a Seat Ibiza.

I just assemble rotor 3d plus mtb double crank to my frame.
and I obey the instruction manual strictly，
my mtb frame bb width is 73mm，
for non-drive side,there is 11.5mm spacer+ one preload nut+one very thin washer
for drive side,there is 11.5mm spacer+5.5mm spacer

after step4, tight the RED bolt(8mm allen) by using 35Nm torque in drive side
I found it is impossible to go on for step5,

First, there is no lateral play when step4 complete,so is that necessary to tight preload nut in non-drive side?

Second, my preload nut has already pressed to the non-drive side crank arm, can't turn it clockwise by human hand. so the result is I can't tight the pinch bolt in preload nut,because the bolt is not long enough.

I just want to echo the use plenty of grease already mentioned, especially on the DS bolt.
I had to destroy a 3D+ crankset in order to salvage a frame and I had already removed the bolt in order to remove the DS crank arm. Took the removal part out and put the bolt back on and it went in my hand about 3/4 of the way and just stopped. It siezed so bad it was not removable and trust me I tried everything. Only thing different this time then any other time I had taken DS off was time, it had been a while since I last disassembled the crank.

Sorry for activating an old thread but I have to ask. Just go my p2m with rotor3d+ cranks. And I installed the crank with this spacer kit



BUT without the small spacer. I torqued the crank to to the specs. But I had some play. I didn't pay to much attention to the pre-load adjuster on the non-drive side. Instead I took the crankset appart and reinstalled it with all the spacers with the kit. And I got no play, but the pre-load adjuster on the non-drive side (which i turned as far bak as possible before installing the crank) cant be turned now. Did I install the crank correctly?