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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:08 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:04 am
Posts: 114
I'm trying to remove a fork from a steel track frame with standard type threaded headset. I am holding the bottom nut above the headtube with a headset spanner, and trying to remove the top locknut with a large strong headset wrench. both are 32mm and fit the nuts.

No luck.

Feels like the top lock nut is stuck to the steel fork. It doesn't seem damaged as the headset and steering work fine. Im afraid to grab the fork from underneath the headtube to apply more pressure as I don't want bend the fork.

Lock nut is aluminum and fork is steel.

Any suggestions?


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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:08 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:25 am
Posts: 1071
Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
JWolf wrote:
Im afraid to grab the fork from underneath the headtube to apply more pressure as I don't want bend the fork.


I think that's what you do when you have tried to undo the locknut with two wrenches. Plenty of WD40 might, of course, eventually help free the locknut.

A standard open-ended headset wrench is not the best thing for a locknut. You get proper locknut wrenches which provide more all-round grip, and your local bike mechanic might have one of these.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:47 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1927
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Plusgas is alot better than WD-40. Why even let WD-40 with 100ft of a bike.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Posts: 477
for seized bolts you could:

-Spray with penetrating oil (wd40 is not a good on at that, use PB blaster)
-"scare" it free, by tapping it
-using "reverse psychology", sometimes a bolt will go tighter and then free itself up
-use heat
-use ammonia when corrosion is the possible culprit

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  • 2010 Cannondale Caad9
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:19 pm
Posts: 195
Good ol' Galvanic corrosion. It used to be quite common during the stell frame/ alloy seatpost era.
If you don't require the headset, use heat. Mind you, if it's corroded in place, the headset's likely toast anyways. So yeah, heat. Keep in mind if you're using a torch to be aware of any previous chemicals you might have already poured into it. You might not like the end result if not.


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Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:18 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 5:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:04 am
Posts: 114
Thanks all. Sprayed it with some lube and bought a good park wrench and spanner and got it off finally.


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